Hello! First Post

JimMW

autoxer
Hello All!

My father and I picked up an x1/9 over the winter and I’ve been lurking on this site for the past couple months gathering info while we work on it. I finally decided to make an account and introduce myself.

The car is a carbureted 1980 x1/9. We bought it to use as an autocross toy during the summer. My dad saw one at an event last year and fell in love, he came across ours over the winter and we decided to go halves on everything. We don’t expect to be overly competitive (we both only have one season of experience) and we’re just going to run it stock for a bit until the car is all sorted. We’d like to put antique tags on it too, to get a little more use (fun) out of it.

The car has some rust in the [from what I’ve seen] normal areas, but otherwise only two minor dents. So far we’ve replaced a number of standard tune-up items and are working at getting it running smoothly. We’re both fairly capable with mechanical work - him much more so than I - but we’re also new to the car so we’re learning as we go.

There is a challenge we’re dealing with that I was hoping someone might be able offer some advice on. I’ll continue to dig around online and am sure I’ll find more info on here, but if anything jumps to mind please feel free to chime in. If not, I won’t be offended!

When accelerating the car sputters and has moments of engine hesitation with gaps of power loss. My dad thinks it’s a gas starvation issue and I thought it was vacuum, but after some tinkering and replacing filters and hoses the problem persists. I’m hoping it’s just a tuning issue, but we’re still learning our way. Also, incase it matters, the carb was supposedly recently rebuilt. Could anyone offer any ideas on what you’d look for?

Otherwise we might need a new radiator (or a recore done), the rear suspension has an insane amount of camber, and the car requires a few key turns when starting that yield only clicks before it’ll start turning over. I haven’t looked at the suspension yet, but I’m guessing some components are worn out or the adjustment has been toyed with. We’re thinking the clicking is the starter or electrical, either we should be able to track down. Anything else needed is more minor in nature.

This is all I have for pictures for now since we’re still working on it and haven’t cleaned it up yet. Maybe I’ll add another post in a few weeks after the first AX with some better pics.
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Okay, thanks for reading and I’ll look forward to being a part of this site. If anyone can offer any suggestions on the issue above I’d appreciate it, but I’m sure we’ll eventually find what’s causing it.

I also want to pay you a compliment: I’ve visited many forums for many different types of cars and this group is hands down the friendliest and most helpful I’ve seen. Everyone here truly seems conscientious and reasonable in how they treat others. :)

Best Regards,
Jim
 
welcome to the madhouse!

Always a pleasure to have one more along for the ride!

Thanks for joining :clap: :thumbsup: :pimp:

What is that purple thing under the cover alongside? Mopar?? :)
 
Hello Mac, thanks for the welcome!

Good eye, the purple car is one of my dad's toys, a 1970 Cuda. He's a big Mopar guy. It has a 440 6-pack with a 4 speed, it's quite a car.
 
Uh no... another Jim W... :wink2:

Hmmm... and my first X was a carb'd '80. So what are the other things under the tarps in your pics?

Welcome aboard..
 
Welcome Jim

Glad to have you here with us. :)

When checking for vacuum leaks, did you pay attention to the base of the carb? Try spraying some some WD40 around the base while the engine is running and see if you here any changes in the engine as you spray. Since the carb was just rebuilt, it may be that it did not get put back on perfectly.

Also check for crud in the carb. It only takes tiny rust/dirt particles floating the fuel to clog the jets.

Again, welcome. And I am sure folks will be along shortly with even better ideas.
 
the big question

on the Cuda though is, does it have the pistol grip shifter and (gasp!) Rallye dash?? :eek:mg:

My uncle (also named Jim, we just can't get enough Jims here can we?) is also a huge late-60s/early-70s Mopar nut so they are another of my automotive soft spots as well. Your shop looks like a place I could happily spend lots of time

Once more welcome a-board! :guitar:
 
Hello and thank you to both Jim's! It does seem to be a popular name here.

JimD: I can't say that we've payed any extra attention to the base of the carb. Thank you for the suggestions, we'll have to try that. One of the next things we were considering was cleaning it so we'll have to do so and check out the needles.

Jim W: The other cars: There's the purple Cuda, a red 1964.5 Barracuda, and way back in the corner is late 50's (I think 57?) Plymouth Fury. It's a parts car for one my old man is restoring. On the other side, not pictured, are a 99 Vette and a 74 Vette. All are his, he's a pretty big muscle car guy incase you can't tell. ;) The Fiat is a bit of a departure.

Mac: It does indeed have the pistol grip shifter but I'm not sure about the dash. The picture is in a barn he actually rents from a relative for storing the cars, we actually do most of the work in his garage which is a much smaller and more modest affair. Next time you're in central PA feel free to swing by, he's always happy to show them for to a fellow Mopar lover.
 
