Help Please....Carburetor change out and partial de-smog

[JLo]

First, Just acquired my 2nd x 1/9. First was a 1982 I owned at age 16. In an attempt to relive my youth I've acquired a 1980 single owner barn find. Been sitting around 28 years without running so I have my work ahead of me.

Second, I am a newbie so apologize if I don't follow etiquette. I will learn.

I have read several threads on the above topic on here and other forums and have compiled what I think is correct into this post and I am hoping for folks to confirm my accuracy and answer some more questions before I plunge into completing this project. And hopefully this (probably way too) detailed thread can help someone else who is visual like me. I hope there is no word count. Went to get my carb rebuilt and it was suggested I consider a swap and atleast partial de-smog. So here I Am. Here it goes.....

• Swapping out carburetors: 28/30 DHTA 7/280 J9 with 32 DATRA12 100 F6
• Removed EGC valve from cylinder head, two hoses, smog air pump/belt/bracket. Plugged hole. Any repercussions to removing smog air pump?

• Removed another “thing” from cylinder head above spark plug 3 (had several wires attached to it). Coolant escaped. Plugged and left wires tucked into firewall. Assume these do not need removed?

This photo identifies the location of the plugs.

• Began hooking up new carb after reading numerous posts on subject and under assumption that when done I will have the following 7 lines that are hooked up and the rest are scrapped:
  1. Fuel line from filter/pump/tank
  2. Fuel line going back to gas tank
  3. 2 lines going to charcoal canister
  4. Vacuum line going to “dizzy” (only took a quick google search to learn that is code for distributor)
  5. 2 water lines going to automatic choke
• Unfortunately discovered this carb has an 8th port requiring some sort of connection unknown to me. And I have a series of other questions and would like confirmation I am making the correct reconnections/deconnections. So again, here it goes....
• #1 & #2 lines: self- explanatory but including pic to be comprehensive:

• # 3 lines: Two lines from charcoal canister: there is a line coming from the bottom (manual showed it was the side) and one from the top that had gone to the previous carb and route to the new carb as follows. Correct?

• #4 line: vacuum line to dizzy. On old carb it was on the right port pictured here with the circle while the port with a square was another vacuum line that will (I believe) be deadended (discussed below and labeled ‘B’)

On the new carb I believe it goes here. Confirm?

• #5 lines – two water lines going to automatic choke. On old carb it was configured as a “top” and “bottom” and not “left” and “right”. Need confirmation of which line goes to which port please.

Origins of the water lines can be seen with arrows and are labeled as to whether they were on the top or bottom of the old carb. So which goes on the LEFT and RIGHT port of new carb or does it matter?

• The only connection I see that is electrical appears to be this connection, confirm? I believe the other two wires I am holding are now just dead ended and I can leave them tucked and unused?

They previously went here on the old carb:

• That addresses the questions for what I believe are the re-connections but I encountered two issues:
• FIRST: additional port that appears to need a connection and I have no idea what. I could deduce it is vacuum line “C” I have labeled below based upon the fact that it was similarly located in the same location on the old carb. Additional port circled in blue on new carb:

Where “C” was on old carb:

Labeled vacuum hoses that will be helpful here and the next set of Qs (A to F on top portion of pic and D and E loop to bottom portion of pic where there is also a vacuum line coming from the Gulp:

• SECOND: questions I have about all the other vacuum hoses and the EGR and Gulp.
• Vacuum hose “A” goes to the EGR as pictured here. Can I just disconnect? DO I need to cap it somehow? Should I remove the EGR? If I remove the EGR it looks a bit more complicated as I assume the connections identified as 1 and 2 below in blue also need addressed (going to exhaust and intake manifold). If remove, suggestions for addressing those two connections? Is there harm in leaving it and just disconnecting “A”?

• Vacuum hoses B, C and F previously went to the old carb. C is still in question per above but at this time I assume all 3 of these should be removed as the no longer go anywhere? Do I need to cap them somehow? If yes, suggestions?
• Vacuum hoses D and E loop back and then are diverted via another hose to the intake manifold. I assume I let those just stay put. If not, suggestions?
• Gulp – seems largely unaffected by carburetor change out. But could be affected by questions regarding D&E as one vacuum hose from the gulp goes to the same location as D&E that diverts to intake manifold. Just leave it? Remove hose? If yes, do I need to plug the area where gulp line goes next to D&E? Remove Gulp? Does removing Gulp make a difference other than clean up? If I do remove Gulp it also has a line going to intake manifold (red arrow below) right above the line that comes from EGR (blue arrow).

