RED X19

You only need to worry about the cam mark for your ignition timing. You can see that if the rotor arm is pointing to 4 in your earlier photo, you have incorrectly written "1" for the no. 4 contact. If you had the timing correct with the rotor arm pointing as shown, this is how I think it should look.
Janis 1.jpg
 
It is possible to fit the flywheel 180 degrees out, making the mark on its edge useless. In this case you have to rely on the crank pulley mark.
 
Tried to align distributor using another bmw e30 ignition coil and sparkplug. Cylinder nr4 on TDC. Fixed it at position where was spark. Don’t know how well did it.
Do I have to count cylinders order from timing belt side to gearbox side?

Thanks for patience!
 

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1-3-4-2 would be plug wire sequence at cap, starting from cyl 1 at crank pulley end of engine.

Dist rotor points to #4 with cyl #4 @ TDC only for initial dist. install.
 
Than it’s correct now,thanks.
Have to replace or at least check for leaks oil radiator, after that am going to crank it.
 
Sounds like you have it straightened out. As others already stated; flywheel can be mounted 180 out on crankshaft (in which case marks on flywheel won't match), cylinder #1 is at timing-belt end, set timing to cylinder #4 (flywheel end). Did it start?
 
Sounds like you have it straightened out. As others already stated; flywheel can be mounted 180 out on crankshaft (in which case marks on flywheel won't match), cylinder #1 is at timing-belt end, set timing to cylinder #4 (flywheel end). Did it start?

Need to finish oil system before start, leaking oil rad, and install coolant pipes to front+radiator(which I don’t have yet that fits, or ~fits. Ah and put in fuel tank. And should clean injectors. :D I hope that’s all
 
Brake bleeding screws..
From UT caliper got out broken bleeding screw pretty easy with torx bit.
With rear X19 caliper - half day problem, in the end cleaned thread with thread drill, and after that with bleeding screw damaged that aluminum.

What are Your suggestions - go to next M10x1 size, or put in that repair spiral?
 

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go to next M10x1 size, or put in that repair spiral?
That should work. M10 is common size for bleed nipple. If the current damaged M8 hole has enough material remaining, possibly drill and tap the hole to M10 without needing a repair spiral?

Bleeding the X's brakes is "screwed" any way. :)
 
4525A90F-B241-4B8F-8909-71343F2A3543.jpeg
On the left from 1985 UT oil pressure sender
On the right from 1986

Diference is where is written info, same Veglia manufacturer.
I understand that one takes ground from engine, earlier one could had his own ground.
 
The threaded boss in the foreground is not used. The screw further up is the coolant drain plug and just above it but hidden in the shadow will be the low oil pressure switch. The oil pressure sender units should have a wire attached and a plastic cover over the copper terminals. They always get damaged when taking engines out!
 
The threaded boss in the foreground is not used. The screw further up is the coolant drain plug and just above it but hidden in the shadow will be the low oil pressure switch. The oil pressure sender units should have a wire attached and a plastic cover over the copper terminals. They always get damaged when taking engines out!

I put sender from 1986 UT with one wire, it at least had left plug, where to attach wire (grey/red).
 

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Looks like the short oil filter works.

As for the two oil pressure senders. Both ground the sender's body to the engine block. The one with two wire terminals should have two wires connecting, one to each terminal, but neither are ground. One wire signals the warning light on the dash, and the other wire goes to the pressure gauge on the dash. If you use the sender with only one wire terminal, it depends on how the sender is made if it should go to the light or to the gauge (different senders are made to do either function). But they are not inter-changeable, meaning if the sender is made for a warning light it will not work connected to a gauge, and vice-versa. And if the wire-harness was made for a two-wire sender, and you are using a single-wire sender, then the extra wire from the harness will not go anywhere (and that function...either the light or the gauge...will not work). Sorry if this is confusing, maybe a picture will help:

index.php


This picture may also be difficult to read because they put all the labels too close and too large...let me know if it is unclear. Note the correction on the picture; wire to warning-light should be +.
 
Looks like the short oil filter works.

As for the two oil pressure senders. Both ground the sender's body to the engine block. The one with two wire terminals should have two wires connecting, one to each terminal, but neither are ground. One wire signals the warning light on the dash, and the other wire goes to the pressure gauge on the dash. If you use the sender with only one wire terminal, it depends on how the sender is made if it should go to the light or to the gauge (different senders are made to do either function). But they are not inter-changeable, meaning if the sender is made for a warning light it will not work connected to a gauge, and vice-versa. And if the wire-harness was made for a two-wire sender, and you are using a single-wire sender, then the extra wire from the harness will not go anywhere (and that function...either the light or the gauge...will not work). Sorry if this is confusing, maybe a picture will help:

index.php


This picture may also be difficult to read because they put all the labels too close and too large...let me know if it is unclear. Note the correction on the picture; wire to warning-light should be +.
Thanks for so simple language, in this time didn’t need to translate any word :D

In wiring loom from 1985 UT there was only one wire left in engine bay- gray/red - for that pressure sender. But sender has two terminals. I don’t believe that the other wire has been cut.
There is original gauge for oil pressure. It’s late at the moment and hard for me to understand electrics..how that unit can show pressure from one wire.
As Rachael said, there in shadow is another sender for “low pressure warning light”.

