What did you do to your X1/9 today ?
- Thread starter Eastep
- Start date
Tom Ginefra
True Classic
Every worthwhile project deserves a worthwhile mascot.
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
Late response here.
If you go back up the page, there was a question about the fuel hoses on a fuel injected tank. Which side the pick-up and return lines connect to. It might differ on other years, but on my '85 it is like the other poster (MarcusDeli) showed...pick-up on the right:
This tank is covered with undercoating and looks odd here. But that is a view of the right lower corner, as viewed from the rear of the car facing forward (although it is out of the car).
NEG
True Classic
Went for a nice drive yesterday, beautiful day but cold. Heater fan switch decided to play up and the left hand headlight pod refused to raise. Checked and cleaned the fuses and wiring to the headlight, all good. Seems to be an intermittent fault as it eventually worked OK, maybe a lazy relay or poor earth will investigate.
Replaced the heater fan switch with a spare but noted the fan graphic is different so no longer matches the other dash switches…decided to take it apart.
Unlike modern switch gear where everything is sealed these old rocker switches can be pulled apart
The switch is a two position single pole type but Fiat or whoever in their wisdom fitted a ‘spare’ plunger or indent finger for us to use. Presumably for use with another set of contacts in a different configuration
You can see the wear difference.
Extracting the plunger requires a cut to be made with a craft knife in the plastic tube holding it so it can be pulled out and swapped with the ‘spare’
I did a quick clean up of the contacts and put some general purpose grease on the indent finger and switch contact spring before clipping it all back together.
Now works like a charm!
Replaced the heater fan switch with a spare but noted the fan graphic is different so no longer matches the other dash switches…decided to take it apart.
Unlike modern switch gear where everything is sealed these old rocker switches can be pulled apart
The switch is a two position single pole type but Fiat or whoever in their wisdom fitted a ‘spare’ plunger or indent finger for us to use. Presumably for use with another set of contacts in a different configuration
You can see the wear difference.
Extracting the plunger requires a cut to be made with a craft knife in the plastic tube holding it so it can be pulled out and swapped with the ‘spare’
I did a quick clean up of the contacts and put some general purpose grease on the indent finger and switch contact spring before clipping it all back together.
Now works like a charm!
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
That is a dramatic demonstration that really gets 'the point' across well (see what I did there). Thanks for sharing this info, excellent.
I know we've seen other switches rebuilt in the past (I think there is a write up for one in the Wiki?). And those pointed contact pins are always an issue. Seems to be a weak spot and the reason for most switch failures. Which makes me wonder if there might be a way to make new replacement pins/contacts? Looking at the following image, they appear to be fairly basic. Get some brass(?) rod of the right diameter, drill one end and shape the other end?
NEG, after looking at your switch pieces do you think replacements could be made? Or was there something more complex about them?
NEG
True Classic
No nothing complex at all Dr.Jeff, brass would work maybe. The indent finger itself is counter drilled, the spring is at least a third longer than in the pic. There is a small step or lip on the side of the indent finger that fits into the slot of the sleeve that I cut for removal but I don’t think that’s essential for the operation of the switch.
autox19
True Classic
Worked on a prototype for the shift linkage. Much much better. Now I need to take the glob flux weld mess out and make the final version. Fyi. Reason #265 on why a k swap is better than a b swap. Rod linkage was vague at best, first iteration of cable shift conversion onto a rod shift trans was livable. This one is really tight but not as efficient as the k that is meant to be cable.
Odie
Odie
kmead
Old enough to know better
I need to go out and look at my cars. I may be crazy and mis-remembering... shoot. Hang head in shame.
NEG
True Classic
Broke it. Good run out in the 1300 some twisty stuff then a bit of high speed freeway cruising back home. A mile out changed into third as I approached a junction around 30mph, missed the gear and crunched it because the engine cut out for no apparent reason. Couldn’t restart it and had to get the wife to tow the car home.
