Remote Oil Filter

D

Dewolf

Daily Driver
Hi All,

Being one who likes to use dino oil on old engines, I change it and the filter every 7,000kms. Given the filter is a turd to change on these cars, I want to fit a remote filter adapter. Anybody done this? Would also be a good pickup point for the oil feed for a snail.

Cheers
Scott
 
And a good opportunity to add a oil cooler.

I'm adding one to mine for all the above reasons; to feed the turbo, to add a oil cooler, to relocate the filter to a more accessible location, and to install another temp sensor for the aftermarket oil temp gauge. You can even use a longer filter if you want a larger capacity (it would hit the firewall if you do that in the stock location).

There are several types of adaptors for doing this. I chose one with the ports facing to the sides in order to keep the hoses away from the firewall (i.e. lay flat parallel to it).

The Fiat SOHC's filter fitting is the same size and thread as many American cars so the adaptor plates are easy and cheap to get.
 
Excellent. Thank you. I know everybody warns against turbo'ing the 1300......but I'm going to do it. Just going to leave it basically stock. Just head porting for better flow. I'm going to get a custom thicker head gasket and will do the 'blow through' route for the snail. Have a very good Garret GT17 off a Saab motor. I'll only push 5-6psi and see how we go.

Do you have a link to an adapter that will fit?
 
Dewolf said:
Excellent. Thank you. I know everybody warns against turbo'ing the 1300......but I'm going to do it. Just going to leave it basically stock. Just head porting for better flow. I'm going to get a custom thicker head gasket and will do the 'blow through' route for the snail. Have a very good Garret GT17 off a Saab motor. I'll only push 5-6psi and see how we go.

Do you have a link to an adapter that will fit?
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Is there much to be gained by head porting if you are turbo charging the engine?
 
As I mentioned there are lots of options for the oil filter adaptor plate. Search for one with a 3/4" 16 TPI application. That is the same as a lot of Chevy V8's, etc (don't recall exactly which American engines off hand). Mine is made by Derale, but they are available from dozens of makers.

Note there are "sandwich" type adaptors that allow the filter to mount on the back of the adaptor, so it only acts as a means of attaching external hoses for a cooler. These won't work because there isn't enough space between the block and firewall for the adaptor and filter stacked like that. Plus that isn't your goal, you want to relocate the filter. So the type you want is sort of like a block off plate, in that the filter does not attach directly to the adaptor. Therefore these only have the ports to attach the external hoses. What you do from there is up to your design.

Another option you will find is with or without a thermostatic valve. That is for the remote circuit to a oil cooler only, not to the filter. So in a setup like you want - remotely located filter - you don't want a thermostat in the adaptor. If you add a cooler then you could add a in-line thermostat to the cooler's lines if you wanted. That way the filter still gets full time flow.

You will also see the adaptors available separately or in a kit with the remote filter mount, hoses, etc.

Your turbo idea is basically what I am doing; adding a small low boost turbo on the stock engine. In my case it is a later 1500 FI engine, so I'm converting the ECU to a programmable one. I'm also doing some various mild mods and alterations to things in order to help it survive. For your carb engine with a blow through system I'd recommend you make a box around the whole carb so the pressure is equal inside and outside. Otherwise you will have problems trying to boost a non-turbo specific design carb. The American V8 setups you see with a "hat" on top of the carb use a carb made to be blown. This example of a "boxed in" carb is a little crude but gives the idea:
unnamed.jpg
 
ng_randolph said:
Is there much to be gained by head porting if you are turbo charging the engine?
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For an inefficient head like our counterflow SOHC there is benefit to be had with porting a boosted application. Basically any restriction in airflow will increase the charge temps significantly. So reducing the resistance helps keep the temp down, which helps reduce the chances of detonation (a real problem with boost).
 
On the UT engine there is a sandwich plate with thermostat and oil feed/return to cooler. With the sandwich there is no space for the oil filter, it hits the firewall on a X1/9. However, the shorter filter from a Lancia Y10 fits fine so no need to relocate the filter. As far as I know X1/9 and UT engines have the same oil filter so a Lancia Y10 filter would fit in both scenarios if more space is needed.
 
Bjorn Nilson said:
On the UT engine there is a sandwich plate with thermostat and oil feed/return to cooler. With the sandwich there is no space for the oil filter, it hits the firewall on a X1/9. However, the shorter filter from a Lancia Y10 fits fine so no need to relocate the filter. As far as I know X1/9 and UT engines have the same oil filter so a Lancia Y10 filter would fit in both scenarios if more space is needed.
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Not using a UT motor. Just the standard 1300.
 
Ok, cheers. I just like the ease of the filter out of that area. You almost triple jointed arms to get in there.
 
I have to agree with @Dewolf about the UT style filter adaptor. While you can use a shorter filter and make it work in the X chassis, that has a couple of drawbacks in my opinion. First, changing the X's oil filter is not the most enjoyable task to begin with - due to the location. Then extend its location back further (with the addition of the adaptor plate) closer to the chassis and it is even tighter to work with. I'd much rather relocate it altogether to a more convenient location. Second, the stock filter isn't very large capacity...it is adequate but not ideal. Now go to an even smaller one and I'm not thrilled. Really nothing wrong with it, I just prefer to use one larger than the stock size instead. That also makes the selection of filters that will fit MUCH larger.
 
