JKIDD
Auto Addict
Will need to call it a 280zvSo it begins:
“brake booster hose is cracked & loose, so I redid it with some hose I had, Volvo check valve”
The Z guys are going to have a stroke
Selling the X & Bought an 75 Datsun 280Z
- Thread starter lookforjoe
- Start date
lookforjoe
True Classic
I didn't. I'm going to adjust the valves, I'll recheck after that.
I fixed the exhaust downpipe flange gasket today. Looking through his receipts, it was brought to his attention in 2016. Took quite awhile - one stud pulled out, and I found they have 10x1.25 on side and 10x1.5 on the other, so I had to save it. Heat & much back & forth to remove the nut, then thread chaser to clean it up. Studs back in
gasket in, buttoned up
While it was jacked up, I felt the front end for play. Let wheel bearing has significant play, right control arm bushings are GONE, rear control arm pivot bushings are ****ed, diff bangs around when I accelerate & shift. Good job I ordered all this (complete poly bushing kit, new pivot bolts, upper rear (240) mounts, diff mount:
Needed to do something fun after that, so since I already had it jacked up, I installed the Xenon front spoiler. It's very nicely made & substantial.
In all the video installs I looked at, they seem to have issues with the spoiler dropping/warping - the 280Z has a valance that the spoiler sits against, if you don't remove it..
Clamped the middle to secure it, marked & drilled the 4 outer end attachments. Instead of futzing with nuts & bolts, I just used M6 stainless rivnuts & M6 sems screws
For the leading edges, I used plastic body clips instead of bolts
Added two rivnuts to the center section to anchor it
All together (for now). I have a tall Skillet grille coming, and chrome skinny bumpers to complete the look. Ultimately, the spoiler will be body color. Added tape to where the bumper trim bolts went, covers up the extra unneeded holes.
I'll make some brake ducts, so those cutouts don't look out of place
kmead
Old enough to know better
The bright side is you will be starting with known good in regards to the bushings etc. Painful in the short term.
Did it come with the front bumper given the insets in both the body and accommodation in the spoiler.
Looking at the final pic it would be nice to go to a vertical front light up next to the squared edge where the hood and headlight nacelles come together. Small front side markers in line with the ends of the front bumper would be cool.
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lookforjoe
True Classic
Yeah, the car floats & is really vague. I'll be happy to tighten it all up
I bought the repro skinny chrome bumpers with rubber bump strips that match the early 240 style.
They should be here Monday. I'll add pics when they arrive. It fits in that recess area. Once that is on, I can figure out what needs to happen with lighting. The 240 has a much larger marker/directional under the bumper, in the valance. I don't actually prefer it, except that the grille opening is cleaner without the lights in there.
JKIDD
Auto Addict
lookforjoe
True Classic
Hey - did you do the valve adj yourself? The process is not obvious to me, and the manual is not helpful: If you refer to the et section, there are no 'details' to be had...
#5 exhaust - very tight, so were all the others I checked
Put it back together for the time being
Fixed the vent hoses for the aux air slide
Air slide looks like it's opening properly cold
more Volvo bits
I need to cut & rewire the injection harness hacks.
rx1900
1981 X1/9
Hey Hussein. although it has been likely 40 years since I adjusted the valves on a Datsun L series engine....I recall it was fairly easy. No special tools or different shims needed...as it is on a Fiat.
Unlike a Fiat - or Volvo - the cam does not ride directly on top of the valve. But uses a rocker arm instead.
On one end of the rocker arm - on the passenger side - the rocker has a round "socket" built into it. These fit over a bolt that screws into the head. The top of this bolt has a ball built into it, And a hex portion - 14mm if I recall. So....screwing this bolt up or down into the head will result in changing the clearance - as measured by a feeler gauge like you show - between the cam and the part of the rocker the cam rides against. Thus setting the proper valve clearance.
This rocker bolt has a jamb nut - 17mm as I recall - where the bolt enters the head - that locks the bolt to the desired height. So....if you need to adjust the clearance...just undo the jamb nut a bit and turn the bolt with a 14mm end wrench until the proper clearance is obtained. Then hold that bolt to the desired position with the 14mm wrench...and tighten the jamb nut to lock it into position.
