Leaking Clutch Master Cylinder?

79X19

79X19

True Classic
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I think I have a Clutch master cylinder problem. Good to have it now as I have the interior completely ripped out. I noticed today that the floor pan, which I had completely refinished, had what looked like a wet spot on it. I went to wipe it up and the paint came off with it. So I figured I've got a problem. In looking at the brake and clutch master cylinders the clutch looks to be like the culprit. Take a look a the pics and see if you agree. So with that determined I would assume that I need to replace it. Can anyone point to a prior thread that completely outlines how to do this? Also should I do the brake cylinder at the same time? One last question should I change out the hoses coming from the brake and clutch reservoirs at this time as well and get it out of the way??
 
Looks likely. I would pull back the rubber boot and see if its wet inside, it could be a leak from the supply hose instead.

Bernice has the best thread for doing the pedal box system. Its a very complete thread.
 
The answer to all your questions is Yes. This repair is a required course in X-101!
I had the same issue about 12 years ago and I went with replacing both cylinders, replaced all hoses to the reservoirs, replaced both reservoirs, rebuilt the pedal box, got brake fluid on my face, hair and eyes...You only want to visit that site once. Access is the biggest issue. Removing the steering wheel and drivers seat helps a lot. Be very careful not to strip the brake line connections and you should be OK. I bought blue Volkswagen brake hoses from Summit (I forget what size), and all new clamps. I did the whole thing by myself and I spent a week-end rebuilding just the pedal box and the next week-end putting it all back together.

Good luck!
 
In my opionion the M/C replacement is the worst job on an X. I've done it several times now, first time I used the "pull the drivers seat and lay on my back with my feet over the targa bar and head under the pedal box position". As noted this may lead to brake fluid in the face/eyes/etc. It also drains all the blood from your legs to your head, and is not really as comfortable as one might think.
The method I employ now is to raise the car as high as possible on all four corners, then kneel next to the drivers door and work under the dash from there. It's still awkward, but you can see just as well, and you avoid the baptism with brake fluid. Be sure to place copious rags on the floor to catch drips.

Best bet if this is the first time this car has had the M/C RnR is to pull the entire pedal box and work on it out of the car.
 
Some will remove the seat, place a board long enough to lie down on across the drivers door opening with a support outside to keep the board level and work lying down without your feet in the air.
 
Thanks for all the great info! Thanks for the support. I'm doing a major overhaul on the complete car. Eventually I'll have the motor pulled and refreshed and the paint work completely redone so I don't want to scrimp now. Ill do the full Monty on both the cylinders, brake lines and look to refresh the pedal box. How do I know if the Reservoirs need replacing?
 
The reservoirs typically dry up and crack along the top. Look for weak areas as you twist the cap on and off. There are several substitutes you can use if you cannot find OEMs. Just ask in the For Sale section.
 
IMG_4787.JPG IMG_4797.JPG IMG_4805.JPG IMG_4813.JPG IMG_4814.JPG IMG_4859.JPG IMG_5368.JPG IMG_5583.JPG IMG_5586.JPG IMG_5616.JPG So this Started with a leak and paint stripping on the floor pans that I had already previously reworked :mad: After consuming all of the advice from members (Thank you) and reading the multiple threads on the subject I have completed the rebuild of the pedal box. Here are some pics of my progression. You can see by the pics I had all the symptoms of a failing pedal box. Leaking hoses, leaking clutch master, tired pedal bearing, corroded parts and destroyed paint. I bought all new parts from MWB including new Clutch and Brake masters, New Hoses & Clamps, New bearing. Removed all the rust via wire wheel and naval jelly then decided that didn't look good so I had the parts blasted and powder coated. Wasn't cheap but it looks good and will be durable for years to come. I think you'll like the results, I know I do!! Everything moves as it should, it's all greased up and ready to get back in the car. Now on to the bleeding process....Ugh....then the speedo cable, accelerator cable, installing rebuilt front calipers, installing new flexible brake lines all round, installing my Texas heat rad etc etc etc..... Its never ending but I love it.
 
Looking good now! Just be careful reinstalling the line flare nuts - don't rush. If you cross-thread one it will be a bugger.
 
Thanks! I will be careful not to rush the process. Don't want to get this far and shooting myself in the foot.
 
79X19 said:
Thanks! I will be careful not to rush the process. Don't want to get this far and shooting myself in the foot.
Click to expand...

My suggestion would be to use antiseize on all of the flare nut threads. I used a q-tip to apply sparingly and accurately, but a very small artists paintbrush, or a toothpick, would work. Apply to only the flare nut threads that will be in engagement with the female threads, that way there's less of a chance of contaminating the fluid and making a general mess (which I always seem to do with antiseize, that stuff gets everywhere!).
 
Thanks Dan. I'll make sure to use anti seize.
Congrats to the Eagles, you guys beat my Pats. It was a good game to the end!
 
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