Volvo 745 Pickup + 4.8l V8 conversion

lookforjoe

True Classic
Back to the driveshaft - I found that I hadn't pressed the bearing into the carrier all the way - so it ran cockeyed - caused the forward deflector to come off the shaft, made a horrible rattle

The URO carrier is the only one I can find, but it's a pita to work with - there are dimples in the inner lip that prevent the bearing from seating evenly.

I bought I new carrier (RockAuto) & a 183265 bearing off FCP, so I'd be ready to swap the other one out

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after pressing in the bearing, I checked this one to ensure the depth was uniform all around

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NOTE - 15mm thin wall impact socket stubby wobble extension , 17mm open end wrench to remove flange bolts.

I decided to remove the carrier, and if it came off without damage to the bearing, I'd press it further on & let it be

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pressed off using a splitter on the back side, didn't damage the bearing

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visible gap on one side

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I pressed the bearing further into the carrier to level it, after shaving off the dimples that were in the way

reassembled & it's back in the car. Aligned the carrier once the shaft was installed, before finally tightening the mount plate. Feels OK, no vibration. I'll see how it is in a 1000 miles. Worst case, I'll drop the shaft & swap it out.

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in other news, I cleaned up (acid dip) the flywheel in readiness for the LH2.4 conversion has an arrow marking (?) EDIT - TDC is 90º after the long tooth, so that arrow would seem to align with TDC

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lookforjoe

True Classic
Changed the rear axle bearings and seals yesterday. Bearings looked clean for 220K - but there was a couple mm end float.

inner seal
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problem with one of the new seals - some vendors supersede to the National 1176, which absolutely won't work

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old race

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old bearing - this side the inner seal was on the way out - there is evidence of gear oil coming into the bearing here

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cut off the lock ring & bearing

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cleaned up the axle for install of new seals & bearings

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bearing being pressed on

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lock ring being pressed on

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I also removed the rear diff cover to replace the leaky gasket (238523), and I hoped to replace the speed sensor with a spare I had. Problem was the sender type was different - pickup style is not the same at all. I subsequently found that the rotted out one I have is superseded by the later spare. Anyway, I'll have to destroy the one I have just to get it out, so I'll wait on that. I just got rid of the butt splices in the harness for it

rusty fuel sender will be on the list
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refilled diff with 1.75l of Volvo gear oil (1161329)

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lookforjoe

True Classic
Had to swap out the rear shocks (again) - I had bought Bilstein B4's last April, those lasted until Dec before they were knocking under light load over uneven roadway. RockAuto warrantied that pair, and the replacements last until a couple weeks ago , then they also started knocking under the same conditions. They have a limited lifetime warranty, however RockAuto did not want to send me another pair, they offered to refund the purchase price, and I could buy an alternative. The only alternative worth using is the Bilstein B6 (twice the price, the reason I didn't start with them). With those in the knock is gone, hopefully these last more than 6 months....

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kmead

Glutton for punishment
Had to swap out the rear shocks (again) - I had bought Bilstein B4's last April, those lasted until Dec before they were knocking under light load over uneven roadway. RockAuto warrantied that pair, and the replacements last until a couple weeks ago , then they also started knocking under the same conditions. They have a limited lifetime warranty, however RockAuto did not want to send me another pair, they offered to refund the purchase price, and I could buy an alternative. The only alternative worth using is the Bilstein B6 (twice the price, the reason I didn't start with them). With those in the knock is gone, hopefully these last more than 6 months....

View attachment 64062
One wonders if they were real or counterfeit parts. There is a lot of that out there unfortunately.
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
Back on the pickup today. The fuel pump has been making funky noises when cold, so I decided better deal with it now before the weather gets unruly, since it will have to be apart for some days.

sender lines all came off without breaking (!)
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rotate CCW to remove from aperture
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soaked the sender cap in muriatic acid for a short while after descaling the rust surface
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coated with POR tank sealer. Have to leave it for a few days to harden
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as a backup, I cut up a NOS sender intended for 85-87 740, so I can transfer the guts of my 91 sender over if needed
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different pump output, as this sender only had a low pressure feeder pump. I modded the fitting to a ford type quick release. I didn't confirm the sender cap will fit around this, since it now protrudes beyond the lip.
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lookforjoe

True Classic
Transferred the new AEM 340lph (50-1200) pump to the sender after work. Had to mod the receiver cup as the AEM is slightly larger OD, and wire the AEM connector in place

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all connections in the sender are soldered, so I crimped the connections & then did the same
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back in the tank, getting the seal in place was a bitch, and the sender presses against the base of the tank, so took some persuasion, I guess the plastic tank bowed with it out.