This is kinda tough to describe...but read the above twice and look at the car.
and yeah.....my memory might be a little foggy....so try to find a YouTube video on it
I have a vague recollection that either the 14mm - or 17mm wrenches - or both - have to be fairly thin to fit in there......
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lookforjoe
True Classic
Bumper pieces arrived from Vietnam. Very well wrapped & isolated in the package. The Skillet grille is now supposed to be here tomorrow, so perhaps I'll get the front installed by Wednesday. The rear requires dropping the fuel tank & exhaust to access the bumper shocks, unless I elect to just sawmill off the protrusions for now.
Attachments
lookforjoe
True Classic
Hey Hussein. although it has been likely 40 years since I adjusted the valves on a Datsun L series engine....I recall it was fairly easy. No special tools or different shims needed...as it is on a Fiat.
Unlike a Fiat - or Volvo - the cam does not ride directly on top of the valve. But uses a rocker arm instead.
On one end of the rocker arm - on the passenger side - the rocker has a round "socket" built into it. These fit over a bolt that screws into the head. The top of this bolt has a ball built into it, And a hex portion - 14mm if I recall. So....screwing this bolt up or down into the head will result in changing the clearance - as measured by a feeler gauge like you show - between the cam and the part of the rocker the cam rides against. Thus setting the proper valve clearance.
This rocker bolt has a jamb nut - 17mm as I recall - where the bolt enters the head - that locks the bolt to the desired height. So....if you need to adjust the clearance...just undo the jamb nut a bit and turn the bolt with a 14mm end wrench until the proper clearance is obtained. Then hold that bolt to the desired position with the 14mm wrench...and tighten the jamb nut to lock it into position.
This is kinda tough to describe...but read the above twice and look at the car.
and yeah.....my memory might be a little foggy....so try to find a YouTube video on it
I have a vague recollection that either the 14mm - or 17mm wrenches - or both - have to be fairly thin to fit in there......
Thanks Doug - One of the T'Brickers described it in much the same way - now I know what I'm looking for it should be a no-brainer. I couldn't see the 14mm stud nut looking at it last evening.
twincam69
True Classic
I bought these for my ‘76. Haven’t installed yet but I’m impressed by the quality.
lookforjoe
True Classic
Had a few hours after work, so I focused on fitting the Skillet grille & the front bumper & brackets, after I replaced the 3 pedal pads
Brackets in first, then test fit bumper
With the bracket alignment figured out, I worked on the Skillet grille. 4 brackets are loosely fitted to the grille prior to mounting. I bought the full grille, not the bumper version, as that version has large cutouts on either side.
I cut narrow slots to allow the bumper brackets to pass through
Then I put the bumper on before I ran out of light. The fit is really nice. 4 M10 studs secured through the brackets with 17mm head stainless nuts. I'll put the spoiler back on tomorrow.
There are small bumper blocks that I also bought from ZcarDepot (800-924). A M6 bolt passes through the fender & into a captive nut in the bumper
Brackets in first, then test fit bumper
With the bracket alignment figured out, I worked on the Skillet grille. 4 brackets are loosely fitted to the grille prior to mounting. I bought the full grille, not the bumper version, as that version has large cutouts on either side.
I cut narrow slots to allow the bumper brackets to pass through
Then I put the bumper on before I ran out of light. The fit is really nice. 4 M10 studs secured through the brackets with 17mm head stainless nuts. I'll put the spoiler back on tomorrow.
There are small bumper blocks that I also bought from ZcarDepot (800-924). A M6 bolt passes through the fender & into a captive nut in the bumper
lookforjoe
True Classic
Did the motor mounts this afternoon, then worked on finishing the spoiler/bumper install
I'm happy with the fit & look. Not sure I needed to splurge for the Skillard grille, but I didn't want any of the gap I've seen without a full grille
Bumper fit around the fenders is very nice
used a pair of Volvo V70 inlet ducts modded to work as brake ducts. I'll refine them later
Finally, I had bought another steering wheel since mine is 'squishy", not knowing the hub is not a separate part on my 75...
