Janis
True Classic
P.S. Design of UT fusebox is more than wonderful, inside there is two sheets of wiring, folded, and guess what happens if too strong fuses have been used. This definitely was one of reasons why they got scrapped.
RED X19
- Thread starter Janis
- Start date
P.S. Design of UT fusebox is more than wonderful, inside there is two sheets of wiring, folded, and guess what happens if too strong fuses have been used. This definitely was one of reasons why they got scrapped.
Janis
True Classic
Yes, UT fusebox.I like the headlights.
The 1st pic is the UT fuse-box? Wow, seems it did not take much to fry it. I guess symbolic of all electrical items on Italian cars...one of the many reasons we love them so much.
Hope MOT goes well, let me know.
lookforjoe
True Classic
How is the light pattern? All good? Did you paint the whole car, looks cleaner in this last pic?
motoTrooper
True Classic
Probably not too many of those driving on the streets in your area or any area anymore. And yes it does look striking the way you've styled it -bigger wheels, airscoop, zany exhaust. This car is now an expression of you which I see as, "I don't care what you think, I'm fast, a bit rough around the edges, strong where it matters so get out of my way I'm having fun!"
Also, I don't know if it's a good thing or a bad thing when it's cheaper to paint a car versus changing its documentation.
Also, I don't know if it's a good thing or a bad thing when it's cheaper to paint a car versus changing its documentation.
Janis
True Classic
Here in Latvia are 4 as I know. One that I had years ago (that rusty one) and now has been restores by masters, mine and another guy has 2.
In last 10 years mine could be only one that has been on the road here, without trailer in between.
Mototrooper, You actually see it right, and I maybe quote Your comment some day, if will change color for my car.
That first drive experience with it was like first time struggling with knife in left hand at festive table.
Too wide tires for snow, learning how sensitive is that turbo, bad wheels alignment, nonworking windscreen wipers, and few other small issues.
My long term vacation has ended, it just has to get MOT on Monday and be a reliable daily car.
In last 10 years mine could be only one that has been on the road here, without trailer in between.
Mototrooper, You actually see it right, and I maybe quote Your comment some day, if will change color for my car.
That first drive experience with it was like first time struggling with knife in left hand at festive table.
Too wide tires for snow, learning how sensitive is that turbo, bad wheels alignment, nonworking windscreen wipers, and few other small issues.
My long term vacation has ended, it just has to get MOT on Monday
and be a reliable daily car.
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
I'll have to quote that some day.
Janis
True Classic
Didn’t have on another engine that housing- had to give it for welding, not perfect but doesn’t leak atleast.Interior is pretty shitty. Light patern looks OK, yet, while haven’t made plastic cover. Put narrow wheels, doesn’t rub also. Couldn’t get on ramp to make alignment, it, with my help nearly drifted into that pit.
Janis
True Classic
Was driving home from capital (60km) with hope that knocking crankshaft bearings won't collapse absolutely, they didn't. But again some problems with engine management system. Engine stopped 1km from home , didn't wan't to start again, unpluged AFM, and could ran again more 500m, and then nothing.
I'm pissed off with these old school electronics,
1.6turbo build has been started, at least on web
Quoting SteveC "
1600 (1581) 8 valves are 9.2:1 static CR ...punto/tipo head has 39.5 intakes but should only have 31.5 exhaust valves... unoT has 33.4 exhaust valves and 36mm intakes... so the exhaust valves won't fit from the uno head into the tipo/punto head without changing the seat.
1500 crank into 1600 block will leave the pistons a LONG way from the top of the bore... very poor squish (well zero) or quench and the resulting low static CR would mean very poor running off boost.
enlarge the combustion chambers and enlarge the dished recess in the piston crown if you want to drop CR... a few CC's (about 5) is all it will take to drop to 8.5:1."
Is that job something I could probably do by myself with lathe and grinder? Or better give it to professionals?
P.S. engine nr of that Punto is 176.A9.000
, didn't wan't to start again, unpluged AFM, and could ran again more 500m, and then nothing.I'm pissed off with these old school electronics,
1.6turbo build has been started, at least on web
Quoting SteveC "
1600 (1581) 8 valves are 9.2:1 static CR ...punto/tipo head has 39.5 intakes but should only have 31.5 exhaust valves... unoT has 33.4 exhaust valves and 36mm intakes... so the exhaust valves won't fit from the uno head into the tipo/punto head without changing the seat.
1500 crank into 1600 block will leave the pistons a LONG way from the top of the bore... very poor squish (well zero) or quench and the resulting low static CR would mean very poor running off boost.
enlarge the combustion chambers and enlarge the dished recess in the piston crown if you want to drop CR... a few CC's (about 5) is all it will take to drop to 8.5:1."
Is that job something I could probably do by myself with lathe and grinder? Or better give it to professionals?
P.S. engine nr of that Punto is 176.A9.000
dcioccarelli
Dominic Cioccarelli
Was driving home from capital (60km) with hope that knocking crankshaft bearings won't collapse absolutely, they didn't. But again some problems with engine management system. Engine stopped 1km from home
I'm pissed off with these old school electronics
I was looking at one of the photos of the car and noticed that the cover seems to be missing from the AFM (hard to see though)?
