RED X19

[rachaeljf]

Neither injector pin should be permanently grounded. The 12 V supply pin may give the impression of being grounded because the 12 V supply wiring connects to other items like the fuel pump and idle valve, which have a fairly low resistance to ground. The other pin connects to the injector driver transistor in the Bosch ecu (the black one). If you disconnect the ecu the injector plug pin should go open circuit. If it is grounded there is a wiring fault.

 

[Janis]

Centre of yellow wire wasn’t connected with ignition coils blue wires.
It runs now
Not perfectly, but runs.
Thanks a lot !!

 

[Janis]

 

[rachaeljf]

Congratulations! Sounds like your injectors need cleaning!

 

[Janis]

Today was at LADA dealer, bought clutch slave cylinder from Lada Niva
Bleeding was easy, easy when brother gave me vacuum bleeder.
Can’t shift in reverse yet (temporary lollipop is homemade..) Made a little test drive in dark with lamp on head, turbo sounds awesome, but crankshaft bearings not so much :/ rattles on ~2200 RPM I guess, tach doesn’t work yet . That means 1.6 punto turbo conversion is closer than I thought.

 

[Dr.Jeff]

NICE! I've been at the "SEMA Show" this week so haven't had time to respond, but that's o.k. because I could not help with the wiring issues anyway. Glad to see you got it running.

test drive in dark with lamp on head

That's why they are called "head-lights"

How similar are Punto 1.6 and Uno Turbo engines? I think they are the same? Hope you be able to just change engines and put all turbo equipment on the Punto.

 

[Janis]

Yes, but car has headlights either...

In this thread, few pages ago, there was small discussion about turboing. 1.6 . Machine shop will be required a little to put bigger exhaust valves from UT head. Haven’t looked closer, to compare blocks for turbo’s oil feed, bottom support points.

 

[rachaeljf]

The UT 1.3, 1.4 and the 1.6 blocks all have the same mounting points so are interchangeable in the car. The 1.6 block doesn't have the oil feed point on the back of the block for the turbo oil feed, because the bigger cylinders (86.4 bore) don't allow the space between them for the oil gallery across the block. For a 1.6 you have to tee off an oil supply pipe from the oil pressure switch.

 

[Janis]

Thanks!
I meant mounting for turbo bracket in bottom- on UT there are place for teo screws. Is it possible that CO regulation shop could regulate AFM and throttle that 1.6 could work with UT mk1 stock Electronics?

Got reverse and 5th gear. But again started to bleed connection- copper pipe/flexi pipe. Will try to find correct thread cutter and clean thread to that element which pushes coper pipe into flexi pipe. (If I would know how it’s called in any language, sentence would be shorter )

PS. This X19 is starting to have near same amount BMW parts as Joe’s with Volvo.

 

[Dr.Jeff]

For a 1.6 you have to tee off an oil supply pipe from the oil pressure switch.

I don't have a lot of turbo experience and I'm hoping to do a turbo conversion on my X1/9 engine eventually, so I need to learn as we go. I've heard the oil supply to the turbo is critical; overly simplified: too little it starves, too much is smokes. Does branching the oil feed directly off the stock pressure switch offer the correct supply (i.e. is that enough oil)? And does it need some type of regulation to control the pressure/volume to the turbo?

Janis, typically adjusting the CO adjustment only affects the idle mixture setting so it will not change the fuel "mapping" for the entire operation. Some AFM's can be changed by altering the spring tension on the "flapper" door, so this might help a little but can be a little tricky to do corrctly. I've seen a lot of electronic devices available to help the stock ECU for wider/better control in turbo applications. But I don't know if it will be necessary for use on the 1.6...seems the engines are very similar, so maybe it is O.K. to use stock Mk1 UT ECU? However I really do not know for UT application, hope others can give a better answer.