Dr.Jeff said:
I have to agree with @Dewolf about the UT style filter adaptor. While you can use a shorter filter and make it work in the X chassis, that has a couple of drawbacks in my opinion. First, changing the X's oil filter is not the most enjoyable task to begin with - due to the location. Then extend its location back further (with the addition of the adaptor plate) closer to the chassis and it is even tighter to work with. I'd much rather relocate it altogether to a more convenient location. Second, the stock filter isn't very large capacity...it is adequate but not ideal. Now go to an even smaller one and I'm not thrilled. Really nothing wrong with it, I just prefer to use one larger than the stock size instead. That also makes the selection of filters that will fit MUCH larger.
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The original PH7 oil filters were huge. When I got the X, I was surprised to see that the oil filter was twice the size of the one on my 7 liter Cadillac engine. Not sure if they are still available.
 
dllubin said:
The original PH7 oil filters were huge. When I got the X, I was surprised to see that the oil filter was twice the size of the one on my 7 liter Cadillac engine. Not sure if they are still available.
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All of the ones I've seen listed for my later X's are kind of smallish. However you are right there seems to be several American cars that use very small filters. Not sure why they have become so small compared to what they used to be.

This is similar to what VW did when they added a water/oil cooler onto their engines. It is a sandwich type affair that goes in between the filter and the block - like we are discussing for adaptors. Due to the added thickness they also install a shorter oil filter to make up for the clearance. As a result what was a really nice size filter became a rather small one.

The filter that will fit between the UT adapter plate and the X chassis is quite short (small) in my opinion.

I see some advantages to using a larger filter. It will hold a little extra total oil capacity for the system. It will hold more debris, and judging by the appearance of several SOHC's I've torn down they needed it. It will be less likely to restrict oil flow. Although I'm not saying any of this is necessary, just nice to have.
 
The X filter is easy to get at compared to many cars I own or have owned, you just do it from underneath after removing the under tray. VWs in general are a pain due to the angle and or removing the under tray. The K24 is a pain because it is above the cross member and the passenger side drive shaft, its easier to lie on top of the engine and reach down. The Miata is a pain regardless of what you do.

Most oil filters now of days are tiny. The smallest one I have had was the one on the 6 cylinder of my Toyota Sienna. My other ‘modern‘ cars’ filters are not much bigger.

Basically these are all afterthoughts from the perspective of service.
 
a lot of work and expense just for ease of filter change... if you also installed a oil cooler at the same time I could understand...

You should base your choice on the fitting size and the oil path thru the component. If you remotely mount the fllter you need to plumb it into the system. The hoses and fittings can be big areas for flow and pressure loss, the type of fitting and the size of hose / hard line makes a lot of difference.

For the lemon I chose an Earls 1177 cast spin on adaptor, and a Derale 25708 remote filter mount, both top entry, both 1/2" NPT thread form. All the hose and fittings are -12. See my build thread for more details on the mounting / positioning

For my next build I chose an Earls 1178 spin on adaptor, their CNC billet offering in black also in 1/2" NPT thread form. For the oil filter mount I chose a Derale 35708, this is -10 ORB thread form, the mount is reversible. This wll be -12 hard line plumbed

Stay away from the cheap chinese oil filter relocation kits, the oil path is crap, and the fittings are lousy.

SteveC
 
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Dewolf said:
Will be for oil cooler and turbo oil feed.
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Well give a lot of thought to routing and where you want to position your components. Unfortunately in the back of an X19 there is a shortage on both space and airflow, so you are limited in your options.

For an oil cooler there are I guess four possible positions. Inside the vent on either side, neither of which gives you a lot of room (tried both) unless you're prepared to cut away bodywork like I did for my lemon.

You could mount it high above the engine somewhere and have a fan drawing air out, but I don't particularly like that method myself.

I prefer doing a little bit of sheetmetal work and put the cooler in the space between the engine and the exhaust. Its a simple cut (there is already a hole there for the exhaust front pipe which I don't ever use) to completely remove that panel.

In that space you can mount a decent sized cooler and remote filter, I've never done it in a turbo X19 though, so maybe with a turbo right there it's not such a great spot either? best fitting oil cooler in that spot is a 'dual pass" type with both AN threaded fittings on one end, a bit like this.
mmoc-dp-mbk__4.jpg
only downside is they are usually more expensive, but they cool very well

Either way you go, plumbing and routing are always important.

The uno T uses a banjo fitting on the oil thermostat and hard line (with a crimped on flex section) in -10 size eqivalent, with all metric fittings.

AN (short for Army Navy) non metric fittings are easier to find (and cheaper) in good quality fittings, that's why I use them.

Plan it all out in your head, draw it on paper, do lots of measuring, and write out a list of all the fittings and parts you're going to need... It's a very tight fit to get hose / hose end plumbing to the spin on adaptor in an X19, and the neatest solution (for a road car) is to use hard line and not hose, but that requires the ability to bend the alloy tubing of that size.

My transmission oil cooler system for my next road registered X19 build... all off the shelf parts and fittings ( @Ulix )
20210301_144048.jpg
My fuel system for the same car...same thing, I like the black anodised look.
20210301_143126.jpg

it just takes a little planning to get all the right parts that work together

SteveC
 
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This oil cooler location turned out to work very well for me

Turbo systems for X1/9's

I am almost sure my turbo works the same way as your T5R. It opens a bypass valve to the non pressured side of the compressor. I found a good video that explains the pros and cons with having a BOV vs a BPV. I will start with the built in BPV and find out if it works as expected even if it...
xwebforums.com
I added a small fan as well
1614619403499.png
 
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