• Charcoal canister – I understand this could have some benefit in staying as it will collect vapors from tank. There is a line coming off the top of the canister that goes to the exhaust manifold and is called a hot air purge tube. As can be seen in pic its completely rusted off and technically the hose attaches to nothing on the exhaust manifold but just collects vapors coming off it. I assume its ok to just disconnect this? Do I need to cap/plug where it came off of the charcoal canister? Suggestions if yes?

That is all for now. Really hoping for some responses to I can wrap up what should hopefully be easy from here on out and maybe fire this baby up!!! Thanks in advance!!!

 

[johnph]

Save your notes, pictures and the old parts you are removing. Some day, you may wish you had them.
On the water lines, you could remove the choke coil chamber from the old carb and put it on the new one so the hoses line up.

 

[kmead]

He said ettiquette while speaking of XWeb...

Well done, well documented. I can’t really add anything, my apologies but you are definitely going about it correctly and have the right approach.

 

[JLo]

He said ettiquette while speaking of XWeb...

Well done, well documented. I can’t really add anything, my apologies but you are definitely going about it correctly and have the right approach.


Thank you...that is a confidence builder! I still have questions in my diatribe I am hoping to get some answers too if anyone has knowledge or doesn't mind taking the time. Just not sure how far I need, or want, to go! Really not confident about what I do after I disconnect some of the hoses that won't be reconnected.

PS.... "she".... dudes don't use the word "ettiquette"

 

[Rod Midkiff]

do check the fuel supply and return lines, they have a habit of slipping out of the carb, (they are just a push in fit nothing holding them in) many people remove them, tap the holes and thread in a fitting, (my understanding this is a required upgrade if the car is going to be on any track).

The lines like to pop off and spray fuel all over the place, (right above a hot exhaust) many x1/9's have been lost due to this.

 

[kmead]

I apologize, I neglected to welcome you to the forum. It is always great to welcome people to this forum, new cars, new people with their own personalities and abilities.

You have already met one of our expectations which is plenty of pictures, you did fail a little bit in that they aren’t pics of your car overall someone is going to ask.

You mentioned you are female, as you likely know this forum doesn’t have many women participating, those who do are among our most able and your first post suggests you will be on that track given your thorough documentation and approach to the problem you face.

So some of the typical things we say to new members: if you have a problem with your car, ask. It doesn’t matter if it has been asked before, you won’t be scolded with a ‘search’ though we may point you to some common areas where you can find info such as the Wiki and the Best of Xweb (BOX) threads/areas of the Xweb. We have dealt with most of the ills of this car and have dealt with it, some of the problems are hard to figure out exactly what is wrong and we can give you clues. This is an Italian car built during times of labor strife and an approach to building a car which is a bit different from other manufacturers, so for example your car being the first major update to the X will have some differences from other X’s and likely some bits from the earlier run of cars.

As you may know there are a number of great vendors who carry many of the parts you will need, some of the parts are no longer available but most of the mechanicals are available as the X was built from parts used on other high volume Fiats. Among the vendors are (I always forget a few, my apologies):
Fiat Plus www.fiatplus.com/
Fun Imported www.funimported.com
Henk Martins www.x19partsholland.nl/
Midwest Bayless www.midwest-bayless.com/
Vick Auto www.vickauto.com/
Ebay of course.

I would suggest picking up the factory manual along with the Haynes manual. The factory manual tends to be somewhat barebones and the Haynes manual may have some faulty torque info but explains some things better. Get the wiring diagram for your year, it is likely buyable from MWB but may also be downloaded at another forum you may wish to be a member of (https://www.mirafiori.com/forum/) which has a nice cache of great info and manuals along with a slightly different mix of insane owners of Fiats (some of us are in both asylums).

So keep the questions coming. You will likely find we are a friendly forum, we tend to wander off subject in the course of answering a question so feel free to redirect us If you do have an issue, please reach out to the forum moderators, although in general they have a light hand (because we generally behave) but can ably assist.

In any case, welcome we are looking forward to seeing what you do with your X and before someone else says it: we need to see more pictures of your car. All they best

Karl

 

[JLo]

I apologize, I neglected to welcome you to the forum. It is always great to welcome people to this forum, new cars, new people with their own personalities and abilities.