If this is the case then it might explain the issue: the AFM internals certainly don't like being exposed to the environment. Any moisture in there would certainly cause issues.
Cheers,
Dom.
lookforjoe
True Classic
Combustion chamber work or piston work? Either requires a measure of precision, especially the piston work as the weight of each must end up in a very narrow weight differential with the others. CC work requires much measuring of the CC volume as removing is done. removal must be consistent across the cylinders.
That AFM is definitely not going to last without the cover. As said, dirt/moisture etc., will kill it very quickly. No wonder it's crapping out on you
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
To lower the compression ratio, another economical option might be to use a thicker head gasket (specifically one intended for this like multi-layer steel) or a head spacer (I think they have been made for the SOHC Fiat). I have no experience with either of these options and have not read any feedback from those who do, so I'd be interested to learn how well either method works on the Fiat power plant. I know both techniques are commonly done successfully on VW engines for turbo applications. For a economical turbo build these options are certainly less expensive than machining the head or pistons.
Janis
True Classic
Thanks, afm was dried and cleaned after that run in photo, and put cover back, sealed
Yesterday talked with electrician about this 1.6, he said cheapest way would be to find 2.8mm headgasket. Best way - to take of ~1mm off from top of the cylinders on lathe. And that I better do not make any mods to 1.6 head or put bigger valves, because NA heads breaths better than turbo heads. He has dyno in his workshop and can approve that, he compared with his Volvo 940? , witch was stock with turbo and now has NA head with NA cam.
I can’t find so thick gasket yet. 2.0 is thickest what “fiat racing parts” from Macedonia offers.
(Lathe work on cylinders I won’t do by myself, can imagine how could damage them )
Yesterday talked with electrician about this 1.6, he said cheapest way would be to find 2.8mm headgasket. Best way - to take of ~1mm off from top of the cylinders on lathe. And that I better do not make any mods to 1.6 head or put bigger valves, because NA heads breaths better than turbo heads. He has dyno in his workshop and can approve that, he compared with his Volvo 940? , witch was stock with turbo and now has NA head with NA cam.
I can’t find so thick gasket yet. 2.0 is thickest what “fiat racing parts” from Macedonia offers.
(Lathe work on cylinders I won’t do by myself, can imagine how could damage them
)
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
What is the calculated thickness needed to drop the CR to the desired level?
"Cometic Gaskets" in the USA makes MLS (multi-layer steel) head gaskets for the Fiat SOHC up to 3.5mm thick. However they don't keep their data base up to date or complete, so you must contact them directly to get the correct part number, availability, and price. It is for the later type 1.5 engine (head stud size/count), so you'll need to verify that is compatible with the 1.6 you will be building. (Seems others have used it successfully on the earlier 1.3 engine but that needs to be confirmed as well).
http://www.cometic.com/
There is also a European company that makes thick MLS head gaskets for the SOHC engine as well, but I don't recall the name...I think they are in the UK? That might be a better source for your location. Seems they listed it on eBay UK? It was discussed on Xweb when I was previously active here a few years ago, so I'm not 100% certain if they are still available.
"Cometic Gaskets" in the USA makes MLS (multi-layer steel) head gaskets for the Fiat SOHC up to 3.5mm thick. However they don't keep their data base up to date or complete, so you must contact them directly to get the correct part number, availability, and price. It is for the later type 1.5 engine (head stud size/count), so you'll need to verify that is compatible with the 1.6 you will be building. (Seems others have used it successfully on the earlier 1.3 engine but that needs to be confirmed as well).
http://www.cometic.com/
There is also a European company that makes thick MLS head gaskets for the SOHC engine as well, but I don't recall the name...I think they are in the UK? That might be a better source for your location. Seems they listed it on eBay UK? It was discussed on Xweb when I was previously active here a few years ago, so I'm not 100% certain if they are still available.
lookforjoe
True Classic
Thanks, afm was dried and cleaned after that run in photo, and put cover back, sealed
Yesterday talked with electrician about this 1.6, he said cheapest way would be to find 2.8mm headgasket. Best way - to take of ~1mm off from top of the cylinders on lathe. And that I better do not make any mods to 1.6 head or put bigger valves, because NA heads breaths better than turbo heads. He has dyno in his workshop and can approve that, he compared with his Volvo 940? , witch was stock with turbo and now has NA head with NA cam.
I can’t find so thick gasket yet. 2.0 is thickest what “fiat racing parts” from Macedonia offers.
(Lathe work on cylinders I won’t do by myself, can imagine how could damage them
Interesting - with old 8V (2-2.3l, aluminum) Volvo heads, the casting was the same (530 vs. 531, 2cc or less chamber difference) to the best of my knowledge. Cam profile & (sodium filled) exhaust valves were the only difference between NA & T. Even on non-VVT whiteblocks, switching to NA cams for more lift was a 'thing'
My understanding was that using thicker gaskets is really the last resort and least desirable approach, especially if you want it to hold up long term..
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