My turn to wrestle with head removal

Keep at it with penetrating oil + wiggling CCW & CW, as the wiggles can be increased, the odds of broken screw removal is good.

Fun part will be figuring what to use when this all goes back together.

Bernice

Happy to report it's all back together, drove it this afternoon. I decided to go for a new set of the standard 61.5 lb-ft torque fasteners, using the 20/40/61.5 method. I did find a Goetze head gasket in my stash, though! Unfortunately I don't have the bolts to go with it for the '86 Bertone. I have run the Goetze gasket and TAA bolts on my hotrod '74 for many years with much success.

I ran the car to temp, couple of fan cycles, fixed a couple of leaks, then did the first retorque once it was back to full cold. I'll be re-torquing it again next weekend.
 
"Rope for the win!! What a great trick. You know, as a mechanical engineer, I should’ve known how well this would work."

Glad to hear it all worked out. I wonder if you might have used that same rope technique to hold the valves in the cylinder while replacing valve seals without removing the head? I've done it successfully on other engines. You'd still need to remove the cam box and tappets but could make the job far simpler.
 
"Rope for the win!! What a great trick. You know, as a mechanical engineer, I should’ve known how well this would work."

Glad to hear it all worked out. I wonder if you might have used that same rope technique to hold the valves in the cylinder while replacing valve seals without removing the head? I've done it successfully on other engines. You'd still need to remove the cam box and tappets but could make the job far simpler.

I was thinking the same thing. In this specific case though, I'm glad I pulled the head. Those broken head bolts were a blown head gasket waiting to happen, and the longer I left them in there the more they would have become stuck in the head and in the block. At 189,000 miles the valves really needed to be lapped anyway. Overall it worked out.
 
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