You have already met one of our expectations which is plenty of pictures, you did fail a little bit in that they aren’t pics of your car overall someone is going to ask.

You mentioned you are female, as you likely know this forum doesn’t have many women participating, those who do are among our most able and your first post suggests you will be on that track given your thorough documentation and approach to the problem you face.

So some of the typical things we say to new members: if you have a problem with your car, ask. It doesn’t matter if it has been asked before, you won’t be scolded with a ‘search’ though we may point you to some common areas where you can find info such as the Wiki and the Best of Xweb (BOX) threads/areas of the Xweb. We have dealt with most of the ills of this car and have dealt with it, some of the problems are hard to figure out exactly what is wrong and we can give you clues. This is an Italian car built during times of labor strife and an approach to building a car which is a bit different from other manufacturers, so for example your car being the first major update to the X will have some differences from other X’s and likely some bits from the earlier run of cars.

As you may know there are a number of great vendors who carry many of the parts you will need, some of the parts are no longer available but most of the mechanicals are available as the X was built from parts used on other high volume Fiats. Among the vendors are (I always forget a few, my apologies):
Fiat Plus www.fiatplus.com/
Fun Imported www.funimported.com
Henk Martins www.x19partsholland.nl/
Midwest Bayless www.midwest-bayless.com/
Vick Auto www.vickauto.com/
Ebay of course.

I would suggest picking up the factory manual along with the Haynes manual. The factory manual tends to be somewhat barebones and the Haynes manual may have some faulty torque info but explains some things better. Get the wiring diagram for your year, it is likely buyable from MWB but may also be downloaded at another forum you may wish to be a member of (https://www.mirafiori.com/forum/) which has a nice cache of great info and manuals along with a slightly different mix of insane owners of Fiats (some of us are in both asylums).

So keep the questions coming. You will likely find we are a friendly forum, we tend to wander off subject in the course of answering a question so feel free to redirect us If you do have an issue, please reach out to the forum moderators, although in general they have a light hand (because we generally behave) but can ably assist.

In any case, welcome we are looking forward to seeing what you do with your X and before someone else says it: we need to see more pictures of your car. All they best

Karl

Thanks Karl!!!

 

[kmead]

I spent some more time looking at your post and have some suggestions which will follow your text but in red.

Overall, you are approaching this very well. Your car was a transition year and has a number of peculiarities shared with the early 1980 carbed model (which was my second X). You did your research well.

You don’t mention where you are, but you may end up having issues with local authorities around emissions (and thus why it was suggested you keep your notes and the parts if you need to ’go back’). Hopefully that isn’t the case as all of these addons did nothing for performance and greatly hindered drive ability as well as induced other reliability issues.

Your approach of ”I am keeping this and adding this which has only the following” is a good one. Keeping the carbon canister is a good choice and has no effect on driveability or performance. Much of the rest of the controls from that time were intended to manage closed throttle behavior in hopes of mitigating NOx emissions and keeping the AF ratio in range for the catalytic converter which was doing most of the work of cleaning up the exhaust gases.

First, Just acquired my 2nd x 1/9. First was a 1982 I owned at age 16. In an attempt to relive my youth I've acquired a 1980 single owner barn find. Been sitting around 28 years without running so I have my work ahead of me.

Second, I am a newbie so apologize if I don't follow etiquette. I will learn.

I have read several threads on the above topic on here and other forums and have compiled what I think is correct into this post and I am hoping for folks to confirm my accuracy and answer some more questions before I plunge into completing this project. And hopefully this (probably way too) detailed thread can help someone else who is visual like me. I hope there is no word count. Went to get my carb rebuilt and it was suggested I consider a swap and atleast partial de-smog. So here I Am. Here it goes.....

• Swapping out carburetors: 28/30 DHTA 7/280 J9 with 32 DATRA12 100 F6
• Removed EGC valve from cylinder head, two hoses, smog air pump/belt/bracket. Plugged hole. Any repercussions to removing smog air pump?

Removing the smog pump is a worthwhile weight reduction and will give you more room.

• Removed another “thing” from cylinder head above spark plug 3 (had several wires attached to it). Coolant escaped. Plugged and left wires tucked into firewall. Assume these do not need removed?

