RED X19

Now I see what you will do with the side scoop on the engine cover - going to the duct for the air filter. Nice!

Interesting wheels on the old red X in the last pics.
 
Car is looking good! Interested to see how the rear cover ends up - definitely needs refinement :) underside will have reinforcements riveted in place? What about latches? Aeroquip style or hood pins?

Curious why you didn't resolve the inlet pipe to get a better angle?

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Car is looking good! Interested to see how the rear cover ends up - definitely needs refinement :) underside will have reinforcements riveted in place? What about latches? Aeroquip style or hood pins?

Curious why you didn't resolve the inlet pipe to get a better angle?

View attachment 39177
Will see soon how cover ends up, I don’t know yet also. Rivets are not street legal here, only on vehicles where they were from factory :D I could glue reinforcement, that is legal.

About angle, not sure, done by electrician, on smaal things like that will focus after MOT, maybe he didn’t want to cut silicone bend 🤷‍♂️

That bonnet could be the reason why I coukd fail MOT.

Hinges and closing mechanism is from originall bonnet.
 
Was going to make a test drive at work arounf factory tonight but fuel ended up before depressed clutch :D

Rebleeded again brakes, pedal is firms as never, there definitely was air traped in somewhere when went to mot last time.
Hanbrake also works, that I wasn’t giving big hopes on 🥳

Tomorrow am planning to go to MOT station.
 
Annual MOT passed.
Have just two small coments on the list:
-odometer shiws less than previously :D
-fbracket for brake is not correct but it is good enough (which and were disn’t ask, was too surprised that I passed)

They were 3 inspectors at one moment around my car, was a bit scared 😂 normally there is only one.

Fine tuning haven’t been done yet.
But it feels already too much 😂 -2C temperature outside and narrow studed r13 winter tyres.

Ass goes sideways sometimes on acceleration.

Have to do alignment for all wheels asap, it feels very uncontrollable.
 
Mot procedure is in this virus situation different.
1.We have a big mot station in each biggest city.
2.Now You drive in show all lights
3.Then he pops his finger to bonnet.
I thought he wanted to see engine, but no, to compare VIN
4.I opened a engine bonnet afterwards, and asked or is it not necessary, he said no 😂 and closed it
5.You gou outside of building and wait till they finish inspection.

I think they wanted to open engine lid afterwards, but couldn’t figure out where is handle 😅
They were sneekimg into engine bay throgh the side openings of my bonnet.
It was hard to see thing in details as glass of the gates were very foggy.

So this time it was better that they couldn’t ask me ant questions because I had to wait outside.
 
@Bjorn Nilson how easy Yours loose traction?

I have to make some mods to throttle system, because that spring at pedal makes things very spongy in begining and then boooom TPS shows 70%
 
@Bjorn Nilson how easy Yours loose traction?

I have to make some mods to throttle system, because that spring at pedal makes things very spongy in begining and then boooom TPS shows 70%
I have R tires so rather slippery when wet, but fantastic grip when dry. I haven't tried 0-60 drags yet (I am afraid the gearbox won't survive it) but I am sure it would spin. Throttle/TPS works as it should. I assume you're not using the UT TPS because that will not work well. By its design it will create the behaviour you are describing. I use a Bosch Motorsport TPS that works perfectly smooth. It is not a direct fit on the throttle body so I made an adaptor plate in aluminium. I can send you a pic if needed.
 
I have Punto GT TPS.
problem is in the mechanism
1. that spring behind the pedal
2. axis of rotation of throttle linkage on top of cambox.
I could try to use UT snail to avoid this problem
 
It is hard for me to tell what to look for but i doubt it is a mechanical issue if the cable is moving smoothly. Disconnect the cable from throttle body to see if it moves freely. I am using stock pedal but I don't think I have a spring on it. -My springs are on the TB and on the cam cover. My cable and linkage are also stock. -Same setup as I had with the NA engine except TPS. I think Punto GT TPS and UT TPS are the same so I still suspect that the TPS is causing the problem. Can you monitor throttle position in VEMS tuning app? If so, verify values from TPS and that they corresponds to pedal position and that resolution is high (0,1%) over the whole range 0-100%.
 
Like Bjorn said, start by making sure the throttle action is smooth. Disconnect the cable/linkage from the throttle plate (on intake manifold) and check the movement of the cable, linkage, and the butterfly valve (throttle plate)...to make sure nothing is 'binding'. I agree with you Janis, the stock X1/9 throttle design isn't the best. You might end up modifying it a little if everything else checks out first. Depending on the year of X1/9, and carb or FI, some have several springs on the system; possibly at the foot pedal (inside the tunnel), at the engine end of the cable (where it first meets the levers below the valve cover), and on the valve cover shaft (see pic below). If there are too many springs then they cause too much tension on the linkage and things wear out or become difficult to move. Also, I'm not certain what is on your current engine, but on the stock X valve cover the bushings for the crossover rod (see pic) wear through the rod and it can bind.

Also as Bjorn said, check to make sure the correct type of TPS is used. I think the electrician would have noticed it, but just to be sure. Basically there are two designs of TPS. One only shows when the throttle is either fully closed or fully open, but nothing in between. The other one (needed for the VEMS) will show the throttle movement all the way from closed to full open. You can imagine if the wrong one is being used then VEMS will only recognize idle (closed) and wide open throttle (fully open).

X1/9 valve cover throttle shaft. Red arrows are bushings that wear groves in the shaft, Blue arrows are the springs:
throttle shaft.jpg
 
Thanks for advices.
TPS is correct - I see all the movement from 1 to 100% on the display. That bushing on cambox cover is refurbished- there everything is ok, problem is in linkage I made between that shaft on cambox and throttle valve because of space available, or I just need to move cable that is attached to pedal closer to axis of rotation of pedal and remove a spring in the tunnel that absorbs pressure when pedal is pressed too hard.
 
-Passangers door when are locked and button is pressed from outside unlocks 🤦‍♂️
-on drivers door linkage that is attached to handle jumps off when doors have been closed 🤦‍♂️ because on handle that stick where linkage is attached ia broken and is repaired with small screw
-cable of drivers door window snapped 🤦‍♂️

Have to improve intercooler cooling, because air T in intake manifold in city driving grows up to ~+36C, outsiede is ~+2C

*So far absolutely no problems with overheating because of the radiator in the rear.
 
Thanks for advices.
TPS is correct - I see all the movement from 1 to 100% on the display. That bushing on cambox cover is refurbished- there everything is ok, problem is in linkage I made between that shaft on cambox and throttle valve because of space available, or I just need to move cable that is attached to pedal closer to axis of rotation of pedal and remove a spring in the tunnel that absorbs pressure when pedal is pressed too hard.
That spring near the throttle pedal inside the tunnel is really dumb. I believe it is supposed to help "smooth" the throttle motion by cushioning the action. But it works against the desired direction of the cable. Remove it and make a direct connection in its place.

About the door latches. I know there are plastic clips on the ends of those skinny metal rods that always break off. Also there is a small metal ball on the end of the lock (called "pawl") that breaks off. Plus the tip breaks off the skinny spring. There are threads on the forum that discuss ways to repair the clips or pawl (modified attachment), or you can get new ones from LADA. The passenger door lock may need some of this also:
 
This point closer to axis of rotation.
And also would like to move pedal a bit to left or add a bigger platform on brake pedal, to make rev matching easier
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