Volvo C30 AWD Conversion

[lookforjoe]

Long day today. Finally got around to installing the rear diff I installed the Quaife QDF11J LSD in a year and a half ago

Not many pics, I already documented the R&R of the rear. Basically, remove rear shocks, unbolt brake calipers & suspend from shock mount plate. Disconnect ABS sensors & Haldex harness. Disconnect rear CV at Diff. Remove trailing arm forward bolts (4), remove subframe bolts (6). Slightly lower entire rear, then disconnect EVAP tubes (3) and unbolt leak detection pump from subframe. Drop rear.

essential tool for removing rear axles from diff

transfer Haldex module (DEM) from old diff to modded diff

Fill AOC with .7 liter of Volvo-branded oil. Put diff back into subframe, install left axle into diff, push diff to left side, install right axle into diff. I did NOT want to deal with removing the hubs or separating the control arms to pivot the hub out. Replaced the left axle (used part) while I had it apart - I had repaired the inner boot on the original, and that had started spraying CV grease this past spring.

Tipped the entire assembly over to the passenger side & filled the diff, also Volvo fluid, .7L

While I had the rear down, I rewired the extra 2 wires (Y, WH) I had added for the VW DEM into the Volvo harness

Going back together - had the Mrs push the rear subframe forward under the car whilst I aligned the pinion with the rear CV

After that, it was all pretty much cut & dry, just several hours labor to put everything back together

Almost forgot - I did install a new version CEIKA rear brake setup, this one has a mechanical parking brake, vs. the old hydraulic version that wouldn't maintain eBrake function over time. This version is MUCH cleaner design & pretty easy to set up - if only they provided proper directions, it wouldn't be so frustrating dealing with them

These are the directions given for adjusting the caliper mechanism (step 11):

Yeah, NOT HELPFUL

I figured out they were referring to this grub screw - you can see an adjuster wheel inside (I had to remove the caliper to do this, as one cannot see inside the hole with the caliper installed)

so, knowing now that there is an adjuster wheel, I tried rotating it CW, and then CCW to figure out which direction resulted in proper tensioning of the mechanism. I sent them these pics, hopefully they will include them (or their own) in future directions that make sense.

 

[lookforjoe]

Found out what was making the ghastly noises underneath when I went to Newark Airport to drop off my son, and again when I went back to pick up my Niece about a week later. I don't know how or what I hit with it, but I bent the crap out of the support plate & the exhaust was hitting it over every bump

I was able to remove & reform the plate to pretty much original spec. Happy I didn't rip out the O2 sensor. I tried ordering a new plate, and Volvo has no stock here or in the Motherland.

 

[kmead]

Wasn’t someone else doing test driving for you? Oops wrong Volvo

 

[lookforjoe]

Found I had a leak from my AWD - don't know when it started, probably during the Canada trip I suppose. Fortunately it was just the AWD filter cap & nothing more serious. PITA to get to with the driveshaft flange in place, but possible. Filter was replaced when I did the rear overhaul for the Quaife posi, but.. I didn't use a Volvo part. Seal was rolled/pinched. Not same quality as OEM. There is a chamfer in the housing it is pulled into, and I know I lubed & tighter evenly to make sure it was drawn in properly at the time (summer 2021)

modded 4mm keys to access the screws

no more leaks

only took about .15L to refill it to the fill plug

 

[lookforjoe]

Polished the lenses on the headlamps I had converted to Xenon some years ago & put them back on - now I'm driving to work in the dark every day, I need some better lighting to combat all the newer LED-equipped cars that blind me on the way to work

stock

Xenon projector version

 

[lookforjoe]

Got the new tires 225/40x18 Bridgestone Turanza & Advanti Hybris 18x8" wheels (along with new TPMS) mounted & balanced after work today - had to get some help, I couldn't recall the specifics of the equipment I had to use - I do this so rarely, in the scheme of things. I'll need to do the new X1/9 set shortly, or I'll forget all over again

Aftermarket 65mm Volvo centers

 

[lookforjoe]

Had to rework the forward driveshaft carrier bridge plate. The original AWD version is very flimsy - its' already been damaged a couple times - last one was by deer parts. Volvo doesn't sell it anymore - it's not even in the catalog. At one time I found the part number & tried to order it, ended up on 1 year backorder before I cancelled it.

So, I modded the original C30 FWD cross brace, adding tabs to support the forward ears. This sits tighter to the crossmember (and exhaust)

 

[lookforjoe]

Did the front struts today - 140K miles, & they started knocking over slight bumps

one strut bearing came apart, I dislodged the casing when removing the spring - had to recover all the bearings. I had replaced the (Volvo) mount 40K miles ago when I put the Eibach spring set in, so not about to replace it again.

 

[lookforjoe]

Notes: Knocking was not only the struts. Spent about 2 hours going back & forth with several items:
1) I had to "adjust" (notch & weld) the AWD cross brace to prevent the downpipe from tapping it under accel/load. Evidence of contact rub/mark on the cross brace directly under the lowest point of the pipe.
2) Intercooler cold side pipe bracket (M7 retaining bolt) was slightly loose, evidence of movement (rust particles) under the bolt head at the support flange. Allowed piping to rub against the skid plate.
3) Pass side sway bar link had a weak balljoint (no discernible play) - finally all knocking went away after replacing that one (did D/S first, no change with that)

 

[kmead]

Notes: Knocking was not only the struts. Spent about 2 hours going back & forth with several items:
1) I had to "adjust" (notch & weld) the AWD cross brace to prevent the downpipe from tapping it under accel/load. Evidence of contact rub/mark on the cross brace directly under the lowest point of the pipe.
2) Intercooler cold side pipe bracket (M7 retaining bolt) was slightly loose, evidence of movement (rust particles) under the bolt head at the support flange. Allowed piping to rub against the skid plate.
3) Pass side sway bar link had a weak balljoint (no discernible play) - finally all knocking went away after replacing that one (did D/S first, no change with that)

I have come to hate sway bar links on all my cars that have them.

 

[lookforjoe]

I have come to hate sway bar links on all my cars that have them.

The old fashioned rods with bushings may not have had the range of motion, but they never knocked...

 

[lookforjoe]

Summary Slideshow