SecretAudio Radio Install

AKimball92

True Classic
Incoming thread documenting my radio install on a '78 old style dash and interior set up. I have basically just purchased the parts, no install yet. speakers to come when I am home and able to work on it. Tis the season for weddings when you and all your friends are ~29 years old.

My dash is uncut but I have added an adaptor to sit on the dash displaying oil pressure and A/F reading. That area is blocked. At first I wanted to hide a mechless unit behind the speaker grill in the dash and using a little magnet clip latch to lower the door for access. The existing speaker holes in the dash insert are slightly narrower than a single DIN radio and I couldn't find an oddball sized unit that fit nicely behind there without cutting the metal behind. I was also afraid I wouldn't be able to find a plastic door insert to color match perfectly. Thus I decided on the SecretAudio system where I might still do that with the "head unit" and simply velcro the remote elsewhere more easily accessible. One good spot would be on the drivers side of my gage insert.

Radio unit:
Secretaudio Hidden Classic Car Radio System with Bluetooth Every site had this unit for $329 so no deals were around at the time. This hasn't came in yet at this point. This system seemed to have good enough ratings and reviews for myself. It's expensive but should be less intrusive to install. I plan to keep the actual guts of the system in the spare wheel compartment. How? Uncertain until I get the parts in hand. It also can power a sub (possible future update), and my electric antenna.

My speakers I chose Kicker KSC line with both 4x6 rear shelf speakers (47KSC4604) and 4" kick panel speakers (47KSC404). These have come in and I have played with the fitment a bit. I have not listened to them yet; fingers cross they sound good.

Rear Shelf:
My rear shelf does have the oval holes cut out in the metal underneath, but the vinyl is uncut and in flawless condition (unfortunately :( as I hate to mess up). The vinyl panel has a board inside and it is glued to the underside of the window seal. It stretches down 3 inches to the shelf then wraps around the board to wedge into the shelf. I made the executive decision that I will cut the vinyl underneath pull out the wood insert cut to size and install the speakers in the OEM holes. T plan to wrap the top layer around to the bottom to make a nice edge to the surface On the driver's side with the fuel tank, the speaker does not sit flush. I am cutting up a half inch plywood spacer (rectangular donut) to raise it up. I'll screw the spacers to the sheet metal and then the speakers to the spacers. The sound insulation will make up for the 1/2" wood spacer to make it not bulge up.

Two items I still need are a vapor barrier to separate the fuel tank from the inside, also to help with sound deadening. Second, I need to figure out what to do for speaker covers. I think something like Bobkat's Method to fastened to the wood insert would be best to ensure it fits properly in the shelf. Speaking of which I think I need to lengthen my spacers to make attach the grills, underneath the vinyl.

Kick Panels:
I went relatively small on the kick panel speakers because I do use that space to rest my foot when not shifting. I needed enough room to not intrude. These angle enough to tuck into the corner. Also my car has the hood latch on the driver's side with the over center level. I believe this is for '79 and newer cars? I tested a 5.5" loose speaker and could not get it to fit how i wanted without cutting sheet metal. I will create a plywood box or just a box front to fasten to the plethora of square holes in the dash metal at that location. I need to order those little screw-inserts-into-square-holes thingamabobs. I am also missing some for engine shields.

Stay tuned for updates and pictures.
 
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Does anyone recognize this power antenna? There are two wires going in plus the antenna wire. Of the two for the motor I am uncertain which would be hot vs ground. Any suggestions? The wire colors appear to be blue/red and blue/white. They then connect to green/yellow wiring shown. The car had a cheapo relay in the spare tire compartment to power it. But no radio...

I removed the round cover at the bottom and the grease still seemed good. The top is held by two screws and one was quite stripped. I didn't touch those but sprayed them.
IMG_3177.jpg
 
Does anyone recognize this power antenna? There are two wires going in plus the antenna wire. Of the two for the motor I am uncertain which would be hot vs ground. Any suggestions? The wire colors appear to be blue/red and blue/white. They then connect to green/yellow wiring shown. The car had a cheapo relay in the spare tire compartment to power it. But no radio...

