Tool thread

This tool was discussed in another thread. Basically it combines a air hammer with a breaker bar to allow frozen fasteners to break loose for removal. The left end mounts into the air hammer, a long handle wrench is used on the hex portion, and a bit or socket is attached to the square drive on the right end:
s-l300.jpg

The concept is the air hammer "vibrates" the fastener while you apply torque to the wrench to twist it free.

The internet says it works wonders on frozen door hinge bolts. Having tried everything else, without much success, I decided to make one and try it on a X1/9 hinge bolt.

Starting with a spare air tool attachment (I've got several old ones) I cut off the 'chisel' end and ground four flats on the remaining shank (left side in the pic below). Making the end the same 3/8" square drive as a standard socket (hidden in the middle of the pic). Then I took a old 3/8" extension (right side of pic) and welded a large nut onto it (toward the middle):

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Here it is attached to the air hammer for reference:

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When I tried it on a very frozen door hinge bolt I was shocked at how easily the bolt came free, with no damage whatsoever. These things really do work as the internet claims. :)
 
Interesting.
Do you think this works a whole lot better than a strong impact gun?
In theory that does a similar thing doesn‘t it?
 
Interesting.
Do you think this works a whole lot better than a strong impact gun?
In theory that does a similar thing doesn‘t it?
Actually I think this tool is a LOT better than any impact gun. I've tried a couple different types of impacts; small hand/hammer type and two driven types - one mildier cordless and one gonzo air driven. But not only did they not free these door hinge bolts, they damaged the "phillips" slots in the bolt heads. That made getting the bolts out almost impossible without some serious mangling. This "air hammer" version does not rotate like a impact tool does. It simply drives straight into the bolt with a somewhat mild but rapid "vibration". So it can't rip up the phillips head screw/bolt. You use a wrench on the extension to apply rotational torque. Just give the hammer several blows first, then slowly apply torque to the wrench as you continue to drive the air hammer. And the bolt unthreaded as if it wasn't frozen. No penetrating oil, no heat, no fighting with it, no bashed hands.

The commercial version is called something like "shake and break" I think. You can research it online.
 
I’ve always used this for removing the Philips door hinge bolts. Guess it’s the same basic idea.
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Well not really, it isn't quite the same. That is a impact hammer. It rotates the bit as it impacts forward. There is no control of how much rotational force it applies. The rotation is what chews up the phillips head slots on these hinge bolts. They are frozen and don't turn but the impact tool is turning - something has to give. Unfortunately is tends to be the phillips slots.

The difference with the "shake and break" type tool is it does not apply any rotational movement as it impacts forward....only the forward impact. Your hand on the wrench is what allows any rotation. That way you can "feel" it to determine when things have broken loose (threads become less frozen), and then apply some gentle rotational torque. And you have complete control of how much torque is applied, unlike other impact tools. Begin lightly and proceed more as you feel it begin to turn, just as you would with a regular wrench on a tight bolt.

Don't get me wrong, the type of impact tool you show is usually the best way to remove stubborn hinge bolts. That was always my first choice to try. IF that doesn't work right away I stop before the bolt head gets chewed up. That is when something more is needed. The problem was always deciding what else to try. As I described earlier most impact tools usually do more damage than good (for truly frozen fasteners). This "shake and break" seems to be effective and less damaging.

I should also clarify the difference of what I mean by a "stubborn" bolt vs a "frozen" one. Especially on the X's door hinge bolts I typically find one of two conditions; either they come out relatively easy (although seldom in my experience), or they are completely frozen and nothing short of destruction will remove them (we discussed this at length in another thread recently). If yours are the former, then the tool you mention will work. However if they are not then I'd suggest this "shake and break" approach.

I'll also note that in the past I've tried to do a similar "hammering" approach by putting the phillips bit on a old extension, then use a large hammer to drive impact blows straight into (same plane) the bolt head (with no rotation). Often with some difficult fasteners that will break it lose enough that more traditional tools can then remove it. However for some reason that hasn't worked for these X hinge bolts (at least not for me...I usually give up after hitting my hand with hammer a few times). With the air hammer it receives rapid, repetitive, forward only, blows. And with the shake and break you can add some rotation to it as appropriate.
 
I'm looking for suggestions. I'd like to find a "glue tube dispenser" tool of some sort. It is for squeezing the tubes of heavy adhesives, sealants, etc. I found a couple possibilities but they don't really fit the bill.

The style that first came to mind looks like this:
51BRlUSDVSL._AC_SL1000_.jpg

Basically a plier tool for the glue tube. However I only found two listings for it and the prices were a bit high in my opinion, for what it is (around $50).

