Selling the X & Bought an 75 Datsun 280Z

[rx1900]

Doug - any chance you could trace the outline of the chain tool & add dimensions? I've been told I may need to tension the chain by moving the cam gear pin to an new hole, given it has 250K miles. I haven't checked the slack, but it would be handy to have the tool around

Hey Hussein. no...i dont think a tracing would be good enough. This tool has been lovingly and precisely crafted from the finest Canadian wood. I have attached a pic that shows it in use. The pic is from the really cool book I have - pic also attached. i'd be happy to send you the tool at no charge. Shoot me a few bucks and I will send the book down with it.....

But NO....this tool will not enable you to "tension" the chain. That is done by a spring loaded tensioner....it is not adjustable. What you ARE referring to is that.....as the chain stretches the cam timing will change. To correct that...Datsun very cleverly used a top chain sprocket that could bolt on in 3 or so different pin positions. From the factory..I think the sprocket was bolted on to the "A" hole pin. I think that sounded bad.......When the chain stretched in service....the cam timing would of course change. So.....you unbolt the top sprocket and use the alternate "B' or "C" hole or something like that. That brings the cam timing back to proper. Understand?

Keep in mind this is from my memory from the 70's..so I might be a bit off....

But....to to be able to undo the top sprocket...easily visible when you take the valve cover off......if you just unbolted the sprocket....of course then the timing chain would just fall down into the timing cover area...and the tensioner would pop out all the way and you would be in big trouble. No way to access that tensioner unless you remove the oil pan and water pump, pulleys. timing cover, etc.....

So....to prevent all that...BEFORE you unbolt the top sprocket...you just jamb my finally crafted tool down the timing chest. This keeps the tensioner from extending. Then simply unbolt the top sprocket bolt in back on in a different position to correct the cam timing back to ideal.

So yeah....this corrects the cam timing...but of course does nothing about the stretched chain itself. Only replacing the chain would cure that. By the way...I recall that you indeed can change the chain in situ without taking off the timing cover. I think the chain had a master link and you could feed in a new chain...if you were careful......

The most common use of my tool was if you wanted to yank the head off. Again you would jamb my tool down there..and leave the chain tensioned in situ. Undo the cam sprocket and pull off the head...

It should be noted that the hole in my tool is for a chunk of rope to be tied onto it. So you could easily yank the tool back out. You would have to supply that and tie it on securely.....

 

[JKIDD]

Thankfully ZcarDepot actually has a billet version of the entire housing, and/or individual components available. It's certainly not cheap, but it is an option.

Ah - I didn't catch that - mine are the same wheel that you have wait, yours has a rear skirt of some kind? Can you show me more pics of it?

ZCAR has the early 2 bolt cap & later 3 bolt cap style, but I don't see the 75/76 2 bolt with the 4 ports for sensors.

Here are some quick pics of the rear valance. I assume it was a "kit" with the front. Both fiberglass.

 

[lookforjoe]

T/stat cover came off without too much drama. I had to block sand both surfaces, they were both pitted



Chased the threads in the housing, to clean it up. There is pitting in the underside of the cover neck, but the inside is clean. I can only presume coolant has been seeping past the (crappy) Gates upper hose, that wasn't quite the right ID.





Cleaned up the pitted area with a Dremel wire wheel, I'll fill it with JB Weld



Water pump bolts didn't feel great coming out, so I worked them back & forth fair bit. Mating surface mostly cleaned up here



The original hardware for the water pump cleaned up OK, but I think I'll use newer hardware. The T/stat bolts are nasty. The Volvo bolts have integrated flanges & are higher grade



While I was in the bay, I added an X1/9 brake line clip to replace the broken hood prop retainer (and put some primer on the area where the rad sits up against the panel



Checked the fit of the Volvo fan shroud on the rad - should work OK, the center of the fan motor will be offset to the left, and the water pump sits offset somewhat to the right. I'll test fit it once I figure out a suitable method of retaining the shroud flush to the rad core



motor..



