No re-start when hot.
- Thread starter Jeff N
- Start date
Jeff N
Your Mileage May Vary
Unfortunately, nothing new, been too busy with other stuff. I'm trying to source a new ignition switch, as some of the other problems I've read about point to the switch as a possibility. New ICM, distributor and coil haven't done it. I'm seriously running out of other things to try.
Jeff, hot wire it ...
Run a fused wire (10A should do it) from the Battery to the Bosch box harness... There's a Male banana plug on there that plugs into the brown/wht stripe wire that comes out of the fire wall.
You want the +12V to attach to the Male side. You don't need to connect the male plug to the female side if you hot wire it.
Don't leave the hot wire setup connected for more than a few minutes if the engine is not running, as the coil will get too hot.
This will prove out the ignition switch one way or the other. -Bob
Run a fused wire (10A should do it) from the Battery to the Bosch box harness... There's a Male banana plug on there that plugs into the brown/wht stripe wire that comes out of the fire wall.
You want the +12V to attach to the Male side. You don't need to connect the male plug to the female side if you hot wire it.
Don't leave the hot wire setup connected for more than a few minutes if the engine is not running, as the coil will get too hot.
This will prove out the ignition switch one way or the other. -Bob
sjmst
True Classic
I have a similar problem on my 82. Hot start issues. It's worth noting that occasionally the ignition switch seems to fail. That is, just a click or nothing. Takes a couple of tries to start the car. This may be related to the hot start problem, or just a coincidence.
Just to be sure
The connection runs from the battery to the lead going into the ICM (via its wire connection), correct? Mine has a female plug connected to the wire going to the ICM and the wire is not brown/white. It is normally plugged onto a male end wired with a brown/white wire, which comes out of the wiring harness. It makes sense to me to hot wire this thing from the battery directly to the ICM correct?
Robert
The connection runs from the battery to the lead going into the ICM (via its wire connection), correct? Mine has a female plug connected to the wire going to the ICM and the wire is not brown/white. It is normally plugged onto a male end wired with a brown/white wire, which comes out of the wiring harness. It makes sense to me to hot wire this thing from the battery directly to the ICM correct?
Robert
Jeff N
Your Mileage May Vary
Bumping this old thread to say that I think I just fixed my hot re-start issue a few minutes ago after WAY too long. I swapped out the coil to distributor wire with an old one I had, got the motor good and hot and re-started it a dozen times with no problems. So to sum up, I think I replaced the ICM, coil, condensor, ignition switch, distributor and ground wire, and never considered that the coil wire might have gone bad. Happy it's finally been solved, but shaking my head.
So Jeff ... did you put the suspect wire back into the ecosystem to prove you found the problem?? I am just double checking your work!
Good luck Jeff. I hope you found your problem.
sjmst
True Classic
Revisiting my '82's Hot Start Problem.
I replaced the coil, spark plug and coil wires, and ignition module.
I let the car idle for a half hour, got it up to running temp, and tried to restart.
After the new coil, bingo, started right up!
Problem solved? Nope.
The roads where dry and clean yesterday and I took it out for a drive.
Came home, turned it off, temp same as when idling and "whiirrr, whir " Eventually started after much protesting.
So, anyone have any idea as to what could cause this problem ONLY when the car is driven?
I replaced the coil, spark plug and coil wires, and ignition module.
I let the car idle for a half hour, got it up to running temp, and tried to restart.
After the new coil, bingo, started right up!
Problem solved? Nope.
The roads where dry and clean yesterday and I took it out for a drive.
Came home, turned it off, temp same as when idling and "whiirrr, whir " Eventually started after much protesting.
So, anyone have any idea as to what could cause this problem ONLY when the car is driven?
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
That's what I was thinking as I read the post...possible starter issue. The "happens after driving but not after idling" question may have no bearing. Often things like this may seem related but are really just more coincidental. Its difficult to try and get too "scientific" about it sometimes, too many variables at play.
sjmst
True Classic
The sound is like that of a nearly dead battery. Starter engaged but slow, labored cranking. Not ever the case when car is cold.
I tested it at idle several times. No problem unless driven.
I am wondering If the temp gauge doesn’t register the actual temp down by the starter area. As in transmission temp. Maybe starter building up heat resistance?
I tested it at idle several times. No problem unless driven.
I am wondering If the temp gauge doesn’t register the actual temp down by the starter area. As in transmission temp. Maybe starter building up heat resistance?
Put a meter on the starter connection and see what the voltage is when cranking cold and then check again when you experience the problem. If it is not showing 12v+ in both instances, you may need to clean up the connections and re-test. You could install a starter relay to get 12v to the starter more directly. Or it could be time for a rebuild of the starter, solenoid or maybe a new starter and solenoid.
My 78 had a starter that would fail on me after a drive with symptoms similar to yours. It was very frustrating, especially because I was usually in a parking lot somewhere. Using the starter knowledge learned working on my dad's Pontiacs, I decided to tap the starter with a hammer. So I would tap tap and try it, after a few tapping attempts it would catch like nothing was wrong. I found I could reach under from the passenger side and tap the starter case, so I kept a hammer behind the passenger seat. After playing with the starter and wiring for a few more weeks, I bought a rebuilt starter and never had the problem again. Obviously I can't say your issue is the same as mine, but that's my starter story.
My 78 had a starter that would fail on me after a drive with symptoms similar to yours. It was very frustrating, especially because I was usually in a parking lot somewhere. Using the starter knowledge learned working on my dad's Pontiacs, I decided to tap the starter with a hammer. So I would tap tap and try it, after a few tapping attempts it would catch like nothing was wrong. I found I could reach under from the passenger side and tap the starter case, so I kept a hammer behind the passenger seat.
After playing with the starter and wiring for a few more weeks, I bought a rebuilt starter and never had the problem again. Obviously I can't say your issue is the same as mine, but that's my starter story.
sjmst
True Classic
Thanks, Solenoid or entire starter?
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
I guess that might depend on which one is the actual cause of the problem (assuming this is 'starter' related and not some other issue), and the cost/labor to replace either.
Rod Midkiff
True Classic
both the starter and solenoid are removed as a unit (you would play hell trying to remove just the solenoid in the car)
From my towing background, I got a LOT of tows turned into a jump by taping on the starter (did not seem to make any difference on the make). some of the starter taps lasted for months before the starter quit totally. (my wife's Subaru developed an issue and she drove it for a year taping the starter about once a week (ish))
From my towing background, I got a LOT of tows turned into a jump by taping on the starter (did not seem to make any difference on the make). some of the starter taps lasted for months before the starter quit totally. (my wife's Subaru developed an issue and she drove it for a year taping the starter about once a week (ish))