The thing controls the gulp valve which you have further down in the thread. The wires lead back to a relay which will lie dormant or could be reused to perform another function which could be part of a future thread about things you can do to improve reliability/performance of the electrical system on the car.

This photo identifies the location of the plugs.

• Began hooking up new carb after reading numerous posts on subject and under assumption that when done I will have the following 7 lines that are hooked up and the rest are scrapped:
  1. Fuel line from filter/pump/tank
  2. Fuel line going back to gas tank
  3. 2 lines going to charcoal canister
  4. Vacuum line going to “dizzy” (only took a quick google search to learn that is code for distributor)
  5. 2 water lines going to automatic choke
• Unfortunately discovered this carb has an 8th port requiring some sort of connection unknown to me. And I have a series of other questions and would like confirmation I am making the correct reconnections/deconnections. So again, here it goes....
• #1 & #2 lines: self- explanatory but including pic to be comprehensive:
• # 3 lines: Two lines from charcoal canister: there is a line coming from the bottom (manual showed it was the side) and one from the top that had gone to the previous carb and route to the new carb as follows. Correct?

Yes

• #4 line: vacuum line to dizzy. On old carb it was on the right port pictured here with the circle while the port with a square was another vacuum line that will (I believe) be deadended (discussed below and labeled ‘B’)

This should go to a port which is below the throttle butterflies, depending on the carb some will have a port above the butterflies and one below, you want the dist to connect to the one below.

On the new carb I believe it goes here. Confirm?

• #5 lines – two water lines going to automatic choke. On old carb it was configured as a “top” and “bottom” and not “left” and “right”. Need confirmation of which line goes to which port please.

The order of the lines doesn’t matter, this is a constant flow element which heats up a bimetallic spring to open/close the choke automatically. You will need to adjust the rotation of the body to ensure the choke opens or is closed at the correct temperature. You should be able to use the old body from the old car to make routing of the hoses easier/better.


Origins of the water lines can be seen with arrows and are labeled as to whether they were on the top or bottom of the old carb. So which goes on the LEFT and RIGHT port of new carb or does it matter?

• The only connection I see that is electrical appears to be this connection, confirm? I believe the other two wires I am holding are now just dead ended and I can leave them tucked and unused?

Yes
They previously went here on the old carb:

• That addresses the questions for what I believe are the re-connections but I encountered two issues:
• FIRST: additional port that appears to need a connection and I have no idea what. I could deduce it is vacuum line “C” I have labeled below based upon the fact that it was similarly located in the same location on the old carb. Additional port circled in blue on new carb:

Where “C” was on old carb:

Labeled vacuum hoses that will be helpful here and the next set of Qs (A to F on top portion of pic and D and E loop to bottom portion of pic where there is also a vacuum line coming from the Gulp:

• SECOND: questions I have about all the other vacuum hoses and the EGR and Gulp.
• Vacuum hose “A” goes to the EGR as pictured here. Can I just disconnect? DO I need to cap it somehow? Should I remove the EGR? If I remove the EGR it looks a bit more complicated as I assume the connections identified as 1 and 2 below in blue also need addressed (going to exhaust and intake manifold). If remove, suggestions for addressing those two connections? Is there harm in leaving it and just disconnecting “A”?
• Vacuum hoses B, C and F previously went to the old carb. C is still in question per above but at this time I assume all 3 of these should be removed as the no longer go anywhere? Do I need to cap them somehow? If yes, suggestions?
• Vacuum hoses D and E loop back and then are diverted via another hose to the intake manifold. I assume I let those just stay put. If not, suggestions?
• Gulp – seems largely unaffected by carburetor change out. But could be affected by questions regarding D&E as one vacuum hose from the gulp goes to the same location as D&E that diverts to intake manifold. Just leave it? Remove hose? If yes, do I need to plug the area where gulp line goes next to D&E? Remove Gulp? Does removing Gulp make a difference other than clean up? If I do remove Gulp it also has a line going to intake manifold (red arrow below) right above the line that comes from EGR (blue arrow).

The EGR valve can be removed and all holes plugged or left in place but disconnected from what it was controlled by. It is just more stuff in the engine bay which you will have to work around. With it disabled you may find that some parts have rusted and will leak exhaust, if so then the ports should be closed, preferably with a tapped filler.