I'm happy with the fit & look. Not sure I needed to splurge for the Skillard grille, but I didn't want any of the gap I've seen without a full grille
Bumper fit around the fenders is very nice
used a pair of Volvo V70 inlet ducts modded to work as brake ducts. I'll refine them later
Finally, I had bought another steering wheel since mine is 'squishy", not knowing the hub is not a separate part on my 75...
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lookforjoe
True Classic
I have them
Yes, it will be body color - it needs a fair amount of prep to finish surface defects from the casting process first
kmead
Old enough to know better
The hairpin spring keeps the rocker in contact with the ball end. Neat.Hey Hussein. although it has been likely 40 years since I adjusted the valves on a Datsun L series engine....I recall it was fairly easy. No special tools or different shims needed...as it is on a Fiat.
Unlike a Fiat - or Volvo - the cam does not ride directly on top of the valve. But uses a rocker arm instead.
On one end of the rocker arm - on the passenger side - the rocker has a round "socket" built into it. These fit over a bolt that screws into the head. The top of this bolt has a ball built into it, And a hex portion - 14mm if I recall. So....screwing this bolt up or down into the head will result in changing the clearance - as measured by a feeler gauge like you show - between the cam and the part of the rocker the cam rides against. Thus setting the proper valve clearance.
This rocker bolt has a jamb nut - 17mm as I recall - where the bolt enters the head - that locks the bolt to the desired height. So....if you need to adjust the clearance...just undo the jamb nut a bit and turn the bolt with a 14mm end wrench until the proper clearance is obtained. Then hold that bolt to the desired position with the 14mm wrench...and tighten the jamb nut to lock it into position.
This is kinda tough to describe...but read the above twice and look at the car.
and yeah.....my memory might be a little foggy....so try to find a YouTube video on it
I have a vague recollection that either the 14mm - or 17mm wrenches - or both - have to be fairly thin to fit in there.....
I found this on zcar.com in a post by Kevin Taylor
"How To Adjust Valves on a L-Series Engine"
www.zcar.com
This is a general instruction of "How To adjust Valves on a L-Series Engine" with a stock camshaft.
Note the following :
****************CAUTION*********** CAUTION *********CAUTION *******************
WHILE THE CAM COVER IS OFF, BE AWARE OF LOOSE OR FOREIGN OBJECTS IN YOUR WORK AREA THAT CAN POTENTIALLY FALL INTO THE OPEN ENGINE, SPECIFICALLY THE AREA FORWARD OF THE TIMING CHAIN.
*******************************************************************************
You'll need some basic hand tools:
* Screwdriver - Phillips
* 10 MM 1/4 Dr. socket w/ long extention
* Feeler gauges (.008", .010" and .012")
* Open-end Wrenches (14 MM & 17 MM),
* 27 MM socket on a breaker bar or a remote starter switch
* Torque wrench, 25-100 Ft pound range, minimum .
* 3/8 or 1/2 Dr 17 MM Crowsfoot or 1/2 Dr L28 Vlv Adj Tool from MSA.
You'll perform the adjustment twice, once while the engine is bone cold (basically for the sake of practice and to gain a feel for it) and again while the engine is hot and at operating temperature to finalize the adjustments.
Orientate yourself with the engine, such as the firing order and cylinder arrangement. Firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4, cylinders are numbered from front to back. Cylinders 1 & 6 will mirror each other but are 180 degrees out. Each cylinder is seperated by 60 degrees of crankshaft rotation.
Obtain and organize noted tools
***** Cold Adjustment *****
1.0) Gain Access
Open hood to gain access to cam cover. Dis-connect breather hose from elbow fitting common to the cam cover. Loosen all attach bolts (10 plcs) and remove fasteners. Pop cam cover free from cylinder head, remove cam cover and gasket, set aside to avoid contamination. Wipe excess oil from surfaces as required
*
2.0) Adjust #1 Cylinder
Rotate the Engine until the #1 Cylinder is @ TDC on the compression stroke.