Have to locate mating pins and/or water proof housing for the eFan connections - pretty sure they are Furukawa (Edit Yazaki 58 Y sealed)

 

[lookforjoe]

ZCAR has the early 2 bolt cap & later 3 bolt cap style, but I don't see the 75/76 2 bolt with the 4 ports for sensors.

Here are some quick pics of the rear valance. I assume it was a "kit" with the front. Both fiberglass.

Nice. I wonder how that would look with the skinny bumpers. I like the lowered edge, and since I have that Xenon spoiler, something like that would probably tie it together. I'll have to look around & see it there is any version still in production.

 

[lookforjoe]

Hey Hussein. no...i dont think a tracing would be good enough. This tool has been lovingly and precisely crafted from the finest Canadian wood. I have attached a pic that shows it in use. The pic is from the really cool book I have - pic also attached. i'd be happy to send you the tool at no charge. Shoot me a few bucks and I will send the book down with it.....

But NO....this tool will not enable you to "tension" the chain. That is done by a spring loaded tensioner....it is not adjustable. What you ARE referring to is that.....as the chain stretches the cam timing will change. To correct that...Datsun very cleverly used a top chain sprocket that could bolt on in 3 or so different pin positions. From the factory..I think the sprocket was bolted on to the "A" hole pin. I think that sounded bad.......When the chain stretched in service....the cam timing would of course change. So.....you unbolt the top sprocket and use the alternate "B' or "C" hole or something like that. That brings the cam timing back to proper. Understand?

Keep in mind this is from my memory from the 70's..so I might be a bit off....

But....to to be able to undo the top sprocket...easily visible when you take the valve cover off......if you just unbolted the sprocket....of course then the timing chain would just fall down into the timing cover area...and the tensioner would pop out all the way and you would be in big trouble. No way to access that tensioner unless you remove the oil pan and water pump, pulleys. timing cover, etc.....

So....to prevent all that...BEFORE you unbolt the top sprocket...you just jamb my finally crafted tool down the timing chest. This keeps the tensioner from extending. Then simply unbolt the top sprocket bolt in back on in a different position to correct the cam timing back to ideal.

So yeah....this corrects the cam timing...but of course does nothing about the stretched chain itself. Only replacing the chain would cure that. By the way...I recall that you indeed can change the chain in situ without taking off the timing cover. I think the chain had a master link and you could feed in a new chain...if you were careful......

The most common use of my tool was if you wanted to yank the head off. Again you would jamb my tool down there..and leave the chain tensioned in situ. Undo the cam sprocket and pull off the head...

It should be noted that the hole in my tool is for a chunk of rope to be tied onto it. So you could easily yank the tool back out. You would have to supply that and tie it on securely.....

View attachment 72427
View attachment 72428

OK - perhaps I misunderstood what the other fellow was saying, however what you describe is what he meant - correcting the cam timing from stretch of the chain. I'll message you regarding the tool and (cool) book

 

[rx1900]

I'll message you regarding the tool and (cool) book

Okay Hussein. Yes....that book is very cool. You would enjoy it. And just google that title and see what used copies are selling for on Ebay and Amazon !!

Tell you what.....I will send you down the book, the wedge tool, and even that funky Nissan 14/17mm wrench. All yours to keep, as I am not likely to have any more old Datsuns in my future. I'll even pay for the shipping. Just PM me your address.

BUT....only on two conditions...

First, that you make a small donation to the Xweb coffers. Say $20 or so. I understand this site is running low on funds to keep it going. Just go here:

How to Donate to XWeb

XWeb is entirely supported by the generosity of our user community. Donations are collected via Paypal and disbursed to cover expenses as they arise. If you wish to make a donation in any amount, you can visit paypal.me/xwebforums Thanks for your contributions!

xwebforums.com

And.....that you promise...that after you sell your X1/9...that you wont abandon us for all your new snooty Zcar friends And will continue to stop by now and then, to help out folks here with your X1/9 knowledge....and remind us what Volvo parts to use on our Fiats.