• Charcoal canister – I understand this could have some benefit in staying as it will collect vapors from tank. There is a line coming off the top of the canister that goes to the exhaust manifold and is called a hot air purge tube. As can be seen in pic its completely rusted off and technically the hose attaches to nothing on the exhaust manifold but just collects vapors coming off it. I assume its ok to just disconnect this? Do I need to cap/plug where it came off of the charcoal canister? Suggestions if yes?

The air from the manifold is intended to warm the charcoal so it will release the hydrocarbons and draw them back into the carb using vacuum from the carb to be burnt in the normal combustion process. Making the manifold connection at least secure and in the vicinity of the manifold will help the carbon filter work properly by providing warmed air.

That is all for now. Really hoping for some responses to I can wrap up what should hopefully be easy from here on out and maybe fire this baby up!!! Thanks in advance!!!

There are other smarter members with more experience in purging these items here who will wander by and offer additional suggestions.

In any case, welcome and glad to have you here. Please keep us in the loop with how it is going and any issues you run into. It will be great to have another one of these cars back on the road and being enjoyed.

The name and the pink nail polish should have tipped me off

 

[JLo]

I spent some more time looking at your post and have some suggestions which will follow your text but in red.

Overall, you are approaching this very well. Your car was a transition year and has a number of peculiarities shared with the early 1980 carbed model (which was my second X). You did your research well.

You don’t mention where you are, but you may end up having issues with local authorities around emissions (and thus why it was suggested you keep your notes and the parts if you need to ’go back’). Hopefully that isn’t the case as all of these addons did nothing for performance and greatly hindered drive ability as well as induced other reliability issues.

Your approach of ”I am keeping this and adding this which has only the following” is a good one. Keeping the carbon canister is a good choice and has no effect on driveability or performance. Much of the rest of the controls from that time were intended to manage closed throttle behavior in hopes of mitigating NOx emissions and keeping the AF ratio in range for the catalytic converter which was doing most of the work of cleaning up the exhaust gases.

First, Just acquired my 2nd x 1/9. First was a 1982 I owned at age 16. In an attempt to relive my youth I've acquired a 1980 single owner barn find. Been sitting around 28 years without running so I have my work ahead of me.

Second, I am a newbie so apologize if I don't follow etiquette. I will learn.

I have read several threads on the above topic on here and other forums and have compiled what I think is correct into this post and I am hoping for folks to confirm my accuracy and answer some more questions before I plunge into completing this project. And hopefully this (probably way too) detailed thread can help someone else who is visual like me. I hope there is no word count. Went to get my carb rebuilt and it was suggested I consider a swap and atleast partial de-smog. So here I Am. Here it goes.....

• Swapping out carburetors: 28/30 DHTA 7/280 J9 with 32 DATRA12 100 F6
• Removed EGC valve from cylinder head, two hoses, smog air pump/belt/bracket. Plugged hole. Any repercussions to removing smog air pump?

Removing the smog pump is a worthwhile weight reduction and will give you more room.

• Removed another “thing” from cylinder head above spark plug 3 (had several wires attached to it). Coolant escaped. Plugged and left wires tucked into firewall. Assume these do not need removed?

The thing controls the gulp valve which you have further down in the thread. The wires lead back to a relay which will lie dormant or could be reused to perform another function which could be part of a future thread about things you can do to improve reliability/performance of the electrical system on the car.

This photo identifies the location of the plugs.

• Began hooking up new carb after reading numerous posts on subject and under assumption that when done I will have the following 7 lines that are hooked up and the rest are scrapped:
  1. Fuel line from filter/pump/tank
  2. Fuel line going back to gas tank
  3. 2 lines going to charcoal canister
  4. Vacuum line going to “dizzy” (only took a quick google search to learn that is code for distributor)
  5. 2 water lines going to automatic choke
• Unfortunately discovered this carb has an 8th port requiring some sort of connection unknown to me. And I have a series of other questions and would like confirmation I am making the correct reconnections/deconnections. So again, here it goes....
• #1 & #2 lines: self- explanatory but including pic to be comprehensive:
• # 3 lines: Two lines from charcoal canister: there is a line coming from the bottom (manual showed it was the side) and one from the top that had gone to the previous carb and route to the new carb as follows. Correct?

Yes

• #4 line: vacuum line to dizzy. On old carb it was on the right port pictured here with the circle while the port with a square was another vacuum line that will (I believe) be deadended (discussed below and labeled ‘B’)

This should go to a port which is below the throttle butterflies, depending on the carb some will have a port above the butterflies and one below, you want the dist to connect to the one below.