Both senders 1985 and 1986 has Fiat and Veglia stamps and same other info. (All UT has had oil pressure gauge in instrument cluster).

I’ll finish soon working on car today and go check wiring diagrams in manual. (I don’t know which exactly UT manual it is, orange or the other, mine is in grayscale:D)
 
As Rachael said, there in shadow is another sender for “low pressure warning light”.

O.K., there are two separate senders on the engine block? The one you showed and another one that was hidden in the shadow? If so, then I think it should be like this (hope one of the UT experts can confirm):

The sender in the shadow (described as for the warning light) will have one wire to it. That wire goes to the dash warning light and tells you when the oil pressure gets dangerously low (last minute warning).

The sender you show in pictures would also have only one wire to it and is for the gauge on dash. This tells you the actual oil pressure all the time (constant moving). Therefore this sender should be the one with only one terminal on it (see photo below).
4525A90F-B241-4B8F-8909-71343F2A3543.jpeg


Both senders in photo above will fit the block, both will have a terminal for the gauge, so either could work. However if you use the one with TWO terminals, then need to determine which terminal is for the GAUGE (other terminal will be for the light, but not used here because the light has a separate sender...in shadow). The writing on the these two senders will be very similar because they are very similar senders...but one has extra function (not needed here). If the sender with two terminals was in the engine block, then either it was installed in a car with a different wire harness (two wires to this sender and no second sender in shadow), or a previous owner installed the wrong sender...should have been one with only one wire.

I am guessing the OTHER sender for the warning light (hidden in shadow) will be a small type, looks kind of like this:
m2_MVHfcSOJzD0yWU3lvKuQ.jpg


So if your wire harness has one wire that reaches the large sender (in your pictures), and one wire that reaches the small sender (hidden in shadow, looks like last picture), then you are good....connect one wire to each sender. If the warning light and pressure gauge both do not work correctly when connected this way, it could be possible the two wires are reversed; swap them between the two senders and see if the gauge and light work correctly. Both use the engine block for ground and both connect this ground through the sender to the wire connected to it (neither is positive), so no chance of short circuit here. The small sender (in shadow) is a "open or closed" connection...when oil pressure drops below a pre-set level, the sender connects the ground to the light on the dash (other wire to dash light is positive). The large sender (in your pictures) has a "variable" connection...as oil pressure changes, the amount of resistance from the ground changes, this gives the gauge a variable negative signal to display (the other wire to the gauge is positive).
:)
 
it may explain why it wasn't tightened, and pretty dirty around it with oil. (that with two terminals from 1985 UT)
Thanks, now I understand how it works - variable negative signal- what it does mean, not yet.
had installed that with one terminal in the morning.
 
Yes Jeff all the sohc engine family have an oil pressure gauge sender (where specified for the model of car) in the bottom corner and a low oil pressure switch in the middle of the block up near the head gasket just like the X1/9.
 
all the sohc engine family have an oil pressure gauge sender (where specified for the model of car) in the bottom corner and a low oil pressure switch in the middle of the block
Unfortunately my X1/9 block only has the low oil pressure sender / light...no gauge or related sender. In another thread I asked suggestions for optional methods to add the second sender for an aftermarket gauge (VDO). It was suggested all blocks have a threaded port where Janis found the gauge sender on his UT block, but the port is plugged on models without a gauge. However my block is not ported/threaded...just a solid cast-iron bump where it would be. So I wasn't sure about the UT block...thanks for the confirmation Rachael.

Janis, by "variable signal" I mean the resistance value sweeps from no/little resistance to high/full resistance (or vice versa). So the sender is offering the gauge a variable level of negative (ground) connection, making the needle move accordingly to read oil pressure. Its like turning the faucet, the more you turn, the more water comes out. Here more 'ground' signal comes out to make the gauge needle move.
installed that with one terminal in the morning
You should be good.
 
Does UT has radiator for oil cooling before or after pump?

In picture that is from some Mazda, I am worrying about conections - clamps, not threads. When remember cleaning my old Jaguar, whom exploded one of clamps...can’t find photo :D

I have read that should use at least 7row, but it’s beginning of winter...
 

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