X died on the way home

Discussion in 'Workshop Forum' started by countryguy53, Dec 18, 2017.

  1. countryguy53

    countryguy53 Daily Driver

    Location:
    Monroe Washington
    changed the ecu and still the same issues, so after messing with the timing belt so much i ordered a new one with a tension bearing(its overdue) after looking closely to the wiki on timing i again closely checked the marks on the crank pulley,compared it to the marks on the flywheel side and they are 5 degrees off from each other so i am going off the crank gear not the flywheel mark, and the cam gear is not on the pointer when on tdc, the belt is keeping it from lining up (the mark is at the bottom of a cog and it will only line up with middle of the next high spot on the belt maybe because its stretched) so i'm waiting for parts now..the way it is now it fires a bit occasionally and tries to start but certainly not like it should or the way it used to...thinking about changing back to the origional ecu.. to get it back to the original parts
     
  2. countryguy53

    countryguy53 Daily Driver

    Location:
    Monroe Washington
    replaced the ignition module tonight, grabbed one out of parts car damn 8mm nuts installed it and it turned out to be bad(even tho it was working when i started parting it out)...after trying to start the car with the bad module in it the plugs were soaked so i took the one out of my old daily driver and put it in.. fires now so i'm going to put new plugs in tomorrow morn and hopefully it will fire and keep running after 5 min......i have already removed the line to the cold start valve....and the pressure stays stable while off....Is there anything i can adjust to reduce the gas being put into the cylinders?
     
  3. Pete Whitstone

    Pete Whitstone True Classic

    Location:
    McKinney, TX
    No one seems to have brought up the possibility of the computer getting bad information about the engine temps. Someone else on here (jvandyke maybe?) had a hell of a time getting his car running, because the temp sender or the wiring between the temp sender and the computer was bad. Corroded wires were leading to resistance readings that were way out of range, playing all kinds of havoc with the engine tune. Some searching on the forum would probably turn up the thread.

    Pete
     
  4. countryguy53

    countryguy53 Daily Driver

    Location:
    Monroe Washington
    the temp gauge works ok but i will check wiring to see if its spliced or frayed anywhere i will check wiring diagram and see if it shows wiring going to ecu and temp gauge ....thks gene
     
  5. kmead

    kmead True Classic

    Location:
    Grand Rapids, MI
    Water can work its way into the wire loom sheath and then into the connector at the ECU, I believe this is what happened with Jeff VanDyke.

    Have look at the coolant temp sender, different part than the coolant gauge sender, to verify the quality of the connection and that the sender has the correct resistance so the ECU is getting correct information.
     
  6. Pete Whitstone

    Pete Whitstone True Classic

    Location:
    McKinney, TX
    Exactly as Karl says... there are 2 different senders, one for the gauge and one for the computer. You need to not only check the sender itself but also the resistance of the wire between the sender and the computer.

    Pete
     
  7. countryguy53

    countryguy53 Daily Driver

    Location:
    Monroe Washington
    went out to work on x and change the ecu temp sender, compared readings on temp sender in car and sender out of parts car they were different readings so i changed it, still would 't start.....had someone else turn it over as i checked timing with a timing lite, one flash from the lite and then nothing.. i took coil wire and held it 1/2in away from block and it fired, but still no spark from lite unless its close enough to the block to spark, verified lite was working on different car(lite was good)i took a spark plug and hooked it up to verify spark, while grounding it to block, it fired and the lite worked so i put it in #one and tried it again and again no lite and didn't start...arrrrgg yesterday i had it running and it ran rich thats why i was changing ecu temp sensor....verified wire from sender to ecu#13 and 5 for ground ......any ideas on why the spark appears and dissapears under pressure working on second set of new plugs NGK BPR6EY... checked wires and everything seems to be hooked up
     
  8. SpidArman

    SpidArman Collector of wayward cars

    Location:
    Mount Bethel, Pa
    Perhaps bad wire in the wiring harness to the ECU?
     
  9. countryguy53

    countryguy53 Daily Driver

    Location:
    Monroe Washington
    i verified wires between sender and ecu
     
  10. countryguy53

    countryguy53 Daily Driver

    Location:
    Monroe Washington
    After replacing every electrical piece i could think of in my X, from my parts car after a month of switching parts, it was the TEMP SENDER (a 16.50 part if i got a new one) that talks to the ECU, it tells the ecu to give it more gas when it gets the wrong signal from the sender.....Anyway its back on the road, with no cat (cause it thought it might be blocked)so as a side benefit it breathes better. Thanks for all the ideas on where to look next. gene
     
    motoTrooper likes this.
  11. MikeHynes

    MikeHynes True Classic

    Location:
    Goodfield, IL.
    Congratulations, sorry it took you so long to get everything sorted out. Good news, now you have a lot of experience troubleshooting the car. With the L-Jetronic system the temp sensor has the biggest influence (by far) on fuel delivered. It's not a bad practice to verify that it's functioning correctly first when you're having issues.
     

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