Welcome JimMW

Looks like your off to a great start.
I'm certain that Tony "Black Tooth" Natoli will love your wheels. :)

Regarding your camber, make sure your struts aren't "flat" (worn, deflated) and that your springs weren't cut. If they were, consider a camber kit to get things back in line. I believe Matt Brannon (Midwest Bayless) has them in stock.

Regarding engine sputter,
Jim D. has already mentioned the carb and vacuum lines as suspect, so along that line I'm going to mention the distributor. If you can, mark it's position and remove it... Check that there is no fuel contaminants in the advance bellows (for lack of a better name). I found one with a mix of fuel and oil in one. Also check to make sure your mechanical advance is working properly. More information on that can be found HERE: (there's more about ignitions in general but the mechanics of the dizzy is covered) A bad advance can also cause what you describe.

Regarding the "tick" sound I'm not sure, but to venture a guess, check to make sure your flywheel guard isn't touching the flywheel. I "created" that problem when I serviced my transmission. (so ask me how I know! Ha!)

Good luck with the project and keep us posted with your progress.
 
Regarding starter clicks

While it's possible you have a bad keyswitch or starter solenoid, there are two common problems to check first.

One, the solenoid wire is attached to the starter with a spade terminal. It's probably not holding all that well anymore. If it pulls off the terminal easily squeeze it closed slightly and put it back on, or put a new one on the wire.

Second, the connection from the keyswitch tends to go bad and burn. Lower the steering column (easy to do) and look for a browned/blackened connection. If so, splice around it and do the "brown wire mod" you'll find referenced elsewhere on this forum.

Good luck!
 
Thank You!

Thank you all for the warm welcome and the great advice! I'll check out the carb, manual advance, camber and ticking tips that have been suggested - this sounds like some great info. I'll be sure to let you know what we come up with.

I'll try to share pictures, too, as we work on it. Uhm... we're not exactly perfectionists and at best I'm afraid the car will never be much to look at or done up properly, so I'm naturally a little hesitant to show many to avoid humiliating myself. Everyone seems pretty accepting though, so we'll see.

I also had a general question about the forum: Is it preferred that a member keep a running thread of their car and questions, or is it better to post individual questions or major updates? I'm not sure how active I'll be at posting, but don't want to be annoying about it while still generating responses...

Thanks again!
 
no wrong way

On Xweb the going philosophy seems to be "there's no wrong way to eat a Reese's" or simply "to each their own". We have buildup threads in here that run on for pages and pages and pages, and others who just post and post and post. I don't think it really matters either way as long as folks are having fun :) (it used to be much harder in our old days but we actually have a fairly decent search engine now!)
 
ps...

... no offense intended to our "original" search engine - also named Jim! :laugh:

(as Papa Tony would say, -"Ha!") ;)
 
Welcome Neighbor!

JimMW, I'm in the Philly area, but my daughter goes to school in Lancaster at Franklin & Marshall so I'm there often. I also have a carbed 1980 X, but I've updated it with alot of European pieces. If the carb is still giving you fits, I still have the original carb off mine that was working very well that you're welcome to have. However, you can probably fix yours by some of the methods already mentioned (carb cleaned, vacuum leaks checked/eliminated, dist advance checked/repaired). I'll let you know the next time I'm in Lancaster and might be able to stop by and help.
Dave
 
Oh Noooo... Not another Jim!

That's almost as bad as another Medium Blue X1/9!

Well, since yur old man is a MOPAR fanatic... I'll give ya a break! I owned a 70 Duster 340 back in the day... NEW! I was a '65 Cuda Hi Performance 273 that turned me on to these "orphans"!!!

As for your '80, its essentially a leftover '79 and I can almost guarantee that your stumblin' is a dirty carb.

1. Need to go here:

http://xwebforums.com/wiki/images/6/67/34DMTR.pdf

Remove the center brass tubes/rods and keep them in order... place on a clean white linen and see the specs... usually crud from old fuel lines AFTER the filters. Boil out the carb or replace it with a DMTR 32 or 34, yours is probably a 28/32 which is pretty anemic. Find the number on BASE facing the valve cover...

Find more on Best of Wiki in index.

2. Replace all the fuel lines... and you can piece part all this stuff, but you'll chase this problem for months to come.

3. I had problems clogging new filters within a month or so... so I added TWO plastic see-thru filters in parallel, one ABOVE the other so the bottom one will clog first, giving me a second chance. If you race, you may need metal filters... This problem will eventually go away...

4. Starter clicks... Do the Brown Wire Mod (BWM) FIRSTas it fixes MANY things... then look into the other suggestions.

There... that'll keep ya busy for a while... come back and let us know what ya find...

As for your wheels, I HATED mine as EVERYONE had them back in the day... Now... with the proper tires, a little elbow grease and some modded center caps... I LOVE them!

Welcome to the dark side...
 
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Bienvenue

Jim Bienvenue (Welcome),
I’m sure with time, persevering and most important tools “small hands” you will bring back that red X to life.
 
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