what socket size for removing the crankshaft pulley nut?

Yes, the crank nut is 38mm or 1.5" hex. Typically torqued to just a pinch over 100 ft/lb.
That size socket should not be difficult to obtain at very modest cost.

Bernice


Haven't one quite that size in my socket set. Is the nut really that big ?
May habr to visir tool shop
 
We've had an '87 & '88 here in the UK and both were 36mm - suspect it's a year thing (14 bolt head era) rather than carburettor vs FI! Granted the '82 has 38mm and that one does fit the FIAT tool :)
 
That Fiat tool is really practical. Much more than a socket because it goes into tight space. I took the picture beside a 10 mm key, just to put it in perspective. BTW, my 1987 also got the 38mm nut.
20200720_184939.jpg
 
I was planning on using my giant adjustable wrench. Should I be getting a fixed tool instead?

Yes. :) I wouldn't go after it with an adjustable. IIRC, the crank is on there with around 100 ft lbs of torque. Last time I removed one, I used an impact wrench to spin it off.
 
Which will slip off causing personal injury and likely damage to the parts being wrenched on....
Would ya do this on a 10 million Ferrari with no easily available replacement crank nut?

All this to save maybe $10 for a 1-1/2" hex socket..

What Could Possibly Go wrong...?


Bernice

I was planning on using my giant adjustable wrench. Should I be getting a fixed tool instead?
 
Right sized socket and an impact gun will make this a five minute job and that includes jacking up the car to take the wheel off.
Sometimes work around tools are needed but not in this case. Amazon is your friend.
 
Right sized socket and an impact gun will make this a five minute job and that includes jacking up the car to take the wheel off.
Sometimes work around tools are needed but not in this case. Amazon is your friend.

What Could Possibly Go wrong...?
Bernice

Thanks. I hadn't realized that I will be able to access this nut with the wheel off with an impact wrench. A socket is a no brainer, especially with 100 ft lbs of torque needed. We youtube mechanics have a steep learning curve you know.
 
Fiat crank nuts do not usually get stuck on the crank... like Honda-BMW (these are often an access issue) and others which require nee 1,000 ft/lb to remove in some severe cases.

Another good design is Saab's B204/B234, the cranks screw has essentially a GIANT spring washer to retain tension on the crank pullet to crank. Spec torque is near 200 ft/lb, but these don't get stuck due to design. similar to Fiat.

Takes a few seconds to remove the Fiat crank nut with a proper impact socket and good impact wrench. If you go the impact wrench route, use a socket designed for impact or that socket can shatter wrecking you and that day or more. Chrome sockets are specifically designed to be non-impact driven, their hardness and materials used is completely different than a impact socket..


Bernice
 
If removing the nut is your goal, then an impact socket is the way to go. If you just want to turn the crank to get TDC, then an closed 38 wrench will work well. Much better than trying to turn the whole thing with your cam bolt.

"Oh! God! I just snapped that bolt! I will have to remove the whole cam assembly to drill that bolt out...." Don't ask how I know.
 
I'm going to have to remove the pulley because I need to change the timing belt as part of my project to change the cam gasket.
Crank pulley doesn’t need to come off to change the timing belt. If you start the belt on the crank sprocket first, it will just barely slide sideways between the pulley and the block. It’s a tighter fit on the 1500, but I’ve never had to remove the pulley.
 
If the timing belt cog on the crank has not been replaced, it would be a very good idea to replace it as it does wear and could cause a timing belt slip. Not common, but could happen.

Do replace the front oil seal if that has not been done. They can leak due to age and wear.

Other than this, no need to remove the crank pulley as the belt just clears the gap between pulley and block seal plate.



Bernice
 
Crank pulley doesn’t need to come off to change the timing belt. If you start the belt on the crank sprocket first, it will just barely slide sideways between the pulley and the block. It’s a tighter fit on the 1500, but I’ve never had to remove the pulley.
Not sure I get this - you either need to remove the pulley or remove the belts on the pulley to get the timing belt onto the sprockets, don't you?
 

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