On the new carb I believe it goes here. Confirm?

• #5 lines – two water lines going to automatic choke. On old carb it was configured as a “top” and “bottom” and not “left” and “right”. Need confirmation of which line goes to which port please.

The order of the lines doesn’t matter, this is a constant flow element which heats up a bimetallic spring to open/close the choke automatically. You will need to adjust the rotation of the body to ensure the choke opens or is closed at the correct temperature. You should be able to use the old body from the old car to make routing of the hoses easier/better.


Origins of the water lines can be seen with arrows and are labeled as to whether they were on the top or bottom of the old carb. So which goes on the LEFT and RIGHT port of new carb or does it matter?

• The only connection I see that is electrical appears to be this connection, confirm? I believe the other two wires I am holding are now just dead ended and I can leave them tucked and unused?

Yes
They previously went here on the old carb:

• That addresses the questions for what I believe are the re-connections but I encountered two issues:
• FIRST: additional port that appears to need a connection and I have no idea what. I could deduce it is vacuum line “C” I have labeled below based upon the fact that it was similarly located in the same location on the old carb. Additional port circled in blue on new carb:

Where “C” was on old carb:

Labeled vacuum hoses that will be helpful here and the next set of Qs (A to F on top portion of pic and D and E loop to bottom portion of pic where there is also a vacuum line coming from the Gulp:

• SECOND: questions I have about all the other vacuum hoses and the EGR and Gulp.
• Vacuum hose “A” goes to the EGR as pictured here. Can I just disconnect? DO I need to cap it somehow? Should I remove the EGR? If I remove the EGR it looks a bit more complicated as I assume the connections identified as 1 and 2 below in blue also need addressed (going to exhaust and intake manifold). If remove, suggestions for addressing those two connections? Is there harm in leaving it and just disconnecting “A”?
• Vacuum hoses B, C and F previously went to the old carb. C is still in question per above but at this time I assume all 3 of these should be removed as the no longer go anywhere? Do I need to cap them somehow? If yes, suggestions?
• Vacuum hoses D and E loop back and then are diverted via another hose to the intake manifold. I assume I let those just stay put. If not, suggestions?
• Gulp – seems largely unaffected by carburetor change out. But could be affected by questions regarding D&E as one vacuum hose from the gulp goes to the same location as D&E that diverts to intake manifold. Just leave it? Remove hose? If yes, do I need to plug the area where gulp line goes next to D&E? Remove Gulp? Does removing Gulp make a difference other than clean up? If I do remove Gulp it also has a line going to intake manifold (red arrow below) right above the line that comes from EGR (blue arrow).

The EGR valve can be removed and all holes plugged or left in place but disconnected from what it was controlled by. It is just more stuff in the engine bay which you will have to work around. With it disabled you may find that some parts have rusted and will leak exhaust, if so then the ports should be closed, preferably with a tapped filler.

• Charcoal canister – I understand this could have some benefit in staying as it will collect vapors from tank. There is a line coming off the top of the canister that goes to the exhaust manifold and is called a hot air purge tube. As can be seen in pic its completely rusted off and technically the hose attaches to nothing on the exhaust manifold but just collects vapors coming off it. I assume its ok to just disconnect this? Do I need to cap/plug where it came off of the charcoal canister? Suggestions if yes?

The air from the manifold is intended to warm the charcoal so it will release the hydrocarbons and draw them back into the carb using vacuum from the carb to be burnt in the normal combustion process. Making the manifold connection at least secure and in the vicinity of the manifold will help the carbon filter work properly by providing warmed air.

That is all for now. Really hoping for some responses to I can wrap up what should hopefully be easy from here on out and maybe fire this baby up!!! Thanks in advance!!!

There are other smarter members with more experience in purging these items here who will wander by and offer additional suggestions.

In any case, welcome and glad to have you here. Please keep us in the loop with how it is going and any issues you run into. It will be great to have another one of these cars back on the road and being enjoyed.

The name and the pink nail polish should have tipped me off

Thanks Karl...super helpful and appreciate the insight so far. This is a great forum!

