No Spark in my Life

Andrew,

I found a 1300 coil and condenser in a box, but the dizzy that was with it was a Bosch with a electrical connector on the side. I don't think that goes with the 78, but maybe. It has probably been 7 years since I disassembled the car, so those memories are gone. Anyone know if there was a Bosch for the 78s? The was no ECU in the side pod, so I don't think the PO converted to electronic. (It is a 2 owner car, so I am No.2 so to speak)

There is no info stamped into the coils case, but I tried to get a couple pictures to show the markings on the top of the coil and the end of the condenser. I had issues with the lighting, but I think it can be made out.

IM003501.JPG 20180925_154749.jpg 20180925_154704.jpg
 
JimD said:
I found a 1300 coil and condenser in a box, but the dizzy that was with it was a Bosch with a electrical connector on the side. I don't think that goes with the 78, but maybe.
Click to expand...

The 1300X had a conventional points-type distributor, usually Ducellier or Marelli. The Bosch electronic ignition distributor was introduced on the '79 1500X engine.


JimD said:
There is no info stamped into the coils case, but I tried to get a couple pictures to show the markings on the top of the coil and the end of the condenser.
Click to expand...

The Marelli coil model number is shown on the top - BE200B. The Autovox "condenser" unit you have was used as a (radio) noise suppressor (often found on the Marelli electronic ignition system of '79-on Fiat 124 Spiders).
 
Jeff Stich said:
The 1300X had a conventional points-type distributor, usually Ducellier or Marelli. The Bosch electronic ignition distributor was introduced on the '79 1500X engine.




The Marelli coil model number is shown on the top - BE200B. The Autovox "condenser" unit you have was used as a (radio) noise suppressor (often found on the Marelli electronic ignition system of '79-on Fiat 124 Spiders).
Click to expand...

Thanks Jeff, this is what happens when you start projects, stop projects, stuff things in boxes to move to a new house and then try to find stuff years later. The box was labeled "1300 parts", but I think I must have tossed more in when I was moving in 2012. So, either I gave it away already, or somewhere there is a points distributor hiding in a box.
 
Status Update:

I cleaned and rebuilt the distributor and have spark. I am not sure what what issue there was besides the short I caused when trying to check voltages. It's all lubed up with white lithium grease. I installed and found both spark across the points, and then at the 4th plug to a engine bolt. I will still purchase a new set of points and possibly coil for backup.
 
Unless the coil is leaking externally, I would save your money. Also make sure it’s a real Bosch coil not bootleg if you do decide to get one
 
Dr.Jeff said:
Great news that it works. Curious what you did to rebuild the dizzy; complete tear down with new bushings, or clean up the advancer and such?
Click to expand...

I only rebuilt the top part of the dizzy. When checking for voltage I must have shorted something. With that I knew it had to come out even though that was my plan anyways. Reviewing the points there was definite material transfer. How this spark caused material to transfer but not other times, I don't know. In the future I will definite shop around for a pointless system but for now this is working.

Everything internal to the dizzy was removed and cleaned. A small dab of white lithium was applied to anything that moves. The advance system definite moves more freely. I did not touch the bottom geared end. I do believe mine has more vertical movement than it should. I think pressing is needed to correct but I will only do that if it becomes an issue.
  • Is there a spec on this anywhere: total vertical movement allowed?
My next question is, what to do with the toothed vacuum advance mechanism? I installed it in the same orientation as when it was removed, but would like to know how it shifts the advance curve and those effects when I really deep dive the tune.
 
Points tend to transfer material across their contact points even with normal use. Perhaps it finally got to be enough to eliminate the gap completely. I'd agree to remove them in favor of a electronic switching set up (like a Pertronix or similar).
There is quite a bit of vertical movement in the dizzy shaft. But it is taken up by the helical drive gear when it rotates. I don't know the spec, maybe in the factory workshop manual? Likewise for the vacuum advance adjustment.
 
AKimball92 said:
I only rebuilt the top part of the dizzy. When checking for voltage I must have shorted something. With that I knew it had to come out even though that was my plan anyways. Reviewing the points there was definite material transfer. How this spark caused material to transfer but not other times, I don't know. In the future I will definite shop around for a pointless system but for now this is working.

Everything internal to the dizzy was removed and cleaned. A small dab of white lithium was applied to anything that moves. The advance system definite moves more freely. I did not touch the bottom geared end. I do believe mine has more vertical movement than it should. I think pressing is needed to correct but I will only do that if it becomes an issue.
  • Is there a spec on this anywhere: total vertical movement allowed?
My next question is, what to do with the toothed vacuum advance mechanism? I installed it in the same orientation as when it was removed, but would like to know how it shifts the advance curve and those effects when I really deep dive the tune.
Click to expand...
I removed my vacuum advance years ago and am only using the centrifugal advance. I don't know about your distributor, but the one on the 74 is actually a vacuum retard, not advance. They gave the mechanical advance an extra 10 degrees to offset the vacuum advance at higher rpm. That complicated recurving the distributor because for most applications you only need 10 or 20 degrees of mechanical advance, not 30. When I recurved the distributor, I removed one stock spring and replaced it with a metal link to limit how far the advance could go (i.e. an infinitely strong spring with 10 degrees of slack). The other stock spring was replaced with a much weaker spring so I get full advance by about 3800 rpm.

As far as the movement issue goes, I would be worth checking the timing with a light and see if there is much jitter in the timing mark. Not sure if your eyes could tell if it was really good enough, but if it is bad, you might expect the mark to look a bit blurred.
 
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