Wheel Fitment

It absolutley always does. If you raise the OD, you raise the gearing and you DECREASE brake power and unless you lower the car back again , you raise CoG whitch reduces cornering power and increases load transfer forward under braking. If you lower to compensate, you still have taller gearing and reduced brake power, plus now you have reduced suspension travel and suspension geometry operating away from the design point. No worries, now we fit bigger brakes and do a whole bunch of serious changes to get suspension geometric control back - oh and we probably need to some work on steering along the way.

In summary, unless you are talking doing all the downstream changes, don't change the OD.. If we are talking race - all bets off cos you need to change everything anyway :)

And... wide tyres come with increased sensitivity to dynamic camber change and the contact patch aspect ratio also makes them more skittish in response to road irregularities and more prone to aquaplanning and and and. But hey, have fun!
:)
It'll be getting larger/more powerful brakes. I'm not at all worried about gearing since this is getting a K24A and X2M5 manual 6 speed trans out of a Rsx Type S. If needed to compensate I can always run stiffer springs on the coilovers, it will also be lowered quite a bit, but again primarily for looks as I don't plan on any sort of aggressive racing. Much of the car will already need to be changed to accommodate the new engine and trans.
 
It'll be getting larger/more powerful brakes. I'm not at all worried about gearing since this is getting a K24A and X2M5 manual 6 speed trans out of a Rsx Type S. If needed to compensate I can always run stiffer springs on the coilovers, it will also be lowered quite a bit, but again primarily for looks as I don't plan on any sort of aggressive racing. Much of the car will already need to be changed to accommodate the new engine and trans.
Tire choice should be first priority, tire choice should be based in goals, availability, how-where this Lancia will be driven. Once tire choice is made , wheel choice follows.

If "looks-fashion" is the prime goal, why bother with any of the other items like "coil overs" different power train and all that.. These are absolutely conflicting goals/ideas.. up the power, means getting the chassis/suspension/brakes/tires-wheels and all to meet the demands of increased power.

~It all must balance out evenly, any single item and function of the entire system that is outa-whack will produce an un-drivable car.. that might "look" good..

The engine mounts in the Scorpiacarlo are "bolted-in" this is due to the fact back when this chassis was designed, Fiat/Lancia/Pininfarina was not certain what power train was going to be in it.. this was partly due to the OPEC oil crunch back in the early 1970's.. Know the chassis/suspension was originally designed for a V6..

Brakes can be upgrades in a very wide variety of ways.. from modified production parts to floater drive brake disc with staggered diameter brake caliper pistons and independent master cylinders with brake bias adjust bar and more...

Coil overs means zilch other than spring-damper combo. The stock strut spring/damper is a "coil over"... This is more about changes in damper/spring rates as needed.. which is always a trade-off. what works excellent for a road track course might not work or do at all for a road car..

The most difficult aspect of any modifications, setting it all up and getting all those bits to work properly together.. Parts alone will not do.. it is much and more about getting all the bits to function/work properly..

~It's all a trade off with no ideal solution or "modifications-fixes" for all needs.
Bernice
 
"Those four small patches of rubber on the road is the only things between you and St. Peter."
~Mark Donahue.



Bernice
 
Watch a handful of Formula One races to understand how much grip variation there is in compound alone and they aren't even using the full spectrum. Its compound that makes a winter tire, not tread features. You can have the widest tires possible but if they are made out of hockey pucks they aren't as effective as just going to a softer compound.
 
Tire choice should be first priority, tire choice should be based in goals, availability, how-where this Lancia will be driven. Once tire choice is made , wheel choice follows.

If "looks-fashion" is the prime goal, why bother with any of the other items like "coil overs" different power train and all that.. These are absolutely conflicting goals/ideas.. up the power, means getting the chassis/suspension/brakes/tires-wheels and all to meet the demands of increased power.

~It all must balance out evenly, any single item and function of the entire system that is outa-whack will produce an un-drivable car.. that might "look" good..

The engine mounts in the Scorpiacarlo are "bolted-in" this is due to the fact back when this chassis was designed, Fiat/Lancia/Pininfarina was not certain what power train was going to be in it.. this was partly due to the OPEC oil crunch back in the early 1970's.. Know the chassis/suspension was originally designed for a V6..