 

[Eastep]

I'm too lazy to read everything you posted or Karl's response, but not too lazy to help.
The dhort of it is:
Plugged head = good

Remove all that crap and everything it attaches to vvv

Remove that thing and make a blanking plate. The tube portion needs cut and capped or removed.
vvv

Remove this crap and whatever it attaches to. Cap all newly opened ports.
vvv

Here's a few pics of mine for reference
Pics of mine for reference:

 

[dllubin]

You can also remove the EGR valve without making a blanking plate. The water port (center hole) can easily be tapped with an M8 and plugged.

 

[JLo]

Ok... successfully started it up… Probably need to work on some timing but meanwhile what is the light underneath the gas gauge? Long orange bar. We did also change the gas tank and sending unit. Thanks everyone!!!

 

[NEG]

Low fuel light

 

[JLo]

Low fuel light

Well that makes sense....and since I just put a new sender in and it reads empty....I am feeling way better about that install too! THanks

 

[JimD]

Well that makes sense....and since I just put a new sender in and it reads empty....I am feeling way better about that install too! THanks

Maybe you reversed the wires on the sender at the tank?

 

[JLo]

Maybe you reversed the wires on the sender at the tank?

Oooof....will wait until we fill it up to make that determination. Thinking low fuel since we used the lawn mower gas can to fill it up after replacing the tank...and boy was that fun.

 

[johnph]

First, Just acquired my 2nd x 1/9. First was a 1982 I owned at age 16. In an attempt to relive my youth I've acquired a 1980 single owner barn find. Been sitting around 28 years without running so I have my work ahead of me.

Second, I am a newbie so apologize if I don't follow etiquette. I will learn.

I have read several threads on the above topic on here and other forums and have compiled what I think is correct into this post and I am hoping for folks to confirm my accuracy and answer some more questions before I plunge into completing this project. And hopefully this (probably way too) detailed thread can help someone else who is visual like me. I hope there is no word count. Went to get my carb rebuilt and it was suggested I consider a swap and atleast partial de-smog. So here I Am. Here it goes.....

• Swapping out carburetors: 28/30 DHTA 7/280 J9 with 32 DATRA12 100 F6
• Removed EGC valve from cylinder head, two hoses, smog air pump/belt/bracket. Plugged hole. Any repercussions to removing smog air pump?

View attachment 34114

• Removed another “thing” from cylinder head above spark plug 3 (had several wires attached to it). Coolant escaped. Plugged and left wires tucked into firewall. Assume these do not need removed?

View attachment 34115

This photo identifies the location of the plugs.

View attachment 34116

• Began hooking up new carb after reading numerous posts on subject and under assumption that when done I will have the following 7 lines that are hooked up and the rest are scrapped:
  1. Fuel line from filter/pump/tank
  2. Fuel line going back to gas tank
  3. 2 lines going to charcoal canister
  4. Vacuum line going to “dizzy” (only took a quick google search to learn that is code for distributor)
  5. 2 water lines going to automatic choke
• Unfortunately discovered this carb has an 8th port requiring some sort of connection unknown to me. And I have a series of other questions and would like confirmation I am making the correct reconnections/deconnections. So again, here it goes....
• #1 & #2 lines: self- explanatory but including pic to be comprehensive:

View attachment 34117

• # 3 lines: Two lines from charcoal canister: there is a line coming from the bottom (manual showed it was the side) and one from the top that had gone to the previous carb and route to the new carb as follows. Correct?

View attachment 34121

• #4 line: vacuum line to dizzy. On old carb it was on the right port pictured here with the circle while the port with a square was another vacuum line that will (I believe) be deadended (discussed below and labeled ‘B’)

View attachment 34124

On the new carb I believe it goes here. Confirm?
View attachment 34125

• #5 lines – two water lines going to automatic choke. On old carb it was configured as a “top” and “bottom” and not “left” and “right”. Need confirmation of which line goes to which port please.

View attachment 34126View attachment 34127

Origins of the water lines can be seen with arrows and are labeled as to whether they were on the top or bottom of the old carb. So which goes on the LEFT and RIGHT port of new carb or does it matter?

View attachment 34128

• The only connection I see that is electrical appears to be this connection, confirm? I believe the other two wires I am holding are now just dead ended and I can leave them tucked and unused?

