Replacing both Brake and Clutch Master Cylinders
- Thread starter Tavalin
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Tavalin
Florida Mike (again)
Okay, do the calipers go in front of the spring on the pad holders or behind the spring? Reason I ask is that when I turn the rotor I hear a grinding noise of the pad rubbing the rotor.
Oh, I slipped the caliper behind the spring, away from the the brake pads.
V/r, Mike
Nebraska Mike
Oh, I slipped the caliper behind the spring, away from the the brake pads.
V/r, Mike
Nebraska Mike
Not that difficult until
I just started the dreaded re-do of both masters yesterday.
I ended up using a bungie cord to pull the steering wheel column to the other side of the car and didn't even take it out.
Pulling the cylinders was easy, and all of the nuts on the brake system came off with no problem. The clutch nut is badly deformed, but got an 11mm on its flat sides and had no problem.
I'm thinking I'm half done after about 20 minutes. Yeah, it seems as though the actual replacement of the cylinders is about 20% finished of the job. Because now I see the issue of having to weirdly contort, of the ^%#& other nuts not wanting to screw on--having to hold up the box with one hand, get another hand to put on the screws in such a small space. And the darn bleeder nuts don't simply or easily go back in. Barely able to spin them for 8 revolutions to find I'm making no progress. And they seem to want to default to cross-threading. But even with all this, I thought it would be worse.
I just started the dreaded re-do of both masters yesterday.
I ended up using a bungie cord to pull the steering wheel column to the other side of the car and didn't even take it out.
Pulling the cylinders was easy, and all of the nuts on the brake system came off with no problem. The clutch nut is badly deformed, but got an 11mm on its flat sides and had no problem.
I'm thinking I'm half done after about 20 minutes. Yeah, it seems as though the actual replacement of the cylinders is about 20% finished of the job. Because now I see the issue of having to weirdly contort, of the ^%#& other nuts not wanting to screw on--having to hold up the box with one hand, get another hand to put on the screws in such a small space. And the darn bleeder nuts don't simply or easily go back in. Barely able to spin them for 8 revolutions to find I'm making no progress. And they seem to want to default to cross-threading. But even with all this, I thought it would be worse.
Tavalin
Florida Mike (again)
Henway,
It wasn't easy but what I did for the gold aluminum block was to apply anti-seize to the threads and then hand screw the bottom two first then hand screw the top two then place the long bolt back in (by angling the pedal assembly). Then tighten down the top two then tighten down the long bolt then shove the pedal assembly back into place. Then tighten down the bottom two fittings.
It took a long time to do that but so far ;knock on wood, I have no leaks.
Hope this helps.
My arms still hurt from holding that darn pedal assembly up while I stared the nuts.
Don't forget, the two forward two nuts (closest the steering wheel) are also the nuts that hold the gold colored mount for the steering column cover. After you are done tightening the rear two (closest to the firewall) you will need to take the two forward nuts back off. I forgot and it cost me about another hour.
V/r, Mike
Nebraska Mike
It wasn't easy but what I did for the gold aluminum block was to apply anti-seize to the threads and then hand screw the bottom two first then hand screw the top two then place the long bolt back in (by angling the pedal assembly). Then tighten down the top two then tighten down the long bolt then shove the pedal assembly back into place. Then tighten down the bottom two fittings.
It took a long time to do that but so far ;knock on wood, I have no leaks.
Hope this helps.
My arms still hurt from holding that darn pedal assembly up while I stared the nuts.
Don't forget, the two forward two nuts (closest the steering wheel) are also the nuts that hold the gold colored mount for the steering column cover. After you are done tightening the rear two (closest to the firewall) you will need to take the two forward nuts back off. I forgot and it cost me about another hour.
