RED X19

It look that I may win on competition with @motoTrooper , who’s car will be first on the road.
But I assume that You do not know that there was a competition 😂 now You know
 
Nice sound, not as loud as mine so the big exhaust was a good idea. Be careful and don't revv high until mapped. Don't trust the ECU self tuning function too much. It's there for enabling you to drive to dyno/mapping.
 
Bjorn Nilson said:
Nice sound, not as loud as mine so the big exhaust was a good idea. Be careful and don't revv high until mapped. Don't trust the ECU self tuning function too much. It's there for enabling you to drive to dyno/mapping.
Click to expand...
I haven’t seen the car since spring I guess.
Electrician said that he was unpatient and made startup map before got the new manifold, checked spark moment and some noises on compression cycle, I have no idea what I am talking about and what he told me that he has done 😂 I just know that it runs.

He said that base map he made before first start was nearly perfect, I assume that he made some tune for safe driving till fine tuning.

I absolutely am not worried about what he is doing, that’s why I didn’t want to give this job to someone else and waited ~2,5 years 😂

Thanks, that exhaust choice was also his, and that is indoors, outside it could feel even less loud. Tomorrow evening will see X in person.

It feels like going to second date. Because first date was succesful 😅 about meeting X not electrician
 
So far got a bit of pops, few bangs and one flame

unfortunately bang and flame wasn’t cought video

* that cooling system looks that might work better then expected, all the air is being pulled from engine bay out to the rear. And that means when coolant temps will get higher, more air will be pulled from side scoops through the intercooler. that flow of air is imoressive
*small electric waterpump engages when coolant temp reaches 30*C, and after engine is shot down will pupm coolant till I don’t remember what :D or till ignition is swithced off

 
mkmini said:
small electric waterpump engages when coolant temp reaches 30*C, and after engine is shot down will pupm coolant till I don’t remember what :D or till ignition is swithced off
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Is this in addition to the regular (stock) mechanical water pump? I'm interested to see how it is connected to the system and controlled. Did the electrician add this, or was it already there?
 
Found 1300 type bumpers from Belgium for reasonable price.
Bought them.
In french Latvia is Lettonie
And Lithuania is Litaunie.
Don’t know whos mistake it is, senders or post office’s but parcel has been sent to Lithuania ~500km from me. 😂

Jeff, yes it is additional very small pump from mercedes that pull cold water from interior heater. Electrician added it, when will have again an option- will make a photo.
 
Dr.Jeff said:
Our own @dragonsgate has a blanked out nose on his electric X. See if he can post a pic for you.
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I sort of chopped mine up or off to be exact.
I will try to find a picture of the first nose job.
It shows more of how I did it.
Sometimes I think I should have left it the I did it the first time then think it doesn't look bad bobbed.
I refrain showing pictures to much as there are some here that are faint of heart.
The grey looks good.
 
mkmini said:
Jeff, yes it is additional very small pump from mercedes that pull cold water from interior heater. Electrician added it, when will have again an option- will make a photo.
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Thanks Janis, I'm interested in how he did it - might be something like I've considered in order to cool the turbocharger after the engine is shut off (possibly why he added it also).
 
There is a problem with one rear brake caliper not releasing in the rear. Sliding wedges ar ok.

what exactly should I look for?
*edit
I’ll start with what has been mentioned in this thread

Rear Brake locking up

I have always left the inside of the piston as is. Not very helpfull, but this is what extreme brake failure looks like. I hate when that happens.
xwebforums.com
 
Last edited:
mkmini said:
There is a problem with one rear brake caliper not releasing in the rear. Sliding wedges ar ok.

what exactly should I look for?
*edit
I’ll start with what has been mentioned in this thread

Rear Brake locking up

I have always left the inside of the piston as is. Not very helpfull, but this is what extreme brake failure looks like. I hate when that happens.
xwebforums.com
Click to expand...
My rear calipers locked up due to the parking brake plunger being frozen in it's bore. I tried just about everything (oil, heat, force) but it would not move. I ended up getting new calipers.
 
Disassembled rear calipers (except handbrake system in caliper)
•hanbrake lever and shaft moves forth and back by itself
•seal is in the bore not on the piston
•there wasn’t any leaks from hanbrake shaft

From that I understand that am lucky and can just buy new pistons and seals?
 
Also measured movement of the hanbrakes shaft in the caliper, it is approximately 1.5mm.
Should it be like that?
 
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