*NOTE: This will be evident when both cam lobes are pointed upward at approximately the 11:00 & 1:00 O'Clock positions.
2.1) Measure Valve clearance
Insert the applicable feeler gauges in between the intake & exhaust cam lobes (.008" and .010" respectively) and the associated rocker arm from driver's side of the cam. Make note of the runners on the opposite side of the head to determine if it is a intake or exhaust. Check for slip fit at each Rocker arm.
** NOTE: On rocker arms with insufficient clearance (too tight valve clearance), it may be necessary to slaken the 17 MM locknut to obtain sufficient clearance it insert the feeler.
2.2) #1 Exhaust valve .010"
The #1 cylinder exhaust valve is the most forward cam lobe closest to the radiator. Loosen 17 MM locknut while holding Rocker Arm Pivot with a 14 MM open-end. Rotate pivot with 14 MM wrench until a slip fit with the .010" feeler gauge is obtained. Tighten 17 MM locknut to 40 Ft Lbs while holding Rocker Arm Pivot from moving. Re-check valve lash after tightening, as settings will have a tendency to close due to the stretching of the Pivot during tightening. Repeat adjustment as necessary until a slip fit of the feeler gauge is obtained
2.3) # 1 Cylinder Intake .008"
The #1 cylinder Intake valve is set to .008" Loosen 17 MM locknut while holding Rocker Arm Pivot with a 14 MM open-end. Rotate pivot with 14 MM wrench until a slip fit with the .008" feeler gauge is obtained. Tighten 17 MM locknut to 40 Ft Lbs while holding Rocker Arm Pivot from moving. Re-check valve lash after tightening, as settings will have a tendency to close due to the stretching of the Pivot during tightening. Repeat adjustment as necessary until a slip fit of the feeler gauge is obtained.
*
3.0) Adjust remaining Cylinders
Rotate Engine 60 degrees CW until the #5 Cylinder is @ TDC. Repeat steps 2.1 through 2.3 for the #5 Cylinder. Repeat the process until all cylinders have had both valve clearances adjusted per steps 2.1 through 2.3.
*
4.0) Re-assemble Engine
Re-assemble cam cover to cylinder head, noting the following:
4.1) Mouse trap springs are all secured in place, All pivot locknuts torqued OK, engine top end is FOD free, no tools or feelers left behind.
4.2) Cam Cover Gasket mating surfaces are clean and oil free. Gasket is in a good servicable condition. OEM Nissan gasket is re-usable if not torn or excessively worn.
4.3) Insert Cam Cover bolts to pick-up Gasket, use tabs on gasket to reposition gasket. Once all fasteners are installed, run bolts down buy hand with the 10 MM socket & extension just until the heads are seated.
4.4) Starting from the center, tighten Cam Cover bolts to 25 inch-Lbs followed by the opposing fastener on the opposite side, alternating front to back while tightening bolts. Repeat sequence until all fasteners are snug.
** NOTE: * * * * WARNING * * * *
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN CAM COVER BOLTS, STRPPING OF THREADS IN CYLINDER HEAD MAY OCCUR.
4.5) Re-connect breather hose to Cam Cover elbow, tightening clamp as required.
*
5.0) ***** Hot Adjustment ******
Adjust clearances as quickly as possible due to the cooling affect on the engine. The cold Adjust is done as a preliminary and the Hot adjust is final tweekage if and as required. Some valves may or may not need further action.
Start engine, heat soak the engine up to optimum operating temperature. Repeat adjustment steps 1.0 through 3.0 except as noted:
*NOTE: Hot Adjustment is the same as Cold Adjustment, except the valve clearances have increased approximately .002", thus the Hot Adjust is performed using the following feeler gauge sizes.
Hot Adjust Feeler gauge sizing: Intake = .010"/ Exhaust = .012"
5.1) Re-assemble engine to a normal servicable condition. Re-install Cam Cover as required.
6.0) Repeat Valve Adjustment every 30,000 miles or every tenth oil change.
Enjoy the ride
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