V/r, Mike
Nebraska Mike
lookforjoe
True Classic
When you finish the hanfbrake - remove the cover
Carefully route cables around the pulleys. Lube EVRYTHING
Loosen handbrake lever base and move it all the way back so your under car adjustment will allow for tweaking from inside the cabin later when the cables stretch a little & everything settles in
Carefully route cables around the pulleys. Lube EVRYTHING
Loosen handbrake lever base and move it all the way back so your under car adjustment will allow for tweaking from inside the cabin later when the cables stretch a little & everything settles in
Tavalin
Florida Mike (again)
Hey, what did I do wrong?
https://vimeo.com/162315319
I do not know why they are grinding like this. Both fronts.
V/r, Mike
Nebraska Mike
https://vimeo.com/162315319
I do not know why they are grinding like this. Both fronts.
V/r, Mike
Nebraska Mike
Rod Midkiff
True Classic
kinda sounds like something tin rubbing.. Or are the disk's rusty from sitting..
lookforjoe
True Classic
You'll need to get it out on the roadway & get the pads bedded in. A few fairly hard braking from 60-20ish should settle them. Don't come to a full stop as you want them to cool in between.
Do check that the backing plates didn't get bent when you had them off - it is possible there is a contact point between the backing plate and the rotor, but that should create a steady scrape, not quite what you seem to have.
Do check that the backing plates didn't get bent when you had them off - it is possible there is a contact point between the backing plate and the rotor, but that should create a steady scrape, not quite what you seem to have.
Tavalin
Florida Mike (again)
All,
I had to take the backing plates off the fit the calipers on. I tried everything but the calipers would not fit. Ian said I really didn't need them. I hope he is right.
I can't wait to test the brakes... Oh wait, I need to finish everything first.
Well, going to hit the gas tank again and while under there use the pictures that Lookforjoe sent and try to complete the hand brake cables.
Thanks everyone. Wish me luck. So far luck has been kind to me. It is my patients and frustration that has not been.
Then I will just have the timing and then done for now... Mechanically speaking.
V/r,
Mike
Nebraska Mike
I had to take the backing plates off the fit the calipers on. I tried everything but the calipers would not fit. Ian said I really didn't need them. I hope he is right.
I can't wait to test the brakes... Oh wait, I need to finish everything first.
Well, going to hit the gas tank again and while under there use the pictures that Lookforjoe sent and try to complete the hand brake cables.
Thanks everyone. Wish me luck. So far luck has been kind to me. It is my patients and frustration that has not been.
Then I will just have the timing and then done for now... Mechanically speaking.
V/r,
Mike
Nebraska Mike
ianlawson
ian - NZ
Tavalin
Florida Mike (again)
...must be another Ian! (hiding away somewhere
cheers, Ian - NZ
Oopps,
Sorry Ian it was Yves...
I couldn't go back in the blog at the time to check my facts. But thanks for all the help earlier.
V/r, Mike
Well, if you had said it, you would have been right.... This time......must be another Ian! (hiding away somewhere
Tavalin
Florida Mike (again)
Alright everyone!!! I have a clutch again!!! Yeah!
https://vimeo.com/162913137
My wonderful wife assisted me in bleeding the clutch. It took longer than I ever expected but I did it. I finished off using my pressure bleeder I made for the brake. Then pressure finally increased on the pedal. It is really tight and strong.
Thanks everyone for the tips on what to do.
Now, on to the parking brake cables.
Then all I have left are the gas tank and timing. Almost there.
I am also taking the opportunity to clean up the evap hoses. One wasn't even plugged into the check valve. Probably should get another one just in case a critter made a home in it.
I will be driver her shortly...
V/r, Mike
Nebraska Mike
https://vimeo.com/162913137
My wonderful wife assisted me in bleeding the clutch. It took longer than I ever expected but I did it. I finished off using my pressure bleeder I made for the brake. Then pressure finally increased on the pedal. It is really tight and strong.
Thanks everyone for the tips on what to do.
Now, on to the parking brake cables.
Then all I have left are the gas tank and timing. Almost there.
I am also taking the opportunity to clean up the evap hoses. One wasn't even plugged into the check valve. Probably should get another one just in case a critter made a home in it.
I will be driver her shortly...
V/r, Mike
Nebraska Mike
Good to hear!
Glad you got it fixed.
Glad you got it fixed.