Before I go cutting up an old dogbone, does anyone know the the rod connecting the two bushings is solid metal or if it is a tube? Thanks
Thanks Brian, I watched a couple videos on how to make rods adjustable and I may end up doing that in the end. If I have a chance to bash something with a big hammer, or in this case a big press, I want to give it a go and see what happens. I really only need a tiny bit of adjustment to move my header away from a support it is rattling against. I have replaced the lower mount and dog bone, the snail looks fine. A 1300 rod is too short and the 1500 rod is too long. Once I get into the project I will also look at the mount on the head end to see if it can be "adjusted". I think even 1/8" would make a difference.You could get the appropriate size one of these and tap the ends to make it adjustable. https://midwestcontrol.com/shop/MHT-M12-80
I seem to recall there was a suggestion to use the 124's rubber bushings in the X1/9's dog bone. But there may have been one about making a new bone with 124 parts as well.Wasn't there a thread about making a dog bone from a modified 124 spider rear axle locating arm?
On one of my cars the dog bone was cut and welded in the middle like you describe. And it was not welded straight; the center rod has a 'kink' to it. At first I thought a prior owner must have done it. But in one of the forum conversations about dog bones I was told the supplier this one came from sells them that way. I cannot understand why they do this, possibly they sourced some really inexpensive ones that do not fit so they modify them to sell for this application? The rubber bushings in it are also of very poor quality, with a "made in" stamp from a very peculiar country.The newish mount has a weld in the center of the bar that joins the ends
On one of my cars the dog bone was cut and welded in the middle like you describe. And it was not welded straight; the center rod has a 'kink' to it. At first I thought a prior owner must have done it. But in one of the forum conversations about dog bones I was told the supplier this one came from sells them that way. I cannot understand why they do this, possibly they sourced some really inexpensive ones that do not fit so they modify them to sell for this application? The rubber bushings in it are also of very poor quality, with a "made in" stamp from a very peculiar country.
Jim, if rocking the engine without a mount in place did not replicate the noise then perhaps it is caused by something else? If indeed it is the exhaust system hitting the cross member then I think you might want to address the exhaust rather than the engine mount.
Is it possible to modify the crossmember to make clearance?
Sorry Jim, I misread your earlier comment....thought it did not change the gap.Rocking the engine did change the header tube to cross member gap, just not enough to make a big difference IMHO.
What make is the header?