Starting Issues

Starter removal...

...aft access panel is on opposite side from starter.
Forward access panel allows access to dizzy,
but is too far towards pass side to aid in starter removal.
So...the access panels don't facilitate starter removal.

Starter removal is done from bottom of car.
Having done removal dozens of times,
I always disconnect coolant hoses at bottom,
and push 'em out of the way.
Faster/easier than wrassling with rubber octopus (octopii?).
IMHO.
 
Well I lied. I did crawl back underneath and have at it. Finally, after deciding there was no way I was going to get that top bolt out let alone back in, I started taking off air intake bits. Discovered that there is NO air filter in the can....nice. Wonder if that effects how she runs (ran) as I know on some motorcycles I play with absence of air filter "restriction" make the bike almost unrunnable. Anyway, after clearing the way and swearing (in Italian). Starter fell out. Two bolts only and one locating ring. It is in my car (my daily driver, a Dodge) and I will take it in for testing today. I hate to spend another $100 on a rebuild but this thing seems loosey goosey to me like bushings have had it or something (but I've only torn into starters a few times so I don't know what make a "bad one"). There used to be a great dirty slimely hole in the wall shop near me that rebuilds, I can't see how they could still be in business but maybe.
I did go through the access panel and while it didn't help with starter much I learned some things. It sure looks like I'm the first to go through there, it looks factory fresh which is nice. First mountain climbed. Thanks for the help, NO WAY I could tackle old car wrenching without resources like you guys. A thousand thank you-s for taking the time to read and post. I hope to someday give some back.
 
Took starter to Autozone. Pronounced DOA. Glad to hear I wasn't wasting time trying to extract it (I never really doubted that anyway).
Now, they can get me a reman for $75 (about the going rate it seems). My old starter shop is gone. There are others. I think I'll go for a price on getting mine rebuilt but I doubt it's worth the effort. I still might tear mine apart for the learning experience, can't hurt, only waste time and time spent learning isn't wasted anyway.
 
Before you tear your old one apart...

and then go to buy a different one, you might keep in mind that whoever you buy one from will likely want the old one for a rebuildable core. Otherwise they will tack on a "core charge" to the cost of the new starter. Some places charge more than others, make sure you know how much your learning experience is going to cost you.

Pete
 
After my lesson, I'll still have all the pieces (a core). Throw them back together (mangled or not, they don't care). I might as well examine what I've got. I guess. Rebuild shop wants $100+ to rebuild mine. Obviously not worth it unless the reman ones are total junk....with a life time warranty although swapping it every month or year is no picnic.
 
NO... under the car at the trans to body...

There is a braided cable... which is the ONLY ground wire connecting the engine to the chassis.

I guarantee ya its corroded... Remove it and clean up the cable and the points it mounts to.

Also... when ya have a chance, buy another strap or cable and mount it up on TOP of the engine... usually between the body and the cam tower... so you will have a secondary path that stays clean.

If I'm right, I'll send you a bill...

ALSO... "bench test" he starter THOUGH the solenoid in the front trunk of the car using jumper cables when you remove it or before reinstalling.

AND... install the wiring FIRST before putting it up, and remvoe it AFTER taking it down. Much easier than trying to install the wiring once its mounted.

Keep up the good work...
 
I did clean up the ground strap from bell housing to chassis (broke bolt in the process, used an open hole and a new bolt), took the strap to the bench, wire wheeled the ends, flattened back out in vise, wire wheeled the spots on chassis and bell housing, dialectric grease. Had no effect on the bum starter. Good thing to do in any case.
I'll do the second brown 10ga wire to fuse box and a new larger gage ground from battery to chassis, all for good measure.

BTW I'm apparently only loosing .5 volts or so, 13.25 at battery, 13.2 from alternator lug to ground. I take that as a sign that the engine it is pretty well grounded.
 
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