Alternator

Alternator

Replacement

Apparently a GM Delco Alternator can be used: http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/delcoremy.shtml

Many have decided to use a GM alternator instead of the original. Why? cheaper, easily available anyway, more amps, more reliable. Why not? needs some modifications. Cars with air conditioning (AC, or A/C) are a bit different with much less room to work with but I believe all the following still applies. Access to the alternator is best through the rear trunk's access panel. You did know you had one right? (in later cars anyway). In short, the pivot foot, where the alternator mounts on the block must be cut down and a top bracket (the adjustable one) replaced. GM alternators have less spread between the lower foot arms, the Fiat one is too wide, about 1" needs to be hacked out. This doesn't have to be precise since washers can be installed on either side, inside or outside the bracket to get the position of pulley alignment just right so the belt runs straight and true. Cutting a bit more out of the bracket is easily rectified with a washer or two, cutting too little means you get to go back and cut more. The top bracket is most easily replaced with the Mr. Gasket bracket referenced below. It will need to cut down and a new mounting hole drilled too though. It is typically mounted to the engine using one of the water pump bolts. A bit of spacer will be needed as a "stand off" to hold the alternator and top bracket in alignment. The top bracket will end up too far "in" from the alternator's top mounting hole so a spacer will be needed to make up the difference between the bracket and the alternator. Which GM alternator? Most any. one from a '78 Camaro with a 350 is often cited. Will have a mounting point clocked at 180 degrees (the top mount, adjustable one, is directly opposite the foot mount-pivot mount). or "6 and 12". The following is pulled from an earlier thread: (quoting myself actually) ..."Found out they clock from the backside so pivot mount at 6, adjustable at 10 would seem ideal, usual 6 and 12 are obviously fine as many have done it. I wonder if a 6/10 one would let you use the factory upper bracket? I will score one and find out but I'm first going to pull and examine my Bosch." (OEM upper bracket still will not work, alignment still all wrong) I used one from '91 Cutlass Supreme 3.4 but many from that era used it. Available for about $50, 100amp CS-130, 6/10 clocking.

Lower pivot (foot) bracket before and after cut (pictures taken from Tom's thread)

Upper bracket, Mr. Gasket brand, for any GM 350 I think, generic, with spacer (which must be cut down-hole end cut way back and a new hole drilled)

not a very good shot of upper bracket mounted with spacer just barely visible between upper arm and alt.

http://xwebforums.org/showthread.php?t=15589&highlight=alternator+swap http://xwebforums.org/showthread.php?t=16735&highlight=alternator+swap http://xwebforums.org/showthread.php?t=23299&highlight=alternator+conversion http://xwebforums.org/showthread.php?t=23317&highlight=alternator+conversion

http://www.network54.com/Forum/12159/message/1142890167/GM+alternator+conversion http://xwebforums.org/showthread.php?t=20873&highlight=alternator+swap

More wiring related http://xwebforums.org/showthread.php?t=23299&highlight=alternator+conversion&page=2

My solution, since I had the CS-130 with mounting clocked at 6/10 and had broken the water pump bolt and the standard Mr. Gasket chrome arm wouldn't work anyway, was to use a heim joint. This worked fine in the end but was a hassle to get there. Not really recommended unless you plan for it. Ultimately probably better then a flimsy Mr. Gasket bracket held on by one little water pump bolt. 3 years now, works great.