Water Pump comparison: MWB vs. eBay vs. Stock

JNewm

True Classic
Hi all--

I recently replaced a failed water pump on my '81 (non-AC) X. Curious about the various offerings, I decided to order a couple of different replacement pumps to see how they stack up. These were the Beck Arnley pump + housing (from eBay) and the pump only from MWB. Some side-by-side photos, along w/ photos of the stock unit, are below.

I'd be curious to hear y'all's thoughts. My initial reactions:

(1) The Beck Arnley unit's design is much closer to stock than the MWB unit. In particular, the impeller on the Beck Arnley is basically exactly like the stock impeller. They're very thick and chunky, more like a "screw"-type impeller than a "blade"-type. As you can see, the MWB impeller is quite a bit different. It has thin blades oriented perpendicular to the water flow. I did not flow-test them (no idea how to do that and wouldn't have the equipment anyway!), but my intuition is that the blade-type MWB unit would create a lot more cavitation. It looks like it would thrash a lot more water around, but with less directional force.

(2) The Beck Arnley unit shipped at close-to-spec clearance. It was about 1.5 mm between the impeller and housing as shipped. I replaced the gasket with a thinner paper one, and that got it down to the wide end of spec (~1.3 mm). As an aside, it was really tricky to measure. I used a piece of paper w/ a 1.5mm mark folded at a right angle. I'm sure there's a better way. At any rate, 1.3mm was basically the same as the clearance on the (failed) stock-unit, which cooled the car just fine for ~40 years. So I felt pretty good about installing it at the wide end of the clearance.

(3) The MWB unit is way off in terms of clearance. There's a much bigger gap between impeller and housing. But as you can see, the impeller is also much smaller diameter. So it's hard to measure actual clearance, given that the actual clearance is more between the impeller and the cone/funnel that leads to the inlet tube... Rather than between the impeller and the flat housing wall/lip.

Anyway, without further ado, the pics:

Here's a side-by-side of the Beck Arnley unit (on the left) and the MWB pump mated to the stock housing.
MWB pump and stock housing vs BA.jpg

You can really see the clearance difference.

Here's a close-up of the MWB unit mated to the stock housing. Note the impeller design and diameter.
close-up BA clearance.jpg


And here's a close-up of the Beck Arnley unit.
Close-up Beck Arnley clearance.jpg


Here's the (failed) stock pump, on the right obviously. On the left is the BA unit. Note that the impeller design is much more similar. Both are screw-type.
Stock pump vs Beck Arnley.jpg


Just b/c I was proud of how nice everything looked, here's the BA unit w/ reconditioned tube. Sanded down, rust-converter, high-temp exhaust paint.
Assembled-restored BA and tube.jpg


And here's something NOT to try. As I was about to reinstall everything, I thought to myself, "This is an insane design. This inlet tube passes right by the exhaust manifold! It's like one of those inline water heaters people install in RVs to take hot showers!! Think how much better the whole system will cool if it's insulated!"

Unfortunately, there is basically ZERO clearance between this tube and the exhaust downpipe. This header wrap (double-wrapped) was enough to prevent proper mounting of the pump. So I had to take everything back off, remove the wrap, then install. If you wanted to get fancy, you could wrap it so that it just has a small gap for the pipe, but that would defeat at least some of the purpose--you'd be leaving the hottest area exposed. I consoled myself with the fact that the water only passes through this screaming hot little tube for a fraction of a second.
Header-wrapped tube.jpg


Moral of that story: don't try to outsmart Lampredi.

At any rate, hope this is interesting/useful to others down the road!
 
The one with the cast impeller can have its impeller-to-housing clearances adjusted by means of pullers or judiciously applied hammer hits.

From the pic you posted, I don't see how one could make similar adjustments to the one with the stamped impeller, but I will leave open the possibility that other picture angles of the pump could reveal a way to accomplish this.

