Volvo 745 Pickup + 4.8l V8 conversion

lookforjoe

True Classic
more bits & bobs

Lokar oil dipstick
- need to figure out if the Volvo gauge temp sender will fit in the head port behind the manifold
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Used a modified step coupler to mount the MAF
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just don't know if it's orientation is critical - the housing has a notch in it, which suggests it is intended to be mounted in a specific position
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rad hose (Gates 23766) is one used by another T/Bricker V8 swap, steam hose will route adjacent to the bung beneath the rad inlet
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mount brackets in place - left side is slightly longer than right side, drivetrain is slightly offset to the right, as apparently is the factory drivetrain
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lookforjoe

True Classic
center cap decals came, so I bonded those to the 65mm Advanti cap
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swivel elbow AN/NPT Fittings came

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so the plan would be to run the hoses along the frame rail to the firewall, away from the engine
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I have a range of AN fittings I bought/collected to play with the offset exiting the water pump as needed
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This a reference pic of another V8 swap layout - much useful info, however I don't want it to look like this
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alternator mount bracket came -
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I bought longer bolts - 140mm - the provided 120mm bolts only go around 1/2" into the block
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lookforjoe

True Classic
Love those wheels!!!

Indeed 😁 - they are the same brand/design as the black ones I've had on my C30 for the past 7 years - the wheels are strong - they have survived all the NY potholes better than any of the factory wheels I have owned.

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lookforjoe

True Classic
Test fitting the EMS harness today

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used a C30 hose guide to route the steam vent tube & MAF harness
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MAF connector needs to be modified, needs a notch as marked
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Another C30 HVAC bracket on the backside, to locate & isolate the harness sections from the intake
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harness is missing the OP sensor connector
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transmission connections & routing - using the plastic X1/9 engine bay harness clamps, and Volvo metal harness clamps. I'm going to sheath the harness where it passes behind the manifold
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Using an adaptor 16mm to 6AN for the power steering pump, then an -6AN 90º. I'll either mod or make a pressure line to the rack from here
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Should have enough AC #8 & #10 fittings (90º, 45º & straight) to make the AC lines to the compressor.
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Ideas for heater hose & valve layout
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lookforjoe

True Classic
routing wiring, heat sheathing for crank sensor, starter feed & cooler lines
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trans cooler line revision - banjo/6AN fittings to bring the lines in closer
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drilled & tapped an existing port for the Volvo coolant temp sender - I messed this up initially by tapping to 3/*" NPT,
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and had to put a sleeve in it, and then tap that to M16x1.5 for the sender
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notched the MAF connector to fit the MAF
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lookforjoe

True Classic
Small things. Made a M16 - M14 x1.5 adaptor for the oil pressure sender.

Base was a trans cooler fitting from a Volvo radiator, M14 nut braised to the base

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One uneventful mod at least
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plugging in the new trans harness seems to have revealed another issue - the socket is not properly attached to the casing anymore - the plug filled up with fluid. Apparently there is a repair solution that presses the connector back up against the underside of the casing to seal the ring again
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modded a 740 plug wire heat shield for the coolant sender - I have my doubts that it will survive in proximity to the manifold without it
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repair wire 3523813 for Volvo senders
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pulled apart the GM harness to retrieve several wire sets I need - AC compressor, starter trigger & O2 sensors for now

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another sender close to the AC compressor plug - I don't know where this came from - looks like the oil pressure sender, but wrong location for that
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Need to run a ground cable from the block to the battery - original was wired for battery on left in bay - it's on the right in mine, so changes will be necessary. I may still need to route the negative cable under the crank, there is no open ground spot on the right side of the block. I need to run. the alternator battery cable as well
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played with the cooler lines a little more - now using a 45º on one to get it to tuck closer in to the casing. Also ground down the edge of a casting bump to allow slightly closer lay
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lookforjoe

True Classic
WIRING: Removed some more Delphi connectors - at this point, I want to cut the loom & have a more modular setup - the idea of unplugging every individual sensor & component, feeding the harness from the pass compartment to the bay isn't going to work for me. I want it like the Fiat, where if need be, I can unplug the harness from the bulkhead & leave it all attached for engine removal.

84 wires to cut & reattach here. 6 or so at the right front, Battery & alternator cables. 2 for eFan control & others I've likely forgotten.

