Rear toe link sleeve

rx1900

rx1900

1981 X1/9
So...I took apart my rear toe link assembly to clean/paint/install new inner bushing.

Discovered that the female threads inside the sleeve were okay...but ONLY up to the point where the existing ends ended up. Past that point....I could see inside that there was a build-up or rust and "kaka" on the threads. Due - I suppose to that sleeve having a slot through which crap could accumulate over 40 years....

Thus.....the ends could only thread in that far and would stop at that point. I did not want to try to force it too much and risk damaging the male threads of the ends.

This...would limit the range of toe adjustment...to no more than where it sat now. I could adjust for more toe-in....but not less....if I ever wanted to. Certainly not an ideal situation !!!

New sleeves seem to be pretty tough to find.. Used ones would likely have the same issue as I am having...

My current thinking is to try to run a tap in there to try to clean up the threads past that point. Anybody done that ??

Problem is....it seems to be a very odd thread. Seems to be M16 x 1.0. Can anybody confirm that ? No tool suppliers around here stocks that size. And to make matters worse...of course one end of the sleeve is a normal RH thread...but the outer end is a LH thread .....way tougher to find a LH tap.

Before I try to order - at considerable expense and time lag - some taps I will most likely use only once - does perchance anyone out there local to here happen to have some I could borrow/rent ??

Thanks, Doug
 
M16x1.00 tap/die set:
www.ebay.com

US Stock HSS M16 x 1mm Tap & M16 x 1.0mm Die Metric Thread Right Hand M941 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for US Stock HSS M16 x 1mm Tap & M16 x 1.0mm Die Metric Thread Right Hand M941 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com

Inquire about left hand set from the same seller.

Know the adjustment sleeve is slit with a compression clamp to hold the adjustment. If a tap is run into the slit sleeve, the internal thread dimensions will depend on how tight that clamp is put on. Be well aware of this if a tap is run into this slit sleeve.


Bernice
 
rx1900 said:
So...I took apart my rear toe link assembly to clean/paint/install new inner bushing.

Discovered that the female threads inside the sleeve were okay...but ONLY up to the point where the existing ends ended up. Past that point....I could see inside that there was a build-up or rust and "kaka" on the threads. Due - I suppose to that sleeve having a slot through which crap could accumulate over 40 years....

Thus.....the ends could only thread in that far and would stop at that point. I did not want to try to force it too much and risk damaging the male threads of the ends.

This...would limit the range of toe adjustment...to no more than where it sat now. I could adjust for more toe-in....but not less....if I ever wanted to. Certainly not an ideal situation !!!

New sleeves seem to be pretty tough to find.. Used ones would likely have the same issue as I am having...

My current thinking is to try to run a tap in there to try to clean up the threads past that point. Anybody done that ??

Problem is....it seems to be a very odd thread. Seems to be M16 x 1.0. Can anybody confirm that ? No tool suppliers around here stocks that size. And to make matters worse...of course one end of the sleeve is a normal RH thread...but the outer end is a LH thread .....way tougher to find a LH tap.

Before I try to order - at considerable expense and time lag - some taps I will most likely use only once - does perchance anyone out there local to here happen to have some I could borrow/rent ??

Thanks, Doug
Click to expand...
What about removing the toe link from the a-arm, removing the clamps and the end joints, and soaking it in evaporust for an extended period of time. You wouldn't even need to take the joints off, you should be able to just turn the sleeve until the end joints run themselves out of the sleeve. If you have access to a blasting cabinet, you could shoot the media stream thru the slit. Something like a fine glass bead or anything less aggressive than that should go a long way to break up the rust and kaka.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the replies.

As far as I could see....not a single M16 x 1.0 LHT tap on Ebay from North America. And note even the RH listing Bernice gave will NOT ship Canada. Yup...lots from China....but these days it seems at least 3 months delivery to here in Canada.

and Dan...yes the whole toe link assembly is off the car and totally dismantled. And yes...I have a blast cabinet with glass beads. Good idea to at least try that !! I've never used Evaporust - have you ?

Guess i am hoping.....someone around here has been to this rodeo before and have the taps sitting lonely in their toolbox......
 
Try using a fine wire brush on the part if no proper cutting tools can be had. Problem is likely due to corrosion and gooo build up on the threads. Once it has been cleaned up and ok, apply lots of good nickel based anti-sieze to both internal and external threads before assembly. Might have a spare.. I'll look if needed. BTW, same part used on the Lancia Scorpion-MonteCarlo.

The radical fix would be drill out the tapered holes on the upright and replace the entire assembly with LH-RH rod ends and proper length threaded tube and lock nuts.


Bernice
 
Rupunzell said:
Try using a fine wire brush on the part if no proper cutting tools can be had.
Click to expand...

Thank you. i'll try that.....but the build-up looks too hard for that.

Rupunzell said:
Once it has been cleaned up and ok, apply lots of good nickel based anti-sieze to both internal and external threads before assembly.
Click to expand...

I certainly will

Rupunzell said:
Might have a spare.. I'll look if needed. BTW, same part used on the Lancia Scorpion-MonteCarlo.