It is notable that the stamped impeller does not seem to have a wide enough diameter to match the machined area of the housing--it seems alarmingly small in fact! On the face of it, this would appear to be a significant shortcoming of the stamped impeller pump, but I am no fluid dynamics expert so other aspects of the stamped design might make up for that purported shortcoming. Flow tests comparing the two designs would of course settle the issue but a bunch of guys on a FIAT forum are probably not gonna get that done :).
 
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The impeller design differs so much that I don‘t dare pass judgement.
The dinky stamped impeller has much more volume between the blades.
Who knows, maybe that makes it more efficient at slow rotational speeds such as at idle?
We need some tests or a real pump design engineer.
 
Could be apples and oranges in the sohc world, but I recall the GMB branded water pump for the dohc engines was most desired on the fiat forums. It was the one with a stamped impeller and was frequently recommended to replace the cast impeller version.
 
Looks like the bearing on the BA unit is much smaller.
I insulated the inlet tube by wrapping it with a thin aluminum sheet. A one inch section of old hose on either end, wrapped with the aluminum, secured with hose clamps. I don't know if it makes any difference, but it doesn't seem to hurt?
 
Could be apples and oranges in the sohc world, but I recall the GMB branded water pump for the dohc engines was most desired on the fiat forums. It was the one with a stamped impeller and was frequently recommended to replace the cast impeller version.

I just took her out for a maiden voyage; everything seemed to be working well. Is there anything better than the feeling of driving a car after it's been sitting disabled for a week?

I'll hold onto that stamped version for the next time I need to replace the pump. Thankfully, at the rate they've been failing on me--once every 39 years--that shouldn't be until about the year 2059... 😁
 
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I'm kind of going thru all this selecting a pump for the lemons racer, and had good friend over the other day, his speciality is pumping water (he was my boss for a few years on a minesite and taught me a lot about the subject)

I showed him a selection of SOHC pumps, non AC and AC types, whch included genuine in the box Fiat replacement parts

His pick of the bunch (which was my choice as well I just liked the confirmation) was the GMB pump.

His reasons.

the first thing he noticed was the mechanical seal on the GMB, All other pumps used a different (much less robust and effective) seal type

second thing was the beaing size. GMB bering is as big as the OEM bearing, several of the aftermarket pumps used a smaller bearig, and his thoughts were for an endurance racer the bearing size is critical for longevity.

Third was the shaft... the GMB uses a stainless steel shaft, the others plated / hardened steel.

and then he came to impellor design, and the first thing he looked at was the rear of the impellors. all others had the impellor casting fit over the shaft and the rear of the impellor was mostly flat. (except on the OE Fiat) The GMB and Fiat impellors are recesed at the rear and in the GMB the shaft at the rear of the pump is fully exposed. My friend says this makes a big difference to the pumps efficiency with the scooped out design assisting the movement of water in the direction wanted, and the reduced diameter (hsaft only) behind the impellor gives more room for water movement

Next he looked at the front of the impellor. to him again the GMB wins out as the inlet side on the impellor has a more efficient shape allowing for more water flow. Next to the vanes, and to him the GMB pressed impellor (given everything has the same clearance to the pump body) would move the most water due to the largest volume contained between the vanes.

Mathematically a centrifugal pumps efficiency is descrbed by the impellor dimensions, (mostly diameter) as the mathematical relationship between the width (cross sectional area) of the impellor entry to its exit width (cross sectional area) determines the speed increase in the water flow., and the GMB has the largest measured difference in % size

The pressure increase a pump is capable of is determined by the volute coross sectional change and the output cross section sizing... in the sohc the volute is the pump body / housing ... now this is where there are a few subtle differences between non AC pump body and a pump body, but thats another discussion... here we are talking about pumps...now a cooling system in a car does not need to pump any "head" or height and make pressure, it smply needs to move volume and as far as the ability to move water to me the GMB is the pick of the bunch for my lemons build, my engineer buddy agrees, in fact we have settled on driving the pump at only 0.5 drive ratio, compared to the 0.86 drive ratio original, as the pump will move more water than needed at revs.

