Rear toe link sleeve

I agree, likely many or most X's have the same issue of corrosion in those sleeves. Much like all of the rusted and frozen bolts everywhere.
 
YOU cost me a $35 trip to Princess Auto. I'd still be sleeping with one eye open if i were you.....😰

hahah - every time I go to Princess Auto for something that's on sale, I leave with tons of other crap that I didn't go for - AND I end up forgetting the thing I went for! Perfect excuse for a second trip!


I'll be going through my parts in the next few days - I certainly have a few Canadian weathered tie rod sleeves that are quite bad - and unfortunately, no I don't have a tap like that! :)
 
Update....

Well.....after soaking the sleeve for several days in Evaporust......almost success. The un-used threads were MUCH better. I'll try and post some pics later. I actually could get the ends to thread almost all the way in now......but they did expand the sleeve a bit as they went in as the threads were still not perfect.

I actually feel that with perhaps using the GregS suggestion of slotting the ends of the male tie rod threads - to clean out the threads a bit more - it would be "okay" . But just "okay".....so I didn't try that...

Instead...I broke down and ordered some taps and dies. Having to come from China - the only place I could find them. That will likely take a couple of months at least. But then the job will be done 100% properly. I like that....

Since I was ordering anyway...i ordered both taps and dies in both LHT and RHT so I could clean up the threads on all parts of sleeve and tie rod ends. And what the heck...I also ordered M14 x 1.5 and M12 x 1.25 taps and dies...to be able to clean up the threads on all the other suspension components like bolts and ball joints. And even the appropriate die handles. I even ordered 2 of everything......

i'm quite sure.....most X1/9s have the same issue...you just dont know it yet...until you decide to rebuild the suspension as part of a restoration or refresh. I would think rather pointless to rebuild the suspension and then not be able to adjust the toe !!

Theory is.....there will soon be 2 kits of all the taps and dies you would ever need... to.be available for rental or simply just buy one kit from me and resell them to the next guy who needs them. Taps and dies you will likely only use once so we can just pass them along to the next guy. And end up only costing you a few bucks.....

As for the Evaporust...well I'm happy to report the stuff is simply amazing !!! I tried it on a variety of rusty Fiat parts. VERY pleased with the results. See the pic below of some results. Note the untouched wheel spacer for comparison. Most really rusted parts came out like almost new. They look better in person than in the pics. So easy to use...no more wire brushing/wire wheels/sanding/blasting. Just soak the part in a bucket or jar of Evaporust. It does in reality take a bit longer than they suggest...I found 48 hours for most parts. But hey....we are dealing with Fiat rust here.

I actually found that on the really rusty stuff....it worked best to first clean them a bit first - remove grease and stuff - and just totally submerge the part in a pan of Evaporust. After 24 hours or so.....remove the part and give it a quick wire brushing and then rinse it well in water. Then submerge back in the Evaporust for another 24 hours. Repeat as needed.

The stuff is even non-toxic. You can stick your hand in it. Does not smell bad...but there is a wee bit of odor to it. Seems to work better and quicker the warmer it is.

In the USA , seems to be available at Harbor Freight. Maybe Home Depot too.

In Canada....available at Princess Auto. Regular $35 Canadian a gallon.....but on sale now until Sunday only for $24.99.!!!!


IMG_5224.JPG
 
I took one look at my old crusty toe links, and made new assemblies. There are plenty of other things to clean up and repair, this was easier to just make new parts. But you seem to be making great progress with making these look new again.
 
Pics after soaking in Evaporust below. Compare these to the pics on the first page. The threads are now much better....but still not quite good enough for me.....
IMG_5284.JPG


IMG_5289.JPG


See next post for the proper solution....
 
While rust can be removed, removal does not replace the steel (iron ore) that has dissolved and gone away. There are micro-cracks associated with the rust-corrosion process that can result in growth of a crack (corrosion induced stress riser) that can result in a catastrophic failure of the part when least expected.

Possible to source better condition replacements or make a replacement coupler sleeve?

Bernice
 
There was really only one PROPER solution to this problem. So I ordered in a bunch of proper taps and dies:

IMG_5307.JPG


Zoom in on the box for the die handle......if their name is not strange enough.....I still dont understand their motto......

After expedited shipping...I think I have now tilted the Canada/China trade balance....

But...it was worth it...the result:
IMG_5299.JPG


After chasing all the threads on the sleeve and inner and outer ends....the ends now thread smoothly all the way into the sleeve easily. Looks better in person than in the pics. But compare that to the pics on the first page.

Success !!!!

I'm quite sure many of the X1/9s out there have the same problem. You just dont realize it..... and wont until you go to do an alignment and find out that the sleeves wont adjust past their current position........

These taps and dies were quite difficult to obtain. As they are a very odd metric thread...and you need both LH and RH threads. I could not find them in North America. I actually ordered two of everything. And will make a set available for rental to those of you in need. See my separate post in the FSW section:

Cheers, Doug
 
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@rx1900

Ahhh!! CIRCLE MOLAR - WRING THE HAND!


Almost as good as "Power Fist"!!! :) (most Canadians would get the reference!)


Excellent work!!
 
Looks good Doug. I was lucky with mine, in that the threads were in decent shape. After a soak in muriatic acid they cleaned up nicely. I ended up painting them with an automotive 2 part black paint that I brushed on. I also replated the hardware with yellow zinc. For the most part the underside of may car looks better than the top.

The rubber boots on my toe link ball joints are cracked in a few places, but I noticed that MWB now carries them. Do you know of a local source for the boots?

Brian
 
@rx1900

Ahhh!! CIRCLE MOLAR - WRING THE HAND!


Almost as good as "Power Fist"!!! :) (most Canadians would get the reference!)


Excellent work!!

Yep:)

Just go to "Princess Auto" to get "Power Fist". Sounds like something from an Austin Powers movie (another Canadian). Jeez, what do people from other countries think of us. 🙄

Brian
 
The rubber boots on my toe link ball joints are cracked in a few places, but I noticed that MWB now carries them. Do you know of a local source for the boots?

Brian

I think those MWB boots are just generic slip-over boots...

But.......I have ordered a small batch of proper OE style boots. They are in transit. PM me for more info if you want.....
 
Doug, I have an extra sleeve another forum member gave me and I would be happy to send it to you for free, just pay the cost of packaging and shipping. Let me know I can send you a photo as well and I have reconditioned and treated it with an oil coat to prevent any flash rust.
Thanks
Tom
 
Doug, I have an extra sleeve another forum member gave me and I would be happy to send it to you for free, just pay the cost of packaging and shipping. Let me know I can send you a photo as well and I have reconditioned and treated it with an oil coat to prevent any flash rust.
Thanks
Tom

Thank you Tom for the kind offer...but I am good now !! My sleeve is still quite solid and strong....it looks much better than it appears in the pics. It will work fine....

Your kindness is much appreciated though. Doug
 
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