The only other thing I found were toothpaste tube dispensers. However they seem way too ineffective for my intended use. The better looking design was this:
71ym3gqWF8L._AC_SL1200_.jpg

I appeared that it might work but the reviews were not great. Although it is much more affordable (around $10-15).

What has anyone seen or tried to assist in squeezing ("dispensing") thick materials from plastic tubes (silicone seal, thick glue, etc)? As my handicap gradually worsens I'm finding it difficult to effectively use such products.


EDIT: I just found a better version of the second style (above). It appears to be much heavier duty and should work. However it isn't much more affordable than the first type (this one is around $40):
81z6mCpSQ+L._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 
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Actually I think this tool is a LOT better than any impact gun. I've tried a couple different types of impacts; small hand/hammer type and two driven types - one mildier cordless and one gonzo air driven. But not only did they not free these door hinge bolts, they damaged the "phillips" slots in the bolt heads. That made getting the bolts out almost impossible without some serious mangling. This "air hammer" version does not rotate like a impact tool does. It simply drives straight into the bolt with a somewhat mild but rapid "vibration". So it can't rip up the phillips head screw/bolt. You use a wrench on the extension to apply rotational torque. Just give the hammer several blows first, then slowly apply torque to the wrench as you continue to drive the air hammer. And the bolt unthreaded as if it wasn't frozen. No penetrating oil, no heat, no fighting with it, no bashed hands.

The commercial version is called something like "shake and break" I think. You can research it online.
Just spend some time researching this and it looks like this is the best solution, looking at it I would have never thought this was the solution but all the reviews convinced me. Kudos Jeff!
 
Just spend some time researching this and it looks like this is the best solution, looking at it I would have never thought this was the solution but all the reviews convinced me. Kudos Jeff!
Full disclosure, I've only used the "shake and break" type impact tool on one pair of X1/9 doors (one car) so far. It worked excellent; I'd tried all other approaches on one of those doors (bolts) with zero success before finally making this tool. But with this tool all of the bolts (on booth doors) came right out without any damage. Perhaps it might be possible the bolts for the first door had been 'started' by the previous attempts, making it easier for this to work? But the second door had not been attempted prior to using the tool, so I don't think that was the case. However I really need to use it on several others before I can say for certain that it is the best solution.
 
Back in post #142 I discussed a impact tool for frozen fasteners, typically referred to as the "shake and break". I just noticed a ad from Harbor Freight featuring a set of two of them - with 3/8" and 1/2" drives. The price for the pair is much better than the price for one from other sources:

 
Going back to a few earlier posts (even as far back as post #15), we've had discussions about sand-blast cabinets and related subjects. This is another such post.

Wet blasting ("vapor", "honing", "dustless", whatever you wish to call it) has been around a long time and has its benefits for some applications. I've been noticing a number of "DIY" conversions of dry blasting cabinets into wet blasting....yet another of the countless "upgrades" to the HF blast cabinet. So I wasted a couple hours looking at numerous sites discussing this conversion. I don't know if I'd be too interested in building a wet blasting cabinet, but in the process of reading about them I stumbled onto a couple interesting ideas.

The first one can be used for either wet or dry blasting by changing the settings. It is a 3D printed blasting gun that is modeled on the better industrial gun designs. With 3D printing it should be easy and affordable to make. This guy has developed the print file to do it. Here's a link for more info:
I'd be curious to hear from experienced 3D print people if this seems like a viable item to print.

I also saw where a guy converted his blast cabinet to be capable of doing multiple operations, including wet blasting, parts hot washing, and cold rinsing. But the interesting part was how he designed it so the hot washer shares the same gun as the wet blaster, therefore it has air pressure forcing the hot degreaser solution at the parts. Basically combining a degreaser washer, a hot tank process, and a blast function all at the same time. And the results were impressive. We know heating a cleaning solution adds energy to the reaction to make it work better. And we know adding forced air to create a "pressure washer" effect also works better. Now do both - heat it and force spray it. There are commercial hot pressure washer machines available but they are crazy expensive. This guy's DIY cabinet was kind of a scaled down version that could be made relatively affordably.

Another related video I saw was a engine machine shop comparing the various cleaning processes they have available. That included a hot tank, a "dish washer" type cleaner, a bake oven, a tumbler shot-peening machine, and wet blasting with glass beads. The choice of what to use partly depends if the parts are aluminum or iron. But in most cases it is a combination of at least two or three processes. Typically it starts with baking to cook the heavy crud. Followed by wet blasting to remove the residue. Then a session in the dishwasher to clean out the glass; one washer has a caustic solution for iron and the other has a aqueous solution for aluminum. And in some cases a run through the tumbler. The interesting comment was how wet blasting was the most effective at removing not only carbon buildup but also the scale in coolant passages. However a while back we had a discussion about how to clean out coolant passages and it was found that blasting was limited to only the areas easily accessible by the blast gun, which is basically the little bit that you can see with a direct line of sight. I've also heard that those dishwasher cleaning machines won't remove all of the particles left by blasting. So I'm not sure I fully agree with those guys.
 