SteveC
 
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Next he looked at the front of the impellor. to him again the GMB wins out as the inlet side on the impellor has a more efficient shape allowing for more water flow. Next to the vanes, and to him the GMB pressed impellor (given everything has the same clearance to the pump body) would move the most water due to the largest volume contained between the vanes.

This is all awesome info!!! My next question would be, "Is the GMB pump adjustable in/out to get the same clearance?" I assume so--it would be weird to design a pump that is not adjustable. What's the process for doing so?
 
On my car is a MasterPro (O'Reilly store brand, no idea who actually made it, but it is made in Italy) water pump with a stamped steel impeller. Adjustment is the same as with the cast impeller; press the impeller further onto the shaft to increase clearance, pull the impeller the other way to decrease clearance.
 
This is all awesome info!!! My next question would be, "Is the GMB pump adjustable in/out to get the same clearance?" I assume so--it would be weird to design a pump that is not adjustable. What's the process for doing so?

Bjorn described the method - they are not technically adjustable - it's just that with production variances one may need to (carefully) press / pull the impeller on the shaft to increase/decrease the gap
 
In the process of freshening up a new to me motor and I'm replacing the water pump while I do the timing belt and such. When I pulled the old pump off, it actually seemed pretty good. Turns smooth and virtually no shaft play. Then I compared it to the new one I ordered (incidentally it's a GMB pump like the one Hussein linked to - from Rock Auto cause I'm kind of cheap and it's about 1/2 the price of the MWB one). Looking at the two side by side I had the same concern as JNewm, the original impeller design just looks like it should work better than the stamped steel one.
UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_mini_a2fd.jpg

But, if I'm following all of this, Steve's pump specialist friend actually feels that the GMB stamped steel impeller design would be the better choice? I was considering putting the old pump back in since it seems to be in good condition. Now I'm not sure what to do. What would you all do?

Ryan
 
In the process of freshening up a new to me motor and I'm replacing the water pump while I do the timing belt and such. When I pulled the old pump off, it actually seemed pretty good. Turns smooth and virtually no shaft play. Then I compared it to the new one I ordered (incidentally it's a GMB pump like the one Hussein linked to - from Rock Auto cause I'm kind of cheap and it's about 1/2 the price of the MWB one). Looking at the two side by side I had the same concern as JNewm, the original impeller design just looks like it should work better than the stamped steel one.
View attachment 41077
But, if I'm following all of this, Steve's pump specialist friend actually feels that the GMB stamped steel impeller design would be the better choice? I was considering putting the old pump back in since it seems to be in good condition. Now I'm not sure what to do. What would you all do?

Ryan
I had the same observations and reservations about swapping out my old pump (which seemed fine) for the new style one from MWB. I decided to go ahead and install the new one. I've been driving the car regularly, for about 4 months now and it appears to be working just fine.
 
Tom - your MWB pump had the stamped steel impeller? Interesting that the picture of the water pump replacement on the MWB site looks like a cast impeller. Anyway, maybe I should just use the new one. The old one will be kept as a backup.
 
I have no knowledge of the effectiveness of the stamped steel impeller, but I do know that the GMB pump has quite the following in the DOHC engine crowd. I also know SOHC racers that use them exclusively. FWTW...
 
I believe GMB has made pumps with both styles of impeller )I know for fact they do for other cars of the same style and era). So going only by the brand name may not tell us much about which actual impeller it has or how to compare it overall. In general I've found GMB quality to be good, however that's not the question here - the type of impeller is.
 
So I wonder what type of impeller Steve was assessing in his comparison, the cast type or the stamped steel type? Any thoughts Steve? Also wonder if the cast impeller was an earlier version and now they use stamped. When I ordered mine off Rockauto GMB only had the one option for non ac.
 
Tom - your MWB pump had the stamped steel impeller? Interesting that the picture of the water pump replacement on the MWB site looks like a cast impeller. Anyway, maybe I should just use the new one. The old one will be kept as a backup.
Yes. The impeller vanes on both my old and new pumps are identical to yours. And I kept the old one as a back up, as well.
 
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