It's Alive!!!! 1300 Street Performance Rebuild

AKimball92

AKimball92

True Classic
I successfully started :D my x1/9 yesterday after 5 years of being off the road and 3 years for a rebuild. See video on Instagram or soon Facebook. I do not do Photobucket or YouTube so not sure how to post a video here.:rolleyes:

I have not played with the carb tuning or anything yet but it seems to run fine for the most part without it. I even got it to idle without throttle import. In the video there is a bit of rattling present because I forgot to tighten the V-band clamp on the custom exhaust. It grew too late to do another start after correcting that issue.

Next steps:
1. Clean the fuel tank. I know this should have happened first but I was too anxious to hear it run.
2. I need new leads that don't stretch to China. I will most likely purchase from the fellow on this site in his next batch. Green sounds nice if those are available...:rolleyes:
3. Complete my exhaust manifold heat shield.
4. Purchase an air intake filter and housing. I need a short DCNF version modified for the additional linkages on the DCNVA.
5. Figure out what is needed for the tank venting and carbon trap if its possible to keep. I would like to keep any non-power sapping emissions crap :p.
6. Suspension rebuild over the winter, new bushings, clean, prep and paint, and repack bearings.
 
What are the allowed extensions for this forum? my file is 2.7 gigs and an MP4. what do I need to get it down to and convert to in order to post it?
 
You need to host it externally.

Using Dropbox or similar online file hosting service and then put a public link to the file.

Must be a long video. You can reduce the quality in many programs to get it down to a reasonable file size as an additional step.

Glad to hear the car started. What was the key to the solution to it running?

Strongly recommend those properly fitting plug wires.
 
AKimball92 said:
I successfully started :D my x1/9 yesterday after 5 years of being off the road and 3 years for a rebuild. See video on Instagram or soon Facebook. I do not do Photobucket or YouTube so not sure how to post a video here.:rolleyes:

I have not played with the carb tuning or anything yet but it seems to run fine for the most part without it. I even got it to idle without throttle import. In the video there is a bit of rattling present because I forgot to tighten the V-band clamp on the custom exhaust. It grew too late to do another start after correcting that issue.

Next steps:
1. Clean the fuel tank. I know this should have happened first but I was too anxious to hear it run.
2. I need new leads that don't stretch to China. I will most likely purchase from the fellow on this site in his next batch. Green sounds nice if those are available...:rolleyes:
3. Complete my exhaust manifold heat shield.
4. Purchase an air intake filter and housing. I need a short DCNF version modified for the additional linkages on the DCNVA.
5. Figure out what is needed for the tank venting and carbon trap if its possible to keep. I would like to keep any non-power sapping emissions crap :p.
6. Suspension rebuild over the winter, new bushings, clean, prep and paint, and repack bearings.
Click to expand...
If you still have the stock tank venting, I'd stick with that.

Regarding the fuel tank, I just went through a painful exercise. I thought I had cleaned my tank out pretty good, put a couple of gallons of gas in, and proceeded to tune the motor, etc. over the course of about a week. I went to start the car in order to take it on its first drive, and it wouldn't fire. I checked the engine compartment, and both fuel filters were black. Apparently, I had some stuff stuck somewhere in the bottom of the tank that took about a week or so to dissolve in gasoline and go into suspension. Made a real mess of the fuel system, and more. It took me about a month to get back to where I was before it happened.

Not sure if you are referring to repacking the wheel bearings but getting access to them can be a destructive process. If you are going to that much trouble, I'd just stick new ones in.
 
I did my math/naming wrong. the video file isn't Gigs its Megs. But still if the site doesn't support video files, I still need to go elsewhere.

I rebuilt the distributor with much learning and interest to myself having never torn one apart. After reinstall, the points and a spark plug both sparked when turning over. I plugged everything in and it fired up nicely.
 
dllubin said:
If you still have the stock tank venting, I'd stick with that.