I removed the round cover at the bottom and the grease still seemed good. The top is held by two screws and one was quite stripped. I didn't touch those but sprayed them.
View attachment 48246
Usually the ground on these is directly from the case to the body via a lower mounting strap or from the serrated top mount that is in contact with the underside of the 1/4 panel. The 2 wires are usually 12v constant and the on-off signal from the radio head.
 
Incoming thread documenting my radio install on a '78 old style dash and interior set up. I have basically just purchased the parts, no install yet. speakers to come when I am home and able to work on it. Tis the season for weddings when you and all your friends are ~29 years old.

My dash is uncut but I have added an adaptor to sit on the dash displaying oil pressure and A/F reading. That area is blocked. At first I wanted to hide a mechless unit behind the speaker grill in the dash and using a little magnet clip latch to lower the door for access. The existing speaker holes in the dash insert are slightly narrower than a single DIN radio and I couldn't find an oddball sized unit that fit nicely behind there without cutting the metal behind. I was also afraid I wouldn't be able to find a plastic door insert to color match perfectly. Thus I decided on the SecretAudio system where I might still do that with the "head unit" and simply velcro the remote elsewhere more easily accessible. One good spot would
I put some 6.5" two way speakers in the kick panels without impacting the space for my size 13 shoes. I cut a hole in the sheet metal so that the magnets were completely behind the sheet metal. I made a baffle from particle board to mount the speaker on. The baffle is attached to the sheet metal behind the carpet.


1974 X19 right kick panel speaker.jpg


In 1974, there were no hidden stereo systems available. In fact, the first car cassette decks were just coming out. They were way too deep to stick in the center of the dash, not that I would consider carving it up in any case. I ended up removing the speaker panel out of the dash to put the radio in that location. Since that area is not very deep, I made two vertical cuts in the firewall and a horizontal cut between the bottoms of the vertical cuts. The sheet metal was then folded up to make a "roof" for the extended area. The sides were done in fiberglass and the exterior of the extension was painted black so that you can look right through the passenger side cowl grill and not even see it.

1974 X19 Stereo Installation.jpg


The wood dashboard look was really in for sports cars back then so I used a piece of mahogany to replace the speaker grill. I'm thinking that if I did it today, I'd probably cover it in black. Actually, I would not do it today as technology has left us with better options. However, you probably won't see many X1/9s with a stereo that does AM/FM, cassette, 12 CDs, and streams Bluetooth.
 
I put some 6.5" two way speakers in the kick panels without impacting the space for my size 13 shoes. I cut a hole in the sheet metal so that the magnets were completely behind the sheet metal. I made a baffle from particle board to mount the speaker on. The baffle is attached to the sheet metal behind the carpet.


View attachment 48254

In 1974, there were no hidden stereo systems available. In fact, the first car cassette decks were just coming out. They were way too deep to stick in the center of the dash, not that I would consider carving it up in any case. I ended up removing the speaker panel out of the dash to put the radio in that location. Since that area is not very deep, I made two vertical cuts in the firewall and a horizontal cut between the bottoms of the vertical cuts. The sheet metal was then folded up to make a "roof" for the extended area. The sides were done in fiberglass and the exterior of the extension was painted black so that you can look right through the passenger side cowl grill and not even see it.

View attachment 48256

The wood dashboard look was really in for sports cars back then so I used a piece of mahogany to replace the speaker grill. I'm thinking that if I did it today, I'd probably cover it in black. Actually, I would not do it today as technology has left us with better options. However, you probably won't see many X1/9s with a stereo that does AM/FM, cassette, 12 CDs, and streams Bluetooth.
I always found the dead space up top would have been a better spot for air vents, but I guess Bertone thought they were ugly up there. The back of your 6.5” speakers project through the steel cutouts?
 
I'm going radioless. If I want to hear tunes I use my phone and a portable Bluetooth speaker.
ive been going radioless so far. Unfortunately I do listen to a lot of FM radio actually. My Iphone doesnt have an FM transmitter in it.
The ability to remove the radio if i would like does make me reconsider cutting the shelf vinyl....
 
