I need to change my fluids, any brand preference?

Zona

Zona

Jase
Since my car has been sitting for 12 years I feel it's best if I change out most of the fluids. I plan on getting the engine oil (duh), transmission fluid, brake fluid, and coolant. What brands of each do you guys prefer, and would you suggest I change anything else while I'm at it? Also, how much of each will I need?
 
Most important,,

Do not use regular transmission oil. It has the wrong speck and will ruin the syncronisers. At the very least it should have GL-1 specs. This will probably be hard to find. The consensus here is easily to use either Redline MTL or Redline Mt-90. It's synthetic and will not get thick in the cold like the original oil . It's been well proven by the most experienced on this site. It's about twice the price but well worth it. I would run what's in it first, to shine up the parts,drain hot and then put in the new oil.
 
Opinions may vary...

I use Castrol 20W50 oil in the sump.
Sierra (phosphate free!) antifreeze in the cooling system.
Redline MT90 for the transaxle.
Dot 3 or 4 brake fluid (nothing special here) for brake/clutch reservoir.
Blue stuff from wherever in the wiper fluid reservoir.
Mid grade unleaded in the fuel tank.

Batdorf and Bronson Organic French Roast espresso in the latté holder. :grin:
 
I agree...

Have seen many pitted cams in the last few years since zinc and other additives were removed from many oils to make catalytic convertors last longer. Myself I use Swepco 306 witch is a 15/40 old spec diesel oil.
Rolf.
 
Many of the newer oils that have less zinc than older oils are far better at retaining the zinc over the long term. I suspect that the cam issues have more to do with the inappropriate use of low HTHS oils. I would (and do) use an oil that meets VW 505/502, BMW LL01 or M-B 229.3/5 and I don't worry about the brand. I use Pentosynth HP2 5w40 because it's easily available to me but there are a dozen or more other oils I'd be just as happy to use.
 
I hate to get into an oil conversation, BUT

I personally agree with the 5W theory.
I did a study and found the same things Chris spoke of in the above thread.
I use 5W50 Castrol full synthetic. Sometimes hard to find on the shelves, but a great oil.
I'm one of those guys that changes oil based on color, not on time or other factors.
The car sits 99.9% of the time anyway, and the environment is always dry. Often cold, but dry.
If the oil remains clear, (light amber) it stays. I don't care how long it sits in the engine.
(After all, theoretically, your oil is a million years old. Right? Ha!)
 
I've always used the cheap stuff in the past (never owned a sports car before now) so I don't know too much about the high quality oils but isn't there some risk involved in switching from natural to synthetic? I've heard you are more likely to leak.
 
I did it and didn't experience

any oil leaks.
Then again, my engine has only 28K miles on it.
Not sure that makes a difference anyway being 24+ years old and all.
 
Capacities here...

X1-9_00_00-3-10.jpg


12.2 qts. is equal to 3.05 gallons. Bleeding the cooling system is crucial, there's a bleed screw in the upper left corner of the radiator (accessible through the front trunk). The system will stabilize with the expansion tank/reservoir about 3/5 full.

Part of the manual available here:
http://www.midwesternmedicalmachine.com/~damonfg/X_FSM/FSM_index.html
 
I like Redline oils, but in the past have used a variety. Your use of the car and the frequency of changes can dictate what oil you use.

If it sits a lot its better to use cheap dino and change it often. If you run the car hard, on the track, or infrequently change oil I would recommend a synthetic

I use :
Redline 10/40 in the motor
Redline lightweight shock proof in the tranny (though MTO is highly recommended)
ATE SuperBlue brake fluid in brakes / clutch
No particular brand coolant, flushed every couple years it doesn't matter that much, but the red stuff seems to have better specs.
 
Like Pennsylvania crude oils that were considered the "Best" available for automotive oils, some auto myths refuse to die.

If the oil seals and the shaft they run on are in good condition, they will not and should not leak.

As for Castro oils, I loss all respect for them when I learned they were selling Synetec as a synthetic oil when it was not a true PAO based oil. Mobil sued them and proved Castro was more marketing than substance.

Amsoil, another early synthetic oil supplier gets their PAO base from Mobil.. or better to simply use Mobil One, get it from the source.

IMO, there is no reason to use anything less than the best of most modern lubrication technologies available.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
As for what fluids goes into the cars these days..

*Mobile One W5-40 turbo diesel truck oil for all engines in the fleet. Changed twice a year regardless of mileage. Got this one from the Eye Sore Racing folks after a long discussion about oils with one of their engineers.. who works for Garrett.

*K & N oil filter each oil change. The HP2004 (FORD- V8) fits the x1/9 and SAAB. As for Fram filters, they have a tendency to self-dissolve into the engine... not good for the engine at all.

*Redline MTL for the transaxles..

*G05 coolant (30% G05, 70% distilled water, no snow in this part of CA) with Redline Water Wetter. Changed every 2-3 years or so.

*ATE super (DOT4+) blue or red fr brakes and clutch.

*Redline CV-2 or Neo Oil, CV500 for the CV joints.

Zona said:
I've always used the cheap stuff in the past (never owned a sports car before now) so I don't know too much about the high quality oils but isn't there some risk involved in switching from natural to synthetic? I've heard you are more likely to leak.
Click to expand...
 
bbrown said:
a silicone based brake fluid?
Click to expand...

No, its a DOT4 fluid. I think it's the same as Ate TYP 200 except with blue dye. I personally hate the blue dye because it turns the whole system blue and makes the fluid look funny when you put non dyed fluid in. I really don't see the point of the blue.
 
Matthew said:
No, its a DOT4 fluid. I think it's the same as Ate TYP 200 except with blue dye. I personally hate the blue dye because it turns the whole system blue and makes the fluid look funny when you put non dyed fluid in. I really don't see the point of the blue.
Click to expand...


I agree, I hate blue dye, but since i Never go back once I add super-blue I havn't had a problem

Can you get the ate typ 200 without the dye?
 
So when looking for oil I should try and find one that meets A2 standards and is 5w50, 5w/40, or 10w/40. I'd like for some of the high mileage guys that actually DD (or close to it) their cars to chime in with their preferred lubricants. Currently my car is still on jack stands but once I get it on the road I plan to keep it there every day weather allows, it won't be just a weekend car and will see its fair share of stop and go driving, which I know is harder on the engine so I want to use the best oil I can. I know "best" is an opinion so I'll go with whatever seems to be the most popular.
 
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