New Gas Tank Won't Fit

HeavyD

Daily Driver
I recently purchased a new gas tank and I cannot get it to fit. I have a 75 and 78 X and I can install either original tank in both cars almost one handed. Yes they slightly touch but no binding or resistance. The original tanks width measure 19 5/8 inches.
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The new tank is 20 1/8 inches,

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a difference of 1/2 inch. I am currently hitting on the brake and clutch line. It looks as though I could remove the end cap for the tunnel, disconnect the clutch line at the slave and the brake line at the 3 way junction and maybe push the lines down past the contour of the tunnel and into a small recess.


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However that leaves the contour the narrowest point and it measures at 19 7/8 inch.

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Has anyone else had this problem? Any tips, tricks? Thought about trying to roll the edges a little but the seam weld is too close to the edge, there just isn't enough material there to roll or bend without trying to roll or bend the seam.

Thanks, DeLaun
 
What about using a dull chisel to impart a shallow crease on the left chassis rail that would line up with the edge of the seam? With that plus some judicious re-arrangment of the hard lines it might sneak by. Oh, and some lube, too.
 
I don't recall ever hearing this issue before. Based on your measurements it sounds as if the new tank is improperly made. I can measure two tanks I have (a '79 and a '85) for comparison. If the new tank is indeed wider than any of the factory tanks then I'd return it for a refund and find one that is made correctly.
 
I just measured two factory tanks that are currently out of the cars. One is 19 5/8, the other 19 3/4. In the past I've had both installed in either car with no issues. The thickness will rub the insulation pads as they are slid in, but the width is no problem. Off hand I don't recall just how much room there is on either edge between the tank seams and the body, but overall they fit rather securely; it generally requires some shoving to get then it all the way.

Have you tried installing the new tank into the other X that you have? It might be possible the first X had some body damage at some point making that area slightly narrower. But the difference you noted from your measurements sounds like the issue is more with the new tank.

The new tank might have come from a batch that wasn't to spec. That can easily happen when parts are reproduced.
 
Time to have a chat with the vendor you bought it from. I have installed used and new gas tanks in Xs and never had a problem.
Hi Jim, Yes I talked to vendor, funny he said have you posted it on the forum? I didn't mention the vendor because I didn't want it to seem as though I was speaking negative about them. Should have included this with the first post. Matt in the Parts Department at VAS was great, said he would measure some of the tanks they had in stock to compare. Called back later and said that they ranged from 20 inches to 20 1/8 inches, But none under 20 inches. Asked if I would post this on the forum and see if anyone else has experienced the same issue as this is the first reported problem. Also said that in the end if I could not come up with a solution that they would ultimately return and refund my purchase amount. Hoping I can get it installed rather than returned.

What about using a dull chisel to impart a shallow crease on the left chassis rail that would line up with the edge of the seam? With that plus some judicious re-arrangment of the hard lines it might sneak by. Oh, and some lube, too.
Great minds think alike, my wife suggested this, and if I thought I could get it on the first try I would go for it but I don't want to miss it by THAT MUCH four or five times an leave a hack job. There are rub lines there where the tank rubs going in and out but which one is THE ONE? I appreciate the suggestion and it's still not completely ruled out.

I just measured two factory tanks that are currently out of the cars. One is 19 5/8, the other 19 3/4. In the past I've had both installed in either car with no issues. The thickness will rub the insulation pads as they are slid in, but the width is no problem. Off hand I don't recall just how much room there is on either edge between the tank seams and the body, but overall they fit rather securely; it generally requires some shoving to get then it all the w

Hi Jeff, Yes anything 19 3/4 and under will fit. Even with the brake and clutch lines in place.

Have you tried installing the new tank into the other X that you have? It might be possible the first X had some body damage at some point making that area slightly narrower. But the difference you noted from your measurements sounds like the issue is more with the new tank.

Not yet, one plan was to save it for the other car which needs to be stripped down and put on a rotisserie (because I'm not doing overhead welding) to take care of some rust issues. Was going to try it without the hydraulic lines and tunnel end cover not installed on the car. Then fight installing the said lines around the tank. It could be years......
 
Can you trim 1/8" off each side of the tanks? That sealed seam should be sealed well enough that 1/8" will not hurt it. Of course I am speculating here.
 
I installed the identical tank in my '75 from the same vendor not too long ago. I may have had to fiddle with the lines a little, but I don't remember any real difficulties with the install except that it was a bit tighter going in than the original tank, but it did fit without any surgery.
 
Have you tried installing the new tank into the other X that you have?

Update I tried the new tank in the '78 but no fit.

Can you trim 1/8" off each side of the tanks? That sealed seam should be sealed well enough that 1/8" will not hurt it. Of course I am speculating here.

That's about all you could cut off without cutting into the seam. I've thought about it but that's a lot of work and once performed non returnable.

