Vicks SS Header

JDExSquid

JDExSquid

Dodge 2.2TII Swap
I've read all of the previous posts I could find. Is there anyone here running a newer stainless header from Vick Auto? The price point is good, but I'd like some opinions before I install it on my A/C car.
 
I don't know about those headers, But I do know the header on my wife's car goes under the rear cross member and hangs low if I was looking for a header that would be one of the things I would avoid. (Also it can't be removed/installed with the head installed without removing the passenger side drive axle. (replaced head gasket pulled header with the head removed to fix it and did not think to re-install before putting the head on)

thought I would mention putting the thoughts in the back of your mind as you look for which header to buy.
 
JDExSquid said:
I've read all of the previous posts I could find. Is there anyone here running a newer stainless header from Vick Auto? The price point is good, but I'd like some opinions before I install it on my A/C car.
Click to expand...

Hi Jim,

I have 2 non-AC Xs with the old Vick's header, so I am no help really. The info page for the header on the Vick's website has this note regarding AC:
- Air Conditioning - Over the years our headers have been fit to every year model of X1/9, many with AC. However, most require new AC lines to be made to clear the header. On some years the compressor itself is simply too large to clear the header and would require a different compressor to fit.
Click to expand...
So it seems you can make it work, but it sounds like the price point increases depending on the amount of work you need to do to your X to get the fitment issues resolved.
 
Rod, is the AC why you can't remove and install the header? I have under the frame headers on both cars and have no problem but I don't have AC. Does anyone even make headers that go through the stock hole in the rear firewall?
 
The Allison exhaust I have goes thru the stock hole; I still have to smog my car, so I needed a cat.
Not stainless, though.
 
This car is non-AC.

IMG_1083.JPG
IMG_1143.JPG


here are two pictures of it.

FYI I did weld the crack back together and so far it is holding.
 
Regarding the A/C clearance notations. Keep in mind there were different A/C setups used; the early ones with the huge York "box" compressor were very intrusive. So the cautionary note (in Vick's listing) might be referencing things like that. Also the stock hose layout on a factory A/C car is very poor - for many reasons. Not to mention, if they are the original hoses they likely leak by now. So having to reroute them is a great idea anyway (in my opinion). This also makes an excellent opportunity to upgrade the A/C system as described in other threads.

Regarding headers that are routed under the crossmember. I agree with the comment made about ground clearance. But I also lower all my cars so that compounds the issue. There have been a couple good header review/comparison threads here, I'm sure you read those?

I think the SS header from Vic is an excellent basis to make a custom 4:2:1 unit from. Then it can be rerouted from under the crossmember as well.
 
I'll admit I really want the Allison setup w/ short header and quad tip exhaust. It's quite a bit more money but looks like less overall hassle and everything should fit like it should. I just finished completely renovating my a/c, so I'm not too keen on moving any lines.
 
Admittedly, the under the frame headers are a pain with lowered cars. I have some flat boards I have to drive up on for the rear wheels in order to get my floor jack far enough in to get under the rear center jack point without the jack hitting the exhaust. The things we do for style...……...
 
I’m also looking at the stainless header from viks. So far any part I’ve ordered from viks (aluminum rad and fans, thermostat, water pump) have fit very nicely. I’d also like to delete the cat and go with a performance muffler. JDExSquid, what were your plans? I have a non A/C car. I love the sound of flowmasters. I have a super 44 on my 03 Dodge Ram 1500 4.7 and it sounds great.
 
Jim,

Are you a gambler? You could order the Vicks header and see what issues you might have. If it works out, you saved money over the Allison system. If not, you sell it off and move on. You will lose a little money, but gain knowledge, which you can then share with us for free. :D

Just curious. You said you read a bunch of the previous related posts. Did you find a post from anyone that had put the Vicks header in an AC car?
 
JimD said:
Jim,

Are you a gambler? You could order the Vicks header and see what issues you might have. If it works out, you saved money over the Allison system. If not, you sell it off and move on. You will lose a little money, but gain knowledge, which you can then share with us for free. :D

Just curious. You said you read a bunch of the previous related posts. Did you find a post from anyone that had put the Vicks header in an AC car?
Click to expand...
No posts about a/c; that's why I figured I'd start a thread. From what I understand, the old Vicks header was steel, not stainless. It also wasn't ceramic coated so longevity would be iffy. Their new one is on sale for $299, so the price is really good!

Here's the story of why I'm contemplating upgrading the exhaust. My original muffler had some rot and I had another muffler in very good shape in the barn.....with the mice....and I installed it on the car. Fired it up and it became a cotton ball canon, firing fluffy balls out on every rev. Funniest @#% thing you've ever seen! Apparently mice don't use an outhouse or indoor plumbing, so when the muffler heated up and started cooking the mice urine....omg. The smell eventually burnt off. I have noticed a persistent smell, kind of like gear lube, that emanates from the engine bay after a drive. I haven't been able to localize the smell. It's not the brakes; I rebuilt them. I don't think it's the tranny. I checked the level and am running redline. Maybe something leaked onto the exhaust at some point, maybe when I had the car painted. I don't like the look of the exhaust anyway. No leaks, but it sure is showing its age. Plus wifey has smelled it and is receptive to throwing parts at it to fix it (I really love her).
 
I installed a Vick’s Header about 2 years ago with stock Muffler. I know it takes a little imagination and 8 can’t recall if it needs to be installed from the top or bottom but it can be done without removing anything.
 
The Vicks header is installed from the bottom. It's best to jack the car up as high as you can.
It does run below the crossmember but it is right next to the jacking bracket and does not hang below that. So it really doesn't decrease your ground clearance.

A very oversimplified statement regarding performance of a header: the longer the runners the better. So I really like the Vicks header. All others really are too short IMHO.
 
I installed a CSC header a while back, I believe it is about the same price. I love the performance, sound and how it fits. However, the flanges needed to have someone shave some washers to get it to fit properly and the muffler, which has a built in catalytic converter, has been a nightmare...
 
Get a Euro 4:2:1 manifold and any dual outlet down pipe, then have any cat, muffler or piping you wish, installed. Custom is the only way to go, imo.
 
When I did my exhaust, I went under the frame as well but have it tucked up enough to be above the cross member jacking point. With fresh engine mounts I think I am in the clear impact or vibration issues. We will see when a load is actually applied to the engine.
The exhaust uses the 4-2 header and a custom pie cut 2-1 down pipe and 90 deg bend to the stock muffler.
 
images for above post: I also need to see if I will have heat issues due to proximity to the painted rail. That can always be rememdied with high temp paint and a shield maybe.
IMG-5246.JPG
IMG-5247.JPG
 
Andrew, that came out nice. I remember the discussions when you were building it but don't recall seeing the final product. Well done. It illustrates a few points for others to consider when building the muffler section for any manifold/header. Some sort of flex joint in the system is a good idea. V-band clamps are an excellent method of joining sections that you can remove later. Stainless steel is excellent for exhaust systems. Clean smooth flowing lines at bends and joints helps improve flow.

I love that exhaust systems have become such a debated issue on Xweb. Almost as good as the old questions of; what lube to use in the trans, or what's the best spark plug, or motor oil/oil filter. Great stuff!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top