 

[lookforjoe]

Okay Hussein. Yes....that book is very cool. You would enjoy it. And just google that title and see what used copies are selling for on Ebay and Amazon !!

Tell you what.....I will send you down the book, the wedge tool, and even that funky Nissan 14/17mm wrench. All yours to keep, as I am not likely to have any more old Datsuns in my future. I'll even pay for the shipping. Just PM me your address.

BUT....only on two conditions...

First, that you make a small donation to the Xweb coffers. Say $20 or so. I understand this site is running low on funds to keep it going. Just go here:

How to Donate to XWeb

XWeb is entirely supported by the generosity of our user community. Donations are collected via Paypal and disbursed to cover expenses as they arise. If you wish to make a donation in any amount, you can visit paypal.me/xwebforums Thanks for your contributions!

xwebforums.com

And.....that you promise...that after you sell your X1/9...that you wont abandon us for all your new snooty Zcar friends And will continue to stop by now and then, to help out folks here with your X1/9 knowledge....and remind us what Volvo parts to use on our Fiats.

Absolutely. I donated $50. Seems fair for one of the only forums left that doesn't bombard you with popups & other crap

 

[lookforjoe]

ZCAR has the early 2 bolt cap & later 3 bolt cap style, but I don't see the 75/76 2 bolt with the 4 ports for sensors.

The billet one has 4 ports

 

[chumley]

Looking good keep pics coming takes me back you gonna fit headlamp covers had them on mine

 

[lookforjoe]

Looking good keep pics coming takes me back you gonna fit headlamp covers had them on mine

Indeed! I have them ready to go, after I put in the H4 headlamps

Cleaned up around the crank, and removed the pulley & old seal. Definitely well hardened. There is a decent wear groove on the pulley seal neck, so I made sure to alter the seal depth for the new one







After that I cut down the Volvo bolts to match the Nissan length (checked that at the full length they would bottom out before pulling the pump tight to the casing)



New pump back on



Repaired T/stat cover





Volvo bolts, cut down to match Nissan original length, with 10mm heads to make it easier to access by the fuel lines, and harder to overtighten



In other news, going to add a fuel pressure gauge over here



And got a new throttle cable accordian boot. Not planning on driving it in the rain, but I don't want NY weather working it's way into the cabin

 

[JKIDD]

The billet one has 4 ports

My cap had only 2 bolts. The 3 bolt were 77 up & as I recall the orientation of the threaded holes is different + 1 is larger. It can be made to work, but you have to bush 1 hole down. I went used, not only as it was less money, but I wanted the patina & I would have had to buy a cap as well. This would have stood out in an otherwise well preserved engine bay.

 

[lookforjoe]

Played with the eFan. No way it's gonna work. I can't get clearance no matter what. I don't want to use an aftermarket eFan, they just don't have the pull of the Bosch units.



So, I trimmed the Volvo (Aisin) fan to fit the Nissan clutch



I trimmed the top half of a Volvo standard shroud to fit, I don't like the fan blade exposed. Riveted brackets to either side of the rad vertical plates to retain it ( I used 3M Velcro to hold it while I figure those out)

While I was in there, I fixed the distributor vacuum line/tee connection to the TB and charcoal cannister





The distributor wiring had been nicked at some point by the fan, so I re-routed that, and added a sealed 2 pole timer connection where the wire was damaged (no pic)




Rewired the AFM also - blurry pic. The heat sheath below is on the dist wiring - since it is now closer to the manifold.

the orifice tube will be in the #6 hose from the evaporator to the condenser, in the engine bay. The expansion valve gets gutted or removed if possible.



Accumulator will go pretty much where the receiver/drier was placed, but higher up. Has #12 fittings, I will step down to #10 hose. low pressure switch goes on the accumulator (Four Seasons 33197, Volvo 740 application).