View attachment 34130

They previously went here on the old carb:

View attachment 34132

• That addresses the questions for what I believe are the re-connections but I encountered two issues:
• FIRST: additional port that appears to need a connection and I have no idea what. I could deduce it is vacuum line “C” I have labeled below based upon the fact that it was similarly located in the same location on the old carb. Additional port circled in blue on new carb:

View attachment 34133


Where “C” was on old carb: View attachment 34134

Labeled vacuum hoses that will be helpful here and the next set of Qs (A to F on top portion of pic and D and E loop to bottom portion of pic where there is also a vacuum line coming from the Gulp:

View attachment 34135

• SECOND: questions I have about all the other vacuum hoses and the EGR and Gulp.
• Vacuum hose “A” goes to the EGR as pictured here. Can I just disconnect? DO I need to cap it somehow? Should I remove the EGR? If I remove the EGR it looks a bit more complicated as I assume the connections identified as 1 and 2 below in blue also need addressed (going to exhaust and intake manifold). If remove, suggestions for addressing those two connections? Is there harm in leaving it and just disconnecting “A”?

View attachment 34136

• Vacuum hoses B, C and F previously went to the old carb. C is still in question per above but at this time I assume all 3 of these should be removed as the no longer go anywhere? Do I need to cap them somehow? If yes, suggestions?
• Vacuum hoses D and E loop back and then are diverted via another hose to the intake manifold. I assume I let those just stay put. If not, suggestions?
• Gulp – seems largely unaffected by carburetor change out. But could be affected by questions regarding D&E as one vacuum hose from the gulp goes to the same location as D&E that diverts to intake manifold. Just leave it? Remove hose? If yes, do I need to plug the area where gulp line goes next to D&E? Remove Gulp? Does removing Gulp make a difference other than clean up? If I do remove Gulp it also has a line going to intake manifold (red arrow below) right above the line that comes from EGR (blue arrow).

View attachment 34137

• Charcoal canister – I understand this could have some benefit in staying as it will collect vapors from tank. There is a line coming off the top of the canister that goes to the exhaust manifold and is called a hot air purge tube. As can be seen in pic its completely rusted off and technically the hose attaches to nothing on the exhaust manifold but just collects vapors coming off it. I assume its ok to just disconnect this? Do I need to cap/plug where it came off of the charcoal canister? Suggestions if yes?

View attachment 34138

That is all for now. Really hoping for some responses to I can wrap up what should hopefully be easy from here on out and maybe fire this baby up!!! Thanks in advance!!!

Jlo: I live in California and my X 1/9 is a 1976. That means that to register it, the emission control systems may not be tampered with.
What state do you live in and do you plan to register this for road use? By the way, your pictures and labeling are excellent!

 

[JLo]

Jlo: I live in California and my X 1/9 is a 1976. That means that to register it, the emission control systems may not be tampered with.
What state do you live in and do you plan to register this for road use? By the way, your pictures and labeling are excellent!

I’m ok in my state. I’m very knowledgeable on the regulations and the risk. And thanks on the labeling!!

 

[milan1951]

very interesting workshop forum on X1/9 carburetor.
I have a car that hasn't run for 3 years and was going to try and do the minimum carburetor service to ensure smooth start and running. Not even sure what model Weber carburetor I have on my 1982 Australian X 1/9. Is the model stamped somewhere on the carburetor body. should give the carb body a clean with solvent and soft wire brush to reveal the model.
Milan1951
1982 X 1/9

 

[Eastep]

very interesting workshop forum on X1/9 carburetor.
I have a car that hasn't run for 3 years and was going to try and do the minimum carburetor service to ensure smooth start and running. Not even sure what model Weber carburetor I have on my 1982 Australian X 1/9. Is the model stamped somewhere on the carburetor body. should give the carb body a clean with solvent and soft wire brush to reveal the model.
Milan1951
1982 X 1/9

You most likely have a 34DATR. The model number will be stamped on the carb mounting base. It'll be on the side facing the cam box, so you may need a mirror and/or clean the base, to view it easily.
If the car has sat for 3 years; remove the carb, take it apart, blow out every port/orifice and jet with carb/brake cleaner. (Compressed air if available). I like to soak my carb bodies over night (at bare minimum) in parts cleaner. Remove the butterflies and chokes, etc. Just really clean out everything. I like to make my own gaskets, so either buy new gaskets or carefully remove the old ones to be used as templates. Re assemble and adjust your idle mix and idle speed as needed.
Be careful when removing the float as you don't want to tweak the level tab, or you'll have issues.