+1Please keep us informed !!
Bearing doesn't give you any benefits, as the strut and the mount do not (should not) rotate in relation to one another, the shock's body and spring rotate on turn relative to strut and mount.
Let me assemble everything on Saturday to confirm that it functions ok and no additional work is required, then I'll post details. BTW I made 2 extra pieces, will probably offer them in FS&W forum.Nicely done Jovani. When you have time please post the dimensions and details so others can make the fillers if desired. Thank you.
Jovani, this statement about the rears not needing a 'filler'. On the rears, are you going to use the stock bump-stop/dust-boot assembly? It has a steel 'cone' on the top that rides into the rubber portion of the stock mount's lower side. Does that steel cone fit into the Focus mount (where you are putting your aluminum 'filler' on the fronts)?The aluminium filler piece is the only thing we need (front only, rears don't need anything)
In short - yes, the "hat" fits the Focus bottom void. But the original brim of the hat is too thick (tall) for what we do. Using it raises the mount assembly by 8mm. Not much, but wrong way to go on originally front taller car. And it is more difficult to set it on a lathe for reshaping than to make new one. Here is the catch, I got the only Focus mount in stock from local NAPA and made a pair of hats. When they called me for the other three mounts, what a surprise - different manufacturing ad different shape of the bottom void. Same depth and diameter, but the curved part was sharper (smaller radius). So I had to rework my parts and that's how I know it's times quicker to make new ones.Anyway, the rear is different story in a good, I hope, way, The worst case is if the deepest (flat) surface of the void and the top flat surface of the rear "hat" don't touch, then a shim with 12mm ID is needed, cost 15 cents, thickness up to 2mm. BUT it all depends on the mount manufacturer, my first one with larger curve radius took the hat all the way in. So will see tomorrow. The bad news is that (BTW as I expected) the steering feel is not improved over the original with new tight mounts. The reason is that the sandwiched rubber "gives" slightly when you only wiggle the steering wheel before thrust washer begins to rotate. Wheels respond fine of course, but the feel is "gummy". This is not noticeable in motion though. But it is a room for improvement, so I will go with roller bearings and yet will keep same assembly height if not shaving down a few more millimeters. It's all designed, need to order bearings, $4 each and machine centering shims for them. Here are todays pics. Camber for first time is dead onJovani, this statement about the rears not needing a 'filler'. On the rears, are you going to use the stock bump-stop/dust-boot assembly? It has a steel 'cone' on the top that rides into the rubber portion of the stock mount's lower side. Does that steel cone fit into the Focus mount (where you are putting your aluminum 'filler' on the fronts)?
I ask because the steel cone on top of the rears is the exact same shape as the stock aluminum cone on the fronts. So if the rears fit the Focus mounts, then the fronts should to.
Looking forward to hearing more input after you have time to assemble things. Thanks.
the Focus bottom void
On those last Focus mounts you said the bottom cup was the same depth and diameter as the first one. So aside from the different contour, what is the diameter and depth of that bottom void?Same depth and diameter
Same as the top, they are identical. I remember the diameter, 1.220", but never wrote down the depth. However, this is not important, the problem was that my second order of mounts had shaper curve on the sandwiched washers (transition from flat to cylinder) thus the bottom "hat" wouldn't go all the way in to touch the end of the void. They must touch so you can tighten the whole assembly. Same on top regarding the non-turn :hat" . So shims with specific OD. ID and thickness must be added. (about 1.200" each). The problem is that the strut's thread is just not long enough with all added ****, nylon of nylon lock nut is barely catching. The other obvious side effect is that the rear assembly is taller than the original anyway and with added shims it becomes just over 1/2" taller. I personally don't mind, because my car front was visibly higher, now it is perfectly leveled. And boy, what a nice and firm ride!!! The wobbly steering feel was due to missing passenger side rack centering bushing. Got awesome solution, but will describe later.On those last Focus mounts you said the bottom cup was the same depth and diameter as the first one. So aside from the different contour, what is the diameter and depth of that bottom void?