The radical fix would be drill out the tapered holes on the upright and replace the entire assembly with LH-RH rod ends and proper length threaded tube and lock nuts.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the offer....most kind of you !!! But I will be okay somehow. BTW...same part also used on some Fiat trucks of the same era, haha. No need for a radical fix.......

i'm sure I'm not the first here to face this problem...and wont be the last LOL....

Barring a miracle...I'll likely just order some cheap taps from China and wait it out. By the way....bunch of different tap type ( plug, taper, bottom ) available. Any real big difference what type I order for this situation ?

Thanks, Doug
 
Soaking in good penetrating oil for days can do wonders on loosening up this crud. Do this before trying any mechanical means for crud removal. This is where applying time, not rushing makes all the difference.

As for taps, they must be machine shop quality, ground to size and no less than high speed tool steel. Some of the cutting tools from China today is not bad at all for their cost. Given you're not doing production, a high quality cutting tool made in China or India should be OK. As for tap style, plug is the most common, taper is for trying to start threading a hole with no guide (seldom works good), bottoming is to finish up the threaded hole to the bottom of the hole. Bottoming taps don't do well trying to start cutting threads as they are not designed to do this. Essentially, a plug tap is what ya want.

Same applies to dies. Re-threading dies commonly found with a hex shaped body are usually not for threading. Re-threading dies are designed for cleaning up threads, not making threads. Best external threads are rolled, then single point cut on a lathe (can be good if done properly with good cutting tools, cutting fluid, lathe settings and GOOD machinist skill on a GOOD lathe), then made with a die.


Bernice
 
I second the ideas of trying rust removal products (Evaporust, etc), blasting, wire brushing, soaking. Once it is cleaned up you might be able to work the threaded rod end in and out enough to chase the threads. Especially if there may not be any need to thread them beyond where they were (do you know if less toe-in is required yet?).

If you find that less toe-in is required, and you need to resort to tapping them to allow it to go shorter, you may get away with only a RHT tap. I'm sure finding a LHT one that size will be quite difficult. My thought is assemble it with the RHT side screwed further into the sleeve first, and the LHT side at its midpoint. Then you can adjust the length from there, with the two ends of the adjustment being slightly asymmetrical as it were.
 
Hey Doug, I just took a closer look at the eBay seller that was linked earlier. He does not list a LHT tap in that size. He does offer just the tap (RHT) without the die for $8.99. But as you say they don't ship to Canada. If it comes down to it we can have it sent here and I'll forward it to you.

One method that is easy to do is mount a round "bottle brush" style S/S wire brush in a drill and run it through the sleeve.
 
My “go to” solution for removing rust is muriatic acid. You can get it at a hardware store in the pool chemical section. I usually dilute with about 50% water and emerge the part in it to remove the rust. Muriatic acid is pretty nasty stuff so use the usual PPE and don’t leave the container open or the fumes will reek havoc on things nearby, especially chrome. If you can remove the rust from the threads the parts should go back together easily with a little lubricant.

Brian
 
Or the weaker "phosphoric acid" works well also. A little safer on the metal but takes longer to remove the oxidation. Nice side benefit is the reaction leaves a phosphate coating that helps protect the otherwise raw metal surface.

I've never tried the "safe" rust removal soaks (EvapoRust types). I have some but haven't used it. I did try another rust removal product that claimed to be safe for all metals and wouldn't harm the substrate. I put a rusted lock cylinder in it and let it soak for the time suggested on the label. Came back to find only the little tumbler keys sitting in the bottom of the jar - nothing else was left ot the lock.
 
One thing I have done to clean up an internal thread is to file a notch or 2 onto the end of the male thread so it's like a cutting edge of a tap, screw it in a little bit at a time with some lubricant. Would probably be best after you have used some penetrine or something to soften the rust.
 
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I have a tool that looks abit like this one

www.carbideanddiamondtooling.com

NES22 Internal Thread Repair Tool 1/2

www.carbideanddiamondtooling.com

you insert it down into the threaded hole, adjust it so the single cutting tooth is in the root of the thread, and then you slowly wind it upwards.

I had exactly the same situation, but my issue was powdercoat had got thru the slot and into the threads, RHT side was easy enough as a thread tap cleared the powdercoat excess away easily, but I waas stuck on the LHS... I also has the same problem with some Alfa tie rod sleeves that are 14 x 1.5 thread too and this worked on those too.

SteveC
 
Tough to photo...but above is what I am dealing with. And that is after shooting the glass bead blaster down the inside of the sleeve....

Don't laugh too hard.....likely most of yours are just as bad......
 
Twenty years ago, I had the sleeves chromed. It's barely noticeable on the pic because of the flash.
Just to avoid rust. A little dirty now, but still looking good.
20200921_221649.jpg


But I also got some parts from a race car and I may try them on... when my car will be back on the road. Not sure I got a range of adjustment to get it shorter.
20200921_221413.jpg
 
I understand your desire to remove the rust, but are you sure that you need the additional adjustment? Seems like a lot of work to be able to get more toe out. If you need more adjustment you could simply cut the thread end of the ball joint down a bit. Make them shorter by an 1/8" or so?
 
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