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connectors will be somewhat staggered, I think 2' off the back the motor will be an OK starting point. There's way too much overall length, so I can get rid of some of the trunk while I'm at it
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Much duplication of wire colors - so I'll use the PCM diagrams to cross reference with the standalone harness wiring legend to batch the wires in to identifiable groupings - 2 16pole, 3 14pole, an 8pole, 4pole for the Volvo sensors, and a higher amp 4 pole for the main grounds & starter circuit. I'll need a separate 4-6pole for the AC, & whatever else exits at the front.

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I have plenty of sealed connector housing, but 12pole is the largest I've used in the past
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So, I'm going to get more of the 14 & 16 pole Delphi GT150/280 series connectors & terminals used for this gen GM product

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lookforjoe

True Classic
Broke down & bought lift hooks - would have cost me more to make my own

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made the ground cable & alt feed wire - run under the crank using the stock engine harness bracket
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banjo - to AN6 fittings for the power steering rack. Hopefully there is room around the subframe to make this work
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EDIT - based on this pic from jagsthatrun.com, I will likely have to cut the factory lines & weld -6 AN male fittings to the lines

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lookforjoe

True Classic
Cut the harness today. Need to make a start on the bulkhead connections. I'll have to meter out the connections, from here to each device, since many use the same color wires. Once I've mapped them out, I'll group them accordingly.

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Added the Furukawa .250 series terminals for the (30) power from the starter to the EMS. Can handle 35a each.
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integrated the 3 wires for the 2 Volvo sensors
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have to figure out if I need to integrate the GM neutral safety
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Cut the harness today. Need to make a start on the bulkhead connections. I'll have to meter out the connections, from here to each device, since many use the same color wires. Once I've mapped them out, I'll group them accordingly.



Added the terminals for the (30) power from the starter to the EMS




integrated the 3 wires for the 2 Volvo sensors




have to figure out if I need to integrate the GM neutral safety
View attachment 68696

I guess GM does not put the neutral safety switch on the steering column any more. Those were notorious for going intermitent after a few years and you would have to jiggle the gear selector to engage the starter motor.
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
Wiring, wiring. I must be a glutton for punishment

Identified all wires in the loom
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I made a spreadsheet this time, to keep track, using the supplied wiring colors which differ from the factory harness schematics
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separated into end user groups
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crimping new Delphi gt150 & 280 series terminals & adding to housings
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using a Volvo terminal bin for all the Delphi terminals I bought
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body side connectors done. I'll leave all the cable ID until I have the drivetrain side terminated, to verify. I know I get dyslexic.
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lookforjoe

True Classic
Been sick with an inner ear infection since last Sunday, finally feeling well enough to get some work done.

Finished up the harness connectors. Rewired the O2 sensors to male, like the original
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Converted the injector plugs to EV1. Didn't like the Delphi-to-EV1 adaptors
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bridge connections for motor / bulkhead done
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lookforjoe

True Classic
My son had sent me several trays of Volvo terminals, the dealer he works at was discarding them (!)
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Since I'm still under the weather with this inner ear infection, I took the time today to dump them out, organize & add my stock to them
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lookforjoe

True Classic
HVAC blower motor stopped working on 3 out of 5 speeds today - jiggling the wires at the resistor pack I could get the fan to run at every speed, so I cut all the terminals off & made use of the ones I received from my son :)

contacts in the resistor pack are a little crusty, but all test OK
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I do have a new one stashed, but no need for it yet
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harness terminals not so much - half of them were the old non-reinforced variety also - not good for load circuits
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lookforjoe

True Classic
Figuring out ways to use Volvo heater hose quick connect fittings - Dorman 800-416 5/8" elbows work. I can use these to avoid large loops around the back of the motor, along the firewall into the inner fender arera

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My T5R uses those fittings for the heater. When I replaced my radiator (metal/plastic seam failure), I decided to replace all the hoses including the heater hoses. I got the Volvo connectors from FCP. I did not see the Dorman products back then (~2000).
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
My T5R uses those fittings for the heater. When I replaced my radiator (metal/plastic seam failure), I decided to replace all the hoses including the heater hoses. I got the Volvo connectors from FCP. I did not see the Dorman products back then (~2000).

The brass part is part of the Volvo hose - the receiver (Dorman) would equate to the bulkhead fitting - those were used from 93-00 on the 850 & then the x70 (since those 2 years were essentially a facelift 850)

What I'd ideally like to do is solder the brass male fitting to the heater core ports, and use the elbows right off the bulkhead it's going to be pretty tight back there

this is an example from another LS V8 740

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