No re-start when hot.

don't know why....

they mounted the unit square to the box, then cut off the connectors, and solder to the module, they should have it mounted diagonally, where you don't have to cut off the spade plugs, and actually put plugs on it.....easier to fix on the side of the road- just sayin
 
Talking about not having the resister making the ICM go bad, now I'm trying to remember if I got a coil with an internal resister. How do I check that?
 
Yeah Kevin... I don't exactly know who "they" are...

but in this case (pun intended) it probably was NOT built professionally by our Far-East Manufacturing Division... with workers who have small hands.

Bob (the ham-fisted) probably built this hisself and is he coulda mounted the GM unit inside and used some female terminals... he woulda probably STILL soldered it together...

HA!

I remember Bob showing me this when he first built it so the ICM would just plug in place of the OE unit... and specifically said how much trouble it was to install as is.

If I were to build one of these, judging from Bob's fotos, I'd look for a way to mount the GM module in the case and not on the top. I would still use long wires as it would be easier to solder outside the box (or install terminals???) and then screw it down.

Being the OCD PURIST that I am, there now would be no screws displayed on the box cover... giving it the appearance that it was OE and unmolested. (HAHAHA!)
 
SO... YOU are saying that the drawing is WRONG...

and I AM CORRECT?

The ICM requires a clean +12 volts and NOT +9 volts coming from the BR.

(Dependent on the Coil Type, the BR can be removed if using a true 12 volt coil or remain in place if using an OEM factory-type coil.)

Again... the ICM requires +12 volts!
 
well

soldering does take away the chances of the wires coming off, and it's still a cool idea to keep the module "stock" looking and safe.....I'm just thinking down the road, about servicing, which btw, I've never had to change my HEI module for 20 years, BUT one time I though I had issues, and was able to switch it out easily to check it
 
how many licks does it take?

the world may never know...lol
Anyways if Jeff is building a different control module, then he'll know after he builds his project for sure...
And if it doesn't solve the no spark problem, then he'll know he burned up the coil
 
Yep... as long as the RH drain is clear...

and they don't soak too long in water... I have only seen ONE fail in 15 years on its own accord.
 
I just want a simple... yes or no... from Bob...

That's all.

I'm just saying the drawing is WRONG and should be corrected but not necessarily by Bob.

But you are RIGHT... I need to move on with my life... LOL!
 
The schematic is correct IF the coil is 12V on

the primary side. A stock X1/9 coil is NOT 12v on the primary side, hence the need for the resistor.
My Bosch box modification provides +12V to the module while the coil gets (say) <9v to the primary. (because of the resistor)
Just like the original setup, only using the GM module in it's (plug & play) place.

BTW, I was going to try to fit the module in the box at a 45 degree angle, but it still wouldn't make it without hitting corners.
Try it and you'll see what I mean. Also, (my opinion) soldering wires directly to the module made the most secure and reliable connection to the mating plug.

Leave it to Tony to notice I added 2 flat-head screws to the case to hold the GM Module in.
Hey Papa Tony, Newsflash... Hard core purists like yourself are likely gonna notice the peened-over corners (that hold the cover on) were replaced by Phillips head screws too. Ha! :hmm:
That's if you old codgers can twist yer head around the corner far enough to see it. :devil: Hey, at least I kept it all metric. Sheesh! :fart:

The cover (mounted to the Bosch box) provides adequate heat sinking under normal driving conditions, provided it sits flat against the metal surface and heat sinking compound is used.
 
Finally have everything I need and much of the prep work was done ahead of time, but I'm scheduled to be gone for a long weekend, so the rebuild will have to wait until next week.
 
Won't Start?

Sorry if someone already mentioned this - this is one long mother of a thread.
The first thing you MUST do is test for spark. No spark, no flame. That will definitively separate ignition from carb theories. That's not to say it couldn't be both but that's not very likely.
Without schematics and knowledge and test equipment it's difficult to determine who's at fault in the ignition system and so experimenting is often the only answer. As my snowmobile mechanic says, just keep putting in new parts until it works. Great!
My '82 FI had a heat-sensitive pick up coil in the distributor. Worked fine when cold but heat-soak led to an open circuit. It lives -or rather lived- under the plastic cover thing you see when you take off the distributor cap. I can't recall how it attached exactly but it was relatively easy to remove. It's just a coil of fine wire on a plastic form - I even considered rewinding one before I found a replacement in a Ferrari shop in Las Vegas.
A continuity check is enough - you can heat it gently in your oven (not the microwave!). If your coil is bad and you are really desperate you could mike the wire to check its gauge, unwind and measure it for length, then wind your own. It's not likely to be a particularly critical part but it might be really hard to find one.

Good luck
/wallyo
 
I finished the module rebuild last night, which went together pretty much like the directions indicated (huge thanks for the awesome tutorial, Bob Brown). I put it in tonight and it fired up just fine. I didn't have time to take it out for a spin, but let it idle until it got up to temp, shut it down and it started right back up, several times in fact. I can hopefully take it out tomorrow and get a more conclusive answer, but at least tonight it seems like it may have taken care of the problem.
 
Sounds great Jeff!

I hope this is the answer to your ignition problems.

Question: Did you use heat transfer compound (paste) underneath the HEI module? I'm asking because
that's an important part of insuring the module is properly cooled.
 
Congratulations... WHAT DO I WIN?

I'm sure that was the issue and if I were YOU, I would build or keep a spare ONBOARD. As long as I carry one, as well as my snow chains, it'll never fail or snow in Southern California.

Should I PM you my address or do you have it already?
 
RE: Heat sink paste

Of course I did, Bob, it was specified in your directions! I wouldn't think of deviating from them. That is, except for bending down the tabs on the HEI module instead of trimming them shorter. :laugh:
 
That's a difference with our little cars.

I have a 1963 Alfa Romeo spider. In that world, the concourse judges look at everything and deduct points for non-originality.

That means some folks have taken to pulling out the old voltage regulator, substituting new electronic internals, and replacing the voltage regulator in the car so that it appears to be 100% stock. That's a lot of work to bring the vehicle up to modern-day running standards and yet still keep your concourse car as close to 100 points as possible. :shock:

I like Bob's modification of the box and wouldn't mind a couple of screws in the top of the case or the four corners. It's much easier to just restore these car and have fun driving them. :)
 
Similarly...

What is the definition of originality? Does it only look original?

I know a guy who hid a starter relay in the frame, so his 356 would start reliably, but the relay had to be hidden as to not detract from "originality". Hmm, you mean the appearance of originality. Judges use mirrors to look for mods like this now.

I've also known people who put solid state VR parts inside the large housing of the old electro-mechanical VR. Sounds like work!
 
Yes, silly

That's a large part, from a certain perspective, of the high dollar car crowd.

As our cars move toward that part of the spectrum, it's my opinion that we will see an increase in people who are investment oriented and/or posers. They will often do silly things to keep an air of "originality" and, therefore, command the astronomical prices they want.

Originality? Wait until it becomes trendy to make over a base model into a factory premium model (not as typical for our cars as for other marques) Paraphrasing Bill G., a well respected Alfa guy, "Of the 750 cars produced by the factory, 2,736 still exist today."

While I'd love to get a high price for my X when it's time to find the next caretaker, having the car in the driver/enthusiast category (with associated lower prices) keeps it real for me. I can enjoy my car by driving it, not just having the staff keeping it polished and ready for trailer transport to the next show.
 
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