I installed the identical tank in my '75 from the same vendor not too long ago. I may have had to fiddle with the lines a little, but I don't remember any real difficulties with the install except that it was a bit tighter going in than the original tank, but it did fit without any surgery.

Thanks for the reply. What did you do at the bottom where the straps go? Did you pre-bend the tab over or does tightening the straps fold it over?

Could you bend the tank flange over to reduce the width?

There is just not that much edge to before the weld. I'm guessing to bend the weld would be difficult and if you bent on the inside take the chance of damaging the weld and possible leak. However the tanks are bent over like that at the bottom where the straps go as mentioned in the above post.
 
Did you pre-bend the tab over or does tightening the straps fold it over?
I use an adjustable (crescent) wrench run up tight on the flange to put the bend in - just move a 1/4" at a time until you get the width you need. The flange is pretty stout and is completely horizontal and level when the tank is installed so bending it with the straps won't work. On my '74 I didn't bend the flange at all. The straps fit around the straight flange, but I did use contact cement to line the strap bottom with 1/8" neoprene.
 
I can't believe you guys are suggesting all these mods to the new tank. We are not talking about some aftermarket part like a trick exhaust that didn't come from the factory. This is a replacement part meant to fit just like the original. Send it back and get one from a different vendor.
 
I use an adjustable (crescent) wrench run up tight on the flange to put the bend in - just move a 1/4" at a time until you get the width you need. The flange is pretty stout and is completely horizontal and level when the tank is installed so bending it with the straps won't work. On my '74 I didn't bend the flange at all. The straps fit around the straight flange, but I did use contact cement to line the strap bottom with 1/8" neoprene.

Thanks, which method would you recommend?

I can't believe you guys are suggesting all these mods to the new tank. We are not talking about some aftermarket part like a trick exhaust that didn't come from the factory. This is a replacement part meant to fit just like the original. Send it back and get one from a different vendor.

I think this sums it up best.

Agree that this is certainly the #1 option on the list....

Agreed
 
Thanks, which method would you recommend?
Bending it slightly like the factory did is the quickest and easiest, but both ways are no problem so it's just a matter of personal preference. If you end up returning your tank, be sure to ask whatever source you use next to measure their current stock before ordering another. I would be very surprised if there is more than one manufacturer producing a repop tank for an X.
 
A valid point. You can have potential vendors measure for you. If they are all too big then I can see modifying your new one.
 
I suppose I will ask, what is wrong with the old tank? I have found that normally there will be a few bad spots and all I do is weld in a patch and pressure test and paint. The tank is out any way.

TonyK.
 
Bending it slightly like the factory did is the quickest and easiest, but both ways are no problem so it's just a matter of personal preference. If you end up returning your tank, be sure to ask whatever source you use next to measure their current stock before ordering another. I would be very surprised if there is more than one manufacturer producing a repop tank for an X.

That's good advice Thanks
I suppose I will ask, what is wrong with the old tank? I have found that normally there will be a few bad spots and all I do is weld in a patch and pressure test and paint. The tank is out any way.

TonyK.
I pulled the tank out following the New To You X1/9 To-Do List - Do it now or do it later guide and tank was full of goo. I couldn't get a good pic of the tank but here is the sender.
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Here is a pic shared by @dllubin of his tank and that's about what it looked like.

1974 Fiat X19 Gas Tank - 2018_08_29 - 3.jpg


In reading posts about cleaning gas tanks the chances of this one being saved was slim. So I pulled the fuel tank out of the '78 which has become a donor car of sorts. This tank was OK inside but rusted on the outside bottom where exposed. So here was my assessment of cost break down on the all 3 options.

1975 Tank.....................................................1978 Tank........................................................................... New Tank
3 gal muriatic acid @ $12.00 ea $36.00........ 3 gal phosphoric acid @ $18.00 ea $54.00....................Tank @ $159.00 ea $159.00
3 gal phosphoric acid @ $18.00 ea $54.00........ 1 qt por degreaser @ $17.00 ea $17.00....................Shipping @ $21.00 ea $21.00
2 cans spray primer @ 13.00 ea $26.00..........1 qt por metal prep @ $20.00 ea $20.00
2 cans spray paint @ 13.00 ea $26.00..........1 qt por paint @ $53.00 ea $53.00
1 can spray clear @ $13.00 ea $13.00
Total..............................................................$155.00........,,,Total..............................................................$174.00.......................Total..............................................$182.00

That's just cost not counting time involved. To me it was a no brainer. But if the tank doesn't fit?
 
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I have never seen a tank that bad. The new tank route if it will fit was a no brainer. Thanks for the pictures.

TonyK

Leaving Bob Martin's in Radcliff Kentucky.
 
That picture of my tank looked pretty bad but after cleaning it was all shiney metal under the deposits with zero rust. OxiClean dissolved the deposits quickly.
 
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