Radiator??

Rupunzell said:
What are the possibility that the current after market water pumps are simply not as good as the OE FIAT water pumps?
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There's a REAL possibility. I did replace the pump with a new one, but the one I put in was an OEM factory replacement. When I looked at the replacement pump, it looked exactly the same.

Different however, is the housing for this pump. The housing, although (still) factory, accommodates the factory AC in the car and has a different shape. I DIDN'T measure the depth of the new pump.
I've been told that a small difference in depth on these pumps can yield a significant difference in circulation. (out of my depth of experience)
 
My Ultra-Hi Performance...

... REBUILT water pump came from Pep Boys... dusty and dirty off their shelf... 10 years ago... for less than 50 bucks.

Nothing but the BEST for Black Tooth... HA!

I don't recall ANY differences in it from the stocker but I did have to swap out pulleys...

When you complete your upgrade Bob, its gonna PROVE or DISPROVE your lack of circulaion theory... and only then will you and I be convinced that the stock water pump is the problem. I do hope you find a chance BEFORE you do this mod to up your idle to 1200 or so and see if this remedies the problem. It will be simpler than the mod and should ALSO prove the argument one way or the other.
 
Greg (in Conn) said:
Some months back when we were discussing Chris O. had about a 1/2 dozen or so new radiators and they were all snatched up. Anything stock now would have to be a recore I think???

The last couple NOS rads sold for $400 as well...
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I was surprised to read this, so I spoke with Rob about it today. He actually has two left, but you will need to sweet talk him to get him to let them go. I have two for my own projects, they are not for sale.
I guess I will need to get one of my core radiators over to the radiator shop so we can offer rebuilt units when the NOS ones are gone.

Wish the mufflers sold as well as the radiators.
 
I'll concur with Mark on this one on air being drawn in to the system as it cools thru a pinhole... as I have had exactly the same thing happen with several cars.

Car will hold pressure when hot no problems, but then the air bubble finds it's way into the top of the radiator and just stops the circulation, and/or causes a localised boil (due to the lack of pressure) which creates even more air! The pinhole is most often somewhere unfindable, like in the pipe tunnel.

Back in the day there was a clearance given for W/P impellor to the housing... all it would take is extra clearance here and I'm sure the pumping efficiency would be dropping like a stone.

And I've seen some amazing amounts of crud come out of blocks from supposedly well maintained cars...

Another thing people often forget is the acidic nature of glycol and some other coolant mixes when they gets old and oxidized... it can still look a pretty green but it can be doing more harm than good.

I would say that generally X19 's are well over capacity in the cooling system, here in Australia we get serious heat, and a good X19 cooling system won't get hot.

SteveC
 
I would almost agree...

Rupunzell said:
What is it about the many x1/9s I have owned that have not had cooling problems?

Maybe it's the environment, condition of the car or ?

Back in the day, I drove a 79' to So Cal. This car had a 1300cc head which upped the compression. This trip happened in the heat of Summer, like 100+ degrees. Climbing over the Grapevine is always taxing on any car in these conditions. Yet that 79's temp gauge never moved much pass 200 degrees F at just about full throttle going up hill. Then we drove the car to San Diego and back on Hwy 5 direct to the SF bay area in similar heat. No cooling problems..

All I have are personal experience with about seven X1/9 owned over 20+ years.. This is my only basis for what I speak.

What I do know is Bertone spent a lot of time testing to make sure the X would cool properly. This was one of the things they learned from building the Lambo Miura which has cooling problems.

I might be completely wrong.. or maybe I have just be lucky which says nothing about the experience of other X owners.

YMMV....
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Up until my latest X I would agree with Bernice and that I have had many X's and none ever gave me cooling issues. However my current 86 does exhibit some problems with cooling. I thought I had done a very thurough job on it as well; complete rad flush, new hoses and inspection of all steel lines, water pump etc. But still runs VERY warm in traffic. One thing to note this car does have AC equipment although AC does not work.

-Tim
 
Chris, If I could get

an ALUMINUM reproduction, I would buy it.
I'm guessing this would run around $750 (average east coast prices)
There is room behind the radiator to add an extra (or simply a deeper) core for better cooling, if the rad manufacturer feels heat transfer would be inproved. For us AC guys, expansion in the front is not an option. I would LOVE an aluminum repro.
 
bbrown said:
an ALUMINUM reproduction, I would buy it.
I'm guessing this would run around $750 (average east coast prices)
There is room behind the radiator to add an extra (or simply a deeper) core for better cooling, if the rad manufacturer feels heat transfer would be inproved. For us AC guys, expansion in the front is not an option. I would LOVE an aluminum repro.
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Actually... I have a quote from a reputable radiator mfg for around $500 ea. (Aluminum too!) if we get a group buy going. This does not cover shipping.

Also, whats all this hub bub about over temps in New England..? Mine wont go above 190* and I have a turbo..! :p
 
Mike, I have a donor

Radiator I can send out if this contact you have will make one NOW.
Lemme know....
 
I sold few from Zastava 1.6 73cmx36cm with one or 2 fan
is hard to find because only few cars come from factory before many years but is possible to find only radiator for cc180-185 euros(last price in juni) fan is cc105e with holder is possible to installed 2 ,same is used on racing yugo 1.6 with cc200hp with not problems
 
Hello Bob,

Here is a cross section drawing of the stock FIAT water pump with the impeller/housing spec. Keep in mind the gasket does compress a bit (not too much) and the finish on the impeller does make a difference in flow performance. Might want to check this on you water pump. Yes, the later AC version has a cast iron housing and looks completely different, but I suspect the specs are pretty similar. I should mention, the AC impellers came with both a M6 and M8 bolt drive pulley version which can cause problems with interchangeability.
waterpumpdwgfiat.jpg


All it takes is a tiny pin hole anywhere in the system to cause a lot of cooling system grief and if Murphy get's it's way, the pin hole leak will act as a one-way valve, allowing air to enter the system and hold pressure.

The addition of a swirl pot to purge air while the cooling system is running could help too. These are not too difficult to make and do work.

bbrown said:
There's a REAL possibility. I did replace the pump with a new one, but the one I put in was an OEM factory replacement. When I looked at the replacement pump, it looked exactly the same.

Different however, is the housing for this pump. The housing, although (still) factory, accommodates the factory AC in the car and has a different shape. I DIDN'T measure the depth of the new pump.
I've been told that a small difference in depth on these pumps can yield a significant difference in circulation. (out of my depth of experience)
Click to expand...
 
Gunked Up Blocks

I have a 1964 1/2 Ford Mustang that I got for a good deal because the coolant passages in the engine were so gunked up it would only run 30 minutes before it overheated. I had to completely disassemble the block and have it cleaned in an ultra-sonic cleaner to break up all the scale and corrosion in the cooling system passages. It now works like a charm.
Dave
 
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