I put some 6.5" two way speakers in the kick panels without impacting the space for my size 13 shoes. I cut a hole in the sheet metal so that the magnets were completely behind the sheet metal. I made a baffle from particle board to mount the speaker on. The baffle is attached to the sheet metal behind the carpet.


View attachment 48254

In 1974, there were no hidden stereo systems available. In fact, the first car cassette decks were just coming out. They were way too deep to stick in the center of the dash, not that I would consider carving it up in any case. I ended up removing the speaker panel out of the dash to put the radio in that location. Since that area is not very deep, I made two vertical cuts in the firewall and a horizontal cut between the bottoms of the vertical cuts. The sheet metal was then folded up to make a "roof" for the extended area. The sides were done in fiberglass and the exterior of the extension was painted black so that you can look right through the passenger side cowl grill and not even see it.

View attachment 48256

The wood dashboard look was really in for sports cars back then so I used a piece of mahogany to replace the speaker grill. I'm thinking that if I did it today, I'd probably cover it in black. Actually, I would not do it today as technology has left us with better options. However, you probably won't see many X1/9s with a stereo that does AM/FM, cassette, 12 CDs, and streams Bluetooth.
Ive reviewed your work in quite a few posts to come up with my speaker choice. I really didnt want to cut metal if i didnt have to. I have a set of computer speakers that have little ~2.5" speakers and you can power the whole house with these. I am hoping the 4"s and 4x6"s are enough.
 
Does anyone know what is the size of the square screw inserts that the engine shields use and that are throughout the footwell areas? I am away from my car for the weekend to take any measurements.
 
I always found the dead space up top would have been a better spot for air vents, but I guess Bertone thought they were ugly up there. The back of your 6.5” speakers project through the steel cutouts?
Yes, the magnets end up behind the sheet metal. There is quite a bit of volume in that cavity so you get some improvement in bass response over surface mounting them. The cavity in there appears to be weather tight enough. No issues since 1974.
 
Yes, the magnets end up behind the sheet metal. There is quite a bit of volume in that cavity so you get some improvement in bass response over surface mounting them. The cavity in there appears to be weather tight enough. No issues since 1974.
And, you get a few inches more leg room than the way mine are installed, on plywood in-front of the sheet metal. Your speakers essentially point inwards to the console?
 
And, you get a few inches more leg room than the way mine are installed, on plywood in-front of the sheet metal. Your speakers essentially point inwards to the console?
There is quite a bit of curvature in the sheet metal so I would say they are pointed at where the ashtray is.
 
There is quite a bit of curvature in the sheet metal so I would say they are pointed at where the ashtray is.
Hmmm. I may have to consider this then. If not for better bass then to also reclaim a little ankle room. Did you put those foam cups into the holes so the magnets are enclosed, or just open to the cavity? Any MDF just screwed down flat to the steel, right?
 
Hmmm. I may have to consider this then. If not for better bass then to also reclaim a little ankle room. Did you put those foam cups into the holes so the magnets are enclosed, or just open to the cavity? Any MDF just screwed down flat to the steel, right?
They are open to the cavity. The baffles are made from particle board like what is used for speaker enclosures. If I ever get far enough down the X to-do list, I may try putting in some really nice 6 x 9 three ways that I had in a Volvo.
 
They are open to the cavity. The baffles are made from particle board like what is used for speaker enclosures. If I ever get far enough down the X to-do list, I may try putting in some really nice 6 x 9 three ways that I had in a Volvo.
Those little, external 3.5” JBL’s I stuck on top of the shelf really make the system sound better at lower volumes, which was the key. Easy to listen to ‘Car Talk’ now…
 
ive been going radioless so far. Unfortunately I do listen to a lot of FM radio actually. My Iphone doesnt have an FM transmitter in it.
The ability to remove the radio if i would like does make me reconsider cutting the shelf vinyl....
HD Radio is what I’m after. FM is good, HD is great.
 
Does anyone know what is the size of the square screw inserts that the engine shields use and that are throughout the footwell areas? I am away from my car for the weekend to take any measurements.
AK, I'm not clear which pieces you are asking about? Are they kind of like this:

Once I know what you are after I can see if there are any left on my cars to measure.
 
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