... the 10 pounds per 1000 rpm.
Little OP is OK a idle, as it doesn't need much... and as for the accuracy... well that is all relative also.
You need to LEARN what the engine's baselines are that are INDICATED on this guage and use them as a reference point. Then if and when there is a variance... that would be the time to worry or do something. That's why IDIOT LIGHTS have some value...
Try and have more fun WATCHING the road... HA!
Agree 100% Tony. There may have been advances in oil technology over the years that have caused us to have to update our thinking about oil itself, but that old 10 pound per 1000 RPM rule still works great. AFAIC, oil pressure at idle is pretty much irrelevant, as long as you've got some.
I think most oil lights are set to come on around (or below) 10 psi, which is fine at idle when the bearing loads are lower. But you still want 80 psi at 8k RPM. And I agree 100+% about their usefulness-- I'm installing really bright idiot lights myself 'cause I can't be staring at the gauge and the exit of the corner at the same time.
From an engine builder's perspective, what has been left out of this discussion is the internal engine clearances, which are most important when discussing oil pressure/viscosities.
For whoever asked about the use of diesel oil, I suspect Tom is using it because of its higher ZDDP content. At least that's why I use Rotella T Synthetic (rated for diesel and gas engines alike) in my own cars. Not familiar with that blend of Redline but I expect it's great stuff and the viscosity range is excellent for summer use, although you'd sure wanna carefully warm the engine (or use lighter oil) if you run your car in the cooler months.
Tony, that's the second time in as many weeks that I've read one of your posts and nodded along in total agreement (I think the other was about carbs). Sheesh, I must be getting old. And "thrifty". ;-)
Cheers,
///Mike
(who uses Rotella T Synthetic 'cause he's too cheap to buy Redline)