I have a spark and fuel (can see it in the filter and the accelerator jet is working). Pulled the plugs, all good and not flooded. The engine catches briefly but won’t start almost like the cam timing or ignition timing is out. I have a points replacement module fitted and I’m wondering if that’s the issue but I have a spark. Measured the coil all ok at 3.4 ohms. Checked the rotor arm and dizzy cap. All seem ok. I’m at a bit of a loss as what could be wrong...
I have a spark and fuel (can see it in the filter and the accelerator jet is working). Pulled the plugs, all good and not flooded. The engine catches briefly but won’t start almost like the cam timing or ignition timing is out. I have a points replacement module fitted and I’m wondering if that’s the issue but I have a spark. Measured the coil all ok at 3.4 ohms. Checked the rotor arm and dizzy cap. All seem ok. I’m at a bit of a loss as what could be wrong...
dllubin
Don
I would check the valve and ignition timing first if you are suspicious about it. The cam timing on a 1300 does not need to go out too far before the valves will hit the pistons (I've got one in my basement with this affliction) and then you can end up with an engine rebuild on your hands.
NEG
True Classic
Checked fuel deliver and all is Ok, noted the fuel lines have started to go brittle/rigid so replaced them with modern spec. Ethanol resistant lines. Pulled the dizzy and converted them back to the stock points system. Will check the cam timing tomorrow and if ok will try to get the car started.
NEG
True Classic
Still no go with the stock points, even replaced the coil. So decided to pull the carb, I was going to rebuild it anyhow so now is a good a time as any. Think the floats may have been stuck down, don’t know for sure but I did find the carb base warped a little. 15 mins flatting with some 180 grit paper got it flat a again.
NEG
True Classic
Finally found the issue of my none starting X, the cam timing had indeed slipped. I have a suspicion the garage I bought the car from, who had replaced the head gasket, reused the cambelt and not tensioned it properly and may have also fitted it a tooth out. The problem was also compounded by the carb which I suspect had a stuck float valve. As it’s a 1300 I’m surprised and relieved the valves didn’t hit the pistons!
Anyhow, I finally got around to rebuilding the carb that I’d been putting off for weeks and I have a new cambelt and tensioner on order...
Anyhow, I finally got around to rebuilding the carb that I’d been putting off for weeks and I have a new cambelt and tensioner on order...
Cratecruncher
True Classic
Cars and Coffee this morning: "What izit?" "It's an MR2. My dad had one." "Naw, it's a Bert One. Says it right here." "What's that?"
Cratecruncher
True Classic
Was that the entire "Fiat" section of the show?Looks lonely by itself, need to get more of them there.
It was the entire "European Import" section. But not to worry. Twenty minutes after I took this photo about 50 911s showed up all at the same time in a Germanic blitzkrieg. I did meet several "former" X1/9 owners. But no one under 50 had any idea this car ever even existed.
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
Wow. I have the impression that Austin is a 'muscle car' town (as are most American areas), but I thought there were a lot of European vehicle enthusiasts there also.
Dan Sarandrea (Phila)
Waitin' On Parts...
One of my typical conversations.....
Q: It's a TR7? TR8? MR2?
A: No, it's a Bertone [Bear-TONE-Ay]
Q: A what?
A: A Bertone [Bear-TONE-Ay].
Q: A Ber-Tone?
A: Yeah (close enough).
Q: Who makes it?
A: Bear-TONE-Ay.
Q: Yeah, but who makes the car?
A: Bear-TONE-Ay.
Q: [Blank look].
A: It's a FIAT.
Q: Oh, yeah, I thought so.
NEG
True Classic
New cambelt and tensioner fitted today. The old tensioner felt rough when turned and the old cambelt seemed to be very flexible compared to the new one, when laid out side by side the old belt was a little longer. Couldn’t see the manufacturers name and I’m wondering if it is a poorly made Chinese copy part. Anyhow the car now runs and starts on the first turn.