Note to self - I just realized looking at this pic, I forgot to tighten the clamp on the filler hose, other clamps are all replaced with squeeze type

EDIT - fixed the loose clamp situation
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lookforjoe

True Classic
Started on brackets to support the forward hinged panel that has to be lifted to open the mid-gate. Since the overall fit seems good, I will add vertical braces to prevent downward flex under load

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Also an acquaintance found a truck be liner for me, and delivered it :) I see if I can't shape it to fit my bed/arches

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lookforjoe

True Classic
Got another door pull, so I added one to the driver's door. Volvo never supplied one for the driver, so I had to drill mount holes for the hardware

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support screw is longer, and NLA, so I took a pair of stock length ones and cut & welded to make one (no pic)
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installed
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lookforjoe

True Classic
Reworking the tank sender, the return elbow cracked on the old one

drilling out one fitting to 10mm for the higher load wiring , shaved down the other two to clear the fitting
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locking tab
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converted feed line to quick connect 6.3mm
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removing the pulse damper from the pump feed, so adding one from a 98 Volvo M4.4 system, added the port to the end of the fuel rail
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shaved the tip 2mm so the LH2.4 clip would work
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I'll swap out the rail I previously modded
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lookforjoe

True Classic
Fitted the level sender & pump to the 'new' sending unit, soldered pump & sender wires

made sure the pump was properly isolated - I had annoying pulse noise with the way I had it previously.
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made sure alignment of sender tube was correct
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Had to put a strap around base of the sender outer sleeve, it had expanded & the sender wasn't sliding evenly in the guide
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installed the sender, wired the new harness
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I had to make a right angle adaptor for the quick connect, the straight one wasn't going to work
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Only problem I found out was that the hard line ruptured when I fitted the quick connect - sprayed gas all over the top of the tank, so I had to make a new line to the filter. Since I was going to replace it, I decided to remove the need for the adaptor, and the adaptor lines with flare fittings needed to go from the steel line to the sender & to the filter. Switching to 8mm ID nitrile line with quick-connects, and the filter (Mann WK-822) from an 850/x70 that utilizes quick-connect fittings, I also use this filter on the Dallara. Old lines were 6mm ID.

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routed line with epdm sleeve added from sender to filter
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Just noticed the rearward filler hose clamp is MIA
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Old filter setup had flare fitting inlet & right-angle banjo union outlet (filter clamp not secured in this pic) . No leaks & nice & quiet now.
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lookforjoe

True Classic
Pics of the Volvos

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All the juggling was due to working on another C30 M66 today... royal PITA to get to the water pump, t/belt, etc..

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lookforjoe

True Classic
Installed the revised rail yesterday, and with that the pulse noise is gone, and the regulated pressure no longer bounces - so perhaps the old damper wasn't actually functional anymore

I had guesstimated the damper port angle off the rail centerline to clear the pressure gauge - it barely clears by a few thousandths
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lookforjoe

True Classic
Revising the throttle setup - to use the larger 3" 960 throttle body

Reference 960TB install thread

modded TB to include the 2 EVAP vac sources (1/8" NPT)

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modded stand offs for TPS M4x.7 (more on this later)

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shave standpoffs so TPS shaft seal contacts center bearing surround

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various TB shafts - trying to find one with the correct shaft key for the LH TPS - flipping the shaft doesn't work for LH2.4 TPS, as idle switch operates at 90º to the housing plane

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modded the stock TPS bracket to set TPS @ 90º to the TB plane

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gaskets required 9135990 + 1271488

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So, the problem is that the TB is set rotated 90º on the YoshiFab (T'bricker) adaptor, so no way to connect the stock linkage. It appears that the throttle cable is supposed to attach directly on the adaptor, however that would require a modded lever, and won't work with my auto/cruise setup, unless I'm completely misreading this

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stock bobbin / linkage for reference

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So, as a reversal of my usual process - I'm going to use the FIAT TB lever /spool to address the axis change. I'll use a butterfly shaft as the pivot - it is a snug fit in a FIAT valve guide, so I"ll weld that to a bracket that mounts to the 2 available standoffs

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lookforjoe

True Classic
… In a reversal of my usual process…

Now that was funny
🤪

OK - this seems to be working out - I thought I might have to also make a new cable for the setup, but as it's going I think it's all going to align nicely. Next I have to mod the backside of the Fiat lever to add a ball stud that will align with the stock bobbin.

had to drill & tap (M8x1.25) the spare manifold for the mockup

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valve guide welded to an upright, upright welded to a tie plate that spans the two mount points above
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Cable angle in the lever is good across the range.
Closed
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part throttle
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WOT
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I will likely have to revise the vacuum attachment seen in the this pic - at wide throttle the lever arcs cross the path the hose needs to take
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photoshop overlay

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lookforjoe

True Classic
used a sleeve over the guide, and welded a lever to that

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then welded that to the Fiat lever back piece

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removed the cable standoff & cleaned up the adaptor flange, welded studs for mounting the TB

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Lever & link rod operation throughout travel range is good

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but... at full bobbin lift, the plate is about 75-80º, not 90º. Stock TB lever here:
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so I made a longer lever at the TB, which drops the lever at the pivot, which hopefully gives me more pull at the bobbin. Didn't check it before I had to put the bobbin back on the pickup, rain coming in. Maybe I have it backwards & the TB lever needs to be shorter, not longer. I'll find out soon enough. EDIT: pretty sure I have it backwards, sketching this out, a shorter lever on the TB would give more travel of the butterfly over the same degree of travel at the added pivot - I think :rolleyes:
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cable angle with longer lever at TB

Closed
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45º
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WOT
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lookforjoe

True Classic
Need input from someone with better math skills than I - I can't wrap my head around the leverage mods I need to get proper travel at the butterfly.

I shortened the lever on the TB, so the pivot pulls it more open than with the stock lever. But.... the travel at the bobbin does not pull the pivot enough to open the butterfly more than about 45º, so about halfway.

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I'm assuming I need to also shorten the lever on the pivot, so the bobbin action will pull the TB lever further open. I'm also assuming that rotating the lever around the pivot will do nothing except increase the required rod length, or would it increase leverage? Does that make sense?
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