Jeff, this is a lot of info in a couple of paragraphs. Not often I have to go back a re-read a couple of times. For the vapor blaster, we are talking about using Co2 or Dry Ice as the medium? This should work pretty good as the abrasive really does not exist, so it should not destroy the part too quickly. Depending on the medium used to print, I don't see why this wouldn't work well, at least well enough to complete the entire job before having to possibly print another one.

For some reason, at lunch I have been watching similar Youtube videos as well in regards to parts cleaners, and also the comparisons vs. popular items such as Purple Power, ZEP, etc. and depending on what you are cleaning they recommend different items as well.

I still think the best combo I found was a dishwasher running on hot with a cup of "Tang" instant drink powder. I don't know why, but man it works well. I also accidentally discovered that Monster energy drink cleans grease really well. My counter is very stained with oil and crud. I have tried to clean it multiple times. Anyways, the kids left a can of Monster on the counter and of course I spilled it. Went to wipe it up and was left with a very nice clean spot. Makes you wonder what we are eating/drinking!
 
Jeff, this is a lot of info in a couple of paragraphs. Not often I have to go back a re-read a couple of times. For the vapor blaster, we are talking about using Co2 or Dry Ice as the medium? This should work pretty good as the abrasive really does not exist, so it should not destroy the part too quickly. Depending on the medium used to print, I don't see why this wouldn't work well, at least well enough to complete the entire job before having to possibly print another one.

For some reason, at lunch I have been watching similar Youtube videos as well in regards to parts cleaners, and also the comparisons vs. popular items such as Purple Power, ZEP, etc. and depending on what you are cleaning they recommend different items as well.

I still think the best combo I found was a dishwasher running on hot with a cup of "Tang" instant drink powder. I don't know why, but man it works well. I also accidentally discovered that Monster energy drink cleans grease really well. My counter is very stained with oil and crud. I have tried to clean it multiple times. Anyways, the kids left a can of Monster on the counter and of course I spilled it. Went to wipe it up and was left with a very nice clean spot. Makes you wonder what we are eating/drinking!
Ya, I was wide awake late last night surfing the web and then wrote what was on my mind. Thanks for taking the time to read it. ;)

The wet blasting articles that I saw were mainly using glass beads for the media. Some mentioned other media like garnet. Basically it is what I think might commonly be called "dustless blasting"; a pressure stream of water with the media mixed in the water. I agree that "vapor blasting" would likely be something more like dry ice or such. But I see all of the related terms are getting used interchangeably. Most of the articles I saw for the water + glass bead technique referred to it as vapor.

One guy mentioned the preferred type of filament to use for 3D printing the gun but I don't recall what it was called. He said his has had a lot of use for some time and does not show any signs of wear. Apparently the water prevents the gun from wearing too quickly.

When I referred to a "dishwasher" earlier I was talking about the commercial machines made for cleaning parts. I've heard of using a home dishwasher for cleaning parts but never with Tang. Makes me wonder what it does to your gut. :oops:
 
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For the 3D printed stuff, I would think running anything through it which is abrasive would result in a high wear scenario and probably destroy the piece in a short period of time, but hey, if it's just a day of printing and .50 cents of material, might be worth it?

A normal, 2nd hand (and can usually be found for free) dishwasher makes for an excellent parts cleaner. Just make sure the heating elements work well so you can have a very hot wash.
 
the comparisons vs. popular items such as Purple Power, ZEP, etc. and depending on what you are cleaning they recommend different items as well
I intended to ask if you came away with any good recommendations for cleaning agents. Was there a general recommendation for certain products to use on specific types of items? I know we discussed this in a older thread but always like to hear the latest experiences.
 
These printed guns use a ceramic nozzle - as do the "proper" guns.
However the blast media still travels through the body of the gun. Including the area where the water and media mix, prior to the nozzle. It might eventually wear those passages over time. In one write up the guy found that happening so he changed the STL file to provide more layers of the printed material (vs the support material) around the critical areas.
 
I bought this little flashlight about a year ago and it's now part of my EDC. It has replaced a shop light for working on my cars for like 99% of the time now. The magnets allow me to stick it in the wheel well, under the dash, in the engine compartment, anywhere I need hands-free lighting to do a job. The side LED's do a fantastic job of providing broad illumination (as opposed to spotlight) to do most jobs. Highly recommended.

 
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