The hydraulic fittings on the clutch hose (if the same as X1/9) is very rare size "fine" thread: either M10(1.25) or more likely M12(1.25). It will be difficult to find replacement parts ("tube nut" is the piece I think you are referring to). You might find a correct size thread-cutting "die" to clean up the threads on the old nut. But first check to make sure the tube (pipe) is flared correctly; this is Euro style "ISO" bubble flare and can be a bit difficult to make correctly. Maybe try to make a new flare (cut off tip of pipe and make again) before anything else. Trouble with leaking is often caused by this flare not being exact. You can look for guides online to help with tips for making a good bubble flare.

 

[Dr.Jeff]

I really like your service bay. Wish I had this:

Maybe more features I missed?
The X1/9 is looking like a car again!

 

[Janis]

I hope that this time am flaring wrongly (first time my flaring bleeds), not Russian flexi pipe has some defects in inside cone. I shortened that pipe, and in the other end put element from X19 pipe, as there is no space for straight pipe in enginebay. Even my homemade pressed clamp works and hopefully won't lose. Non hydro pipe shop had necessary ends to nozzles to make new pipe.

In picture marked everything correct. It's good to have something like that than nothing.

 

[rachaeljf]

Is that an Audi 100 C4 in the photo?

 

[Janis]

Is that an Audi 100 C4 in the photo?

It’s 80 b4 1.9 diesel, have worn out turbo..

 

[Janis]

How Fiat didn’t bankrupt, manufacturing cars which are so complicated to assemble and adjust.
Got rear screen in way it could be done in factory, easy, but anyway there is millions possibilities to damage paint. Anyway that handbrake adjustment hole, steering alignment..pedal box etc.

Leather around windshield. If you are planing to do that as me - ecologically friendly (tight budget ) take just 60x60 cm leather, cut it in spiral, put in warm water for 15 minutes, and then patiently and gently put it on, on next day when it is dry can glue it. If are using PVC You can cut it in spiral too I believe.

Closeups of paintjob here won’t be. Planned to put spoiler from Audi Coupe b2, but couldn’t find it in stock, anyway it’s from rubber and heavy, found vw passat b2 hatchback, shortened it by 12cm. Light and quite good looking on X.
Brakes and clutch will leave for dessert.

 

[Janis]

Clutch is done, works without leaks. Made too little flare before.

Breaks have no leaks now.
Front ones bleeded just by unscrewing bleeding valve.
For rear ones doesn’t help even vaccum bleeder.
Tried a lot by pressing a brake pedal and than unscrewing valve. Happens absolutely nothing. Pedal doesn’t get any firmer and don’t go back by itself.

Can brakes master cylinder be faulty in this case, without making any leaks? Tried to figure out how it could be, have looked at cross section but can’t imagine.

Unscrewed those 2 screws in bottom of cylinder to be sure that there is fluid, there is. There is fluid in rear brake cylinder, that got there by gravity..

 

[Janis]

Just watched one video how works that cylinder, it looks then mine need to have new seals.

 

[Dr.Jeff]

Yes, if the seals inside the master cylinder are bad then they allow the fluid to slip past them (backward) instead of going to the calipers (forward). Many people have difficulty bleeding the X1/9 brakes completely (required a lot of bleeding), but it sounds like you do not have any fluid moving to the calipers. To check, try removing the hose from the caliper and pump the pedal...fluid should come out of the hose. If not then most likely you need to rebuild the master cylinder.

 

[Janis]

Took absolutely out screws in bottom of cylinder. Pedal was depressed. Reservoir in cylinder for front brakes was full of fluid and it flow out fast, but reservoir for rear ones slowly dripped. Will check carefully with compressed air tomorrow, wasn’t there any blockade.

 

[Janis]

Headliights in progress, trying to use existing mounts and avoid cutting chassis, as assuming that someone would like to have same modification.

Appears that ignition switch fits very well from Fiat Ducato type 230 to UT wiring on X19, broke key ,

cold weather is disturbing to be more careful.