Regarding the fuel tank, I just went through a painful exercise. I thought I had cleaned my tank out pretty good, put a couple of gallons of gas in, and proceeded to tune the motor, etc. over the course of about a week. I went to start the car in order to take it on its first drive, and it wouldn't fire. I checked the engine compartment, and both fuel filters were black. Apparently, I had some stuff stuck somewhere in the bottom of the tank that took about a week or so to dissolve in gasoline and go into suspension. Made a real mess of the fuel system, and more. It took me about a month to get back to where I was before it happened.

Not sure if you are referring to repacking the wheel bearings but getting access to them can be a destructive process. If you are going to that much trouble, I'd just stick new ones in.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up. Yes I have been following that thread for the most part. I need to pull the sending unit out and have a good look-see inside. I will assess from there.

I do have the stock tank venting, with the rollover system as well as the carbon canister set up. Unfortunately my carb doesn't have a way to use the gas from the canister like the stock one did. I can vent it to the air filter when i have one available.
 
Nice work Andrew.

The stock fuel tank "vent" arrangement is very odd. For some reason they have two vents, one on either side of the tank, that extend down into the lower portion of it. Then those two vents are interconnected by a maze of hoses, check valves, Y's, carbon/charcoal filters, solenoids, etc. Eventually it all connects to the carb; on my Calif SMOG spec '79 in two places. Most of the connections and attachments were plastic and broken, the hoses rotted, the check valves stuck, the filter clogged, who knows what else. I think it could be greatly simplified by merging the two tank vents into one hose, going directly into the air filter housing or the carb if it has a suitable fitting for that.

I HIGHLY recommend that you pull the tank to check/clean it. Read the thread "dllubin" linked to see why.

Can't help you with the video stuff. But I notice some threads have a video right in the thread, not linked externally. So there must be a way to include it in a post.
 
Dr.Jeff said:
Nice work Andrew.

The stock fuel tank "vent" arrangement is very odd. For some reason they have two vents, one on either side of the tank, that extend down into the lower portion of it. Then those two vents are interconnected by a maze of hoses, check valves, Y's, carbon/charcoal filters, solenoids, etc. Eventually it all connects to the carb; on my Calif SMOG spec '79 in two places. Most of the connections and attachments were plastic and broken, the hoses rotted, the check valves stuck, the filter clogged, who knows what else. I think it could be greatly simplified by merging the two tank vents into one hose, going directly into the air filter housing or the carb if it has a suitable fitting for that.

I HIGHLY recommend that you pull the tank to check/clean it. Read the thread "dllubin" linked to see why.

Can't help you with the video stuff. But I notice some threads have a video right in the thread, not linked externally. So there must be a way to include it in a post.
Click to expand...
I think the two vents may be for dealing with rollover situations and ensuring there is a vent regardless of which way you roll. I have the canister connections to the carbs capped of. The only connections I am using are the one from the 3 way valve and the big one on the bottom that originally vented under the exhaust heat shield (now just vents to engine compartment).

I did not have any info on how this site handles video so when I posted one, I just uploaded it to a web server and provided a link.
 
I always get a laugh at things like vents designed for rollovers. If the X rolls over you won't be alive to care if it catches fire. :D

I'm not as conscientious as Andrew and removed all of the smog stuff (but I am honestly proud of him for caring more than I do). So I removed/eliminated one of the two tank vents and the other one connects to the fuel filler neck near the cap (with just a few inches of hose). Everything else is gone. But understand that my '79 (carb) model with full Calif smog spec equipment had a shat TON of hoses, valves, tees, solenoids, filters, switches, controls, check valves, canisters, attachments, connections, and sooo much more. And that's in addition to the EGR, AIR, PCV, catalyst, and all of the other shat ton of related components. I honestly could not get access to anything on the engine or even in the engine bay due to all of it. It is simply beyond belief how different it is after removing all of that. Swap to a Euro exhaust manifold with custom exhaust, Weber DCNF carb and air filter, and it is like a complete rebirth.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top