 

[Lowtechprime]

You're going to get a some kind of smack-down from the Japanese Gods... That's entirely too many Swedish parts on a Japanese car!

 

[lookforjoe]

Had to sketch out the overall AC ayout. This is following the hose routing of my dealer-installed universal/generic AC kit. This is also assuming I don't use any stock factory AC lines, which is still an option I'm considering. Once I have the dash & HVAC box apart & can see what the evaporator looks like, I can make a more informed decision on that.



Seltech compressor, this one was specifically sold for Volvo 240 & 740 series cars.



I'm going to modify the steel mount bracket on mine to move the compressor back. Mine uses the rear groove on the pulley. The compressor was one of the reasons I could fit the eFan/shroud, so I'm hoping I can revisit that once I have the compressor repostioned



Definitely room to move the compressor back at least the inch or so needed



I did forget to measure the ear spacing on the new one to compare (3.25" on the installed unit), however that is a pretty standard measurement, so hopefully it's the same or I will have more work involved in modding the mount bracket

 

[lookforjoe]

I made a bracket when I got home -

tack welded a few pieces of cut up bracketry to test

I only have a finger width between the back lower edge & the steering shaft, so I didn't want to move it any further rearward . Made the upper support bracket to have 2 mounts at the shield, and holes to allow the stock bay light bracket to stay where it belongs. Engine harness lays nicely over the bracket. I curved the left side to both make it more rigid, and to make sure there is no harsh edge for the harness to chafe on.

I'm thinking of revising the compressor mount. Volvo setups all have rubber isolators on the pivot and adjusters to reduce vibrations. They use aluminum mount brackets, which I'm not prepared to modify to fit (pic of my old Volvo 740)





What I can do is weld these steel sleeves to my existing mount bracket, to match the mount design

 

[Bjorn Nilson]

For inspiration...

Black, White, and So Right: This Toyota-Powered 1977 Datsun 280Z Rules

The ups and downs of creating an old school Z-car dream build.

www.motortrend.com

 

[carl]

Simply delicious....and I'm just talking about the styling and interior.

 

[lookforjoe]

I did get the 300ZX T rear rotors redrilled to 4x114.3 using the Milfab template. I had to redraw the center to 67mm, as the printed version they send was only 66mm ID. I used an xacto to carefully cut out one locating hole so that it is a snug fit on a stud, then center-punched the other 3. I also used the steel wheel center I cut off the spare wheel to test fit the rotor.

as provided:





laminated the template to make it rigid enough to be useful



Checked the spacing & offset on each relative to each other and the inner & outer hub lips before drilling



All done

 

[lookforjoe]

I made a start on redoing the fuel lines. I used sleeved 10mm nitrile line with quick-connect fittings. The ends are clamped to the hard lines, and are not intended to be removed moving forward. The quick connect fittings allow you to disconnect the rail from the feed & return.

Did the return first. Rerouted behind the filter to get it away from the motor. Support bracket previously attached to the filter clamp is now secured it at the inner fender



QC fittings for the (Volvo application, Mahle KL 196) filter





needed a longer M5 bolt





while I was there I added a branch to allow me to add the fuel pressure gauge (M10x1 w/QC, 1/8" NPT)





Used a left over silicone elbow from my C30 turbo upgrade, prefect fit for the torn filter-AFM elbow

 

[lookforjoe]

I spent Fri-Sun in Philly with a bunch of Art Honor students. Joe came along

When I got home Sunday, I found that the overnight deluge Sat allowed water ingress in the Datsun - It's in a odd place, since it doesn't correspond to the hatch seal/opening which sits further back.

Basically all along the ridge where the cubbies are had water pooled, and from there it had run through the cubbies, out the drains & onto the floor pans. The box absorbed a bunch of it, which is what caught my eye (panel is already mopped up in this pic).