Brakes can be upgrades in a very wide variety of ways.. from modified production parts to floater drive brake disc with staggered diameter brake caliper pistons and independent master cylinders with brake bias adjust bar and more...

Coil overs means zilch other than spring-damper combo. The stock strut spring/damper is a "coil over"... This is more about changes in damper/spring rates as needed.. which is always a trade-off. what works excellent for a road track course might not work or do at all for a road car..

The most difficult aspect of any modifications, setting it all up and getting all those bits to work properly together.. Parts alone will not do.. it is much and more about getting all the bits to function/work properly..

~It's all a trade off with no ideal solution or "modifications-fixes" for all needs.
Bernice
Tire compound is one of the absolute least of my worries at the moment as it is one the most easily changed aspects of the car, whereas getting correct wheel size and offset is a little more complicated. Adjustable coilovers can do quite a bit to help wheel fitment and looks. If I didn't mess with them I'd have a car that both looks and performs poorly. My engine mounts are not going to be anything close to original either, like I said it's getting a K24A. And again as I've said, I'm not racing this car. Yes it will be faster than stock or even a heavily modified twin cam but the point of the build is to have something that's fun and looks nice. Pic of the new and old engine so hopefully a little more insight can be gleaned.
 

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AH see this makes sense, it doesn't answer the original question but at least that explains how we got here. Thanks!
What we are saying is the correct wheel size is not 037 width wheels without 037 bodywork and to compromise narrower with grippy tires
 
AH see this makes sense, it doesn't answer the original question but at least that explains how we got here. Thanks!
Take the time to read this current discussion on suspension/chassis.

Bernice
 
Take the time to read this current discussion on suspension/chassis.

Bernice
All useful info and I appreciate all the knowledge in this thread. However, I'm not sure it exactly applies to what I'm building, since what I'm doing for suspension is essentially OEM+ all original oem suspension parts besides the Koni coilovers or struts if you'd rather them be called that. I don't want the overall feel of the car to change from original which is why I'm not doing any subframe swapping, nor am I making a race car, my goal is to make a clean example that's fun to look at and fun to drive. But again as I've said I'm not making any huge suspension changes just some refurbishing and minor upgrades.
 
I don't want the overall feel of the car to change from original which is why I'm not doing any subframe swapping, nor am I making a race car, my goal is to make a clean example that's fun to look at and fun to drive. But again as I've said I'm not making any huge suspension changes just some refurbishing and minor upgrades.
Increasing the front wheels width by 3 inches is definitely going to affect the turn in for the worse and going to take more muscle at slow speed without power steering.

Once you figure offset and if you'll need spacers to know proper length then it'll be a good time to procure wheel stud conversion.
 
Increasing the front wheels width by 3 inches is definitely going to affect the turn in for the worse and going to take more muscle at slow speed without power steering.

Once you figure offset and if you'll need spacers to know proper length then it'll be a good time to procure wheel stud conversion.
Any ideas on a staggered setup? Like 6.5 or 7 up front and 8 or 9 in the back?
 
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These are 16" X 7" with a +12 offset running no spacers and the wheels are the same front/rear. Tires are 215 40/R16 and 225 45R16. The front scrub radius is pretty close to the center of the tread so it handles remarkably well. The 16" wheel allows for clearance of 6 piston Wilwood calipers on the front and 4 piston rear. There are coil over Ledas which the tires clear but I really don't know if this wheel/tire combo will clear OE OD springs. The added tire footprint and braking capability was pretty rough on the front suspension's strut rod (tension rod) mounts and they had to be reinforced. There is no rubbing and have worked rather well for over 10 years.

>Scott
 
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These are 16" X 7" with a +12 offset running no spacers and the wheels are the same front/rear. Tires are 215 40/R16 and 225 45R16. The front scrub radius is pretty close to the center of the tread so it handles remarkably well. The 16" wheel allows for clearance of 6 piston Wilwood calipers on the front and 4 piston rear. There are coil over Ledas which the tires clear but I really don't know if this wheel/tire combo will clear OE OD springs. The added tire footprint and braking capability was pretty rough on the front suspension's strut rod (tension rod) mounts and they had to be reinforced. There is no rubbing and have worked rather well for over 10 years.

>Scott
How did you go about strengthening the strut rod mount?
 
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