Fiat x1/9 Stratos style

[ghostdancing]

interesting the two different approaches, one so hi tech and the other rather agricultural, cutting junk panels to build the mold.. have to say that my personal way is the second one...looking forward for progress on your projects, friends

 

[Jefco]

one so hi tech

The drawings are very ambitious, sourcing the taillights might be difficult.

 

[Bjorn Nilson]

This section is also planned to be opened.

Now I understand what you are looking for. This is a good idea compared to repairing a rotten engine lid. As you are planning to have the cooler in the trunk, I think it is a good idea to open up the rear side of the duck tail. But of course you must open up between spoiler and trunk to allow hot air to escape. In theory there would be a low pressure created just behind the tail that will suck out the hot air from the trunk?

 

[Integrale]

I believe they're the same taillights on an 850 spider

 

[motoTrooper]

This is all great stuff!

 

[Jefco]

I believe they're the same taillights on an 850 spider

Coupe, not spider.

 

[Janis]

Final silhouette for the louver.

 

[Bobkat]

Off topic but what muffler is that?

 

[Janis]

Simons from Sweden

 

[Black-Tooth]

WOWOWOWOWOW on the Stratos X1/9!

And great work Janis... coming along nicely!

 

[Bobkat]

The drawings are very ambitious, sourcing the taillights might be difficult.

Already have the tail lights. I will be 3D printing the reflector and bulb housings to fit the X openings.

 

[Bobkat]

I believe they're the same taillights on an 850 spider

850s, Ford f40s, stratos, and some Russian truck or van that I can't seem to find.

 

[Jefco]

I will be 3D printing the reflector and bulb housings to fit the X openings.

I forget that parts can be custom manufactured almost direct from the drawing stage anymore, instead of the old find-a-part-and-modify-it method.

 

[Bobkat]

I forget that parts can be custom manufactured almost direct from the drawing stage anymore, instead of the old find-a-part-and-modify-it method.

Going direct to 3D would take way to long to print. A ducktail would take about 120hrs of print time with a 30%failure. It is a combination of new and old. Most of the shaping is done by hand. I print profiles much like old school wood bucks for aluminum car bodies. Then use industry standard expanded vinyl sheet and block to fill in the shapes. Using the bucks ensures symmetry . So much shows up in hand shaping that you can't ( I can't ) see in CAD. Everything is worked out in the vinyl sheet then a mold is made from the final design. How many copies you plan on making sets how detailed and sturdy the mold is. I have to plan on having 3 molds for the three Molds of the ducktail headlight surround. Three molds for the spoiler. Two for the side extensions and then the louvers.

 

[Dr.Jeff]

Bob, are the molds you make for using CF as the actual product material? Or are you talking about the vinyl being the final material? Just curious.

Speaking of the old school methods of making custom parts by hand, I am truly amazed at what some people can do. There are some very talented craftsmen that take a flat sheet of metal and turn it into incredible works of art - automotive wise. All with old school techniques.

 

[Bobkat]

I forget that parts can be custom manufactured almost direct from the drawing stage anymore, instead of the old find-a-part-and-modify-it method.

Sorry I did not see what you were referencing. Yes things like the housings will be 3D printed. The tech is perfect for one offs like those. I have 3D printed all the rubber body plugs on the X along with the front headlight bucket fillers and the early style side marker lights.

 

[Bobkat]

Bob, are the molds you make for using CF as the actual product material? Or are you talking about the vinyl being the final material? Just curious.

Speaking of the old school methods of making custom parts by hand, I am truly amazed at what some people can do. There are some very talented craftsmen that take a flat sheet of metal and turn it into incredible works of art - automotive wise. All with old school techniques.

I would love to take a master class in metal shaping. There are some very great programs out there.

The expanded vinyl will just be the prototype or plug for making the mold.( I have no idea how people go direct to a mold with out a part to make a mold from that takes balls. )
Peoples terminology gets a bit confusing. The plug is the positive part. The mold is the negative impression of the part that you want to make copies of. The final parts will be in CF and Hemp. Most of it will be painted body color. CF is for strength and light weight. Plus I hate working in glass and ester resins. I try to stay with eco/nose friendly materials.

 

[Janis]

I would love to take a master class in metal shaping. There are some very great programs out there.

The expanded vinyl will just be the prototype or plug for making the mold.( I have no idea how people go direct to a mold with out a part to make a mold from that takes balls. )
Peoples terminology gets a bit confusing. The plug is the positive part. The mold is the negative impression of the part that you want to make copies of. The final parts will be in CF and Hemp. Most of it will be painted body color. CF is for strength and light weight. Plus I hate working in glass and ester resins. I try to stay with eco/nose friendly materials.

I will test my balls at this time I see no reason to make a model (positive), my only positive is in picture below, and directly on it will build negative from plywood. But as I have this “positive”

it is also a point from which I could much easier make that louver/bonnets from aluminium.

 

[Dr.Jeff]

make that louver/bonnets from aluminium

That would be a good idea also.

 

[JNewm]

@mkmini, how did you manage to get that jacked-up look in the back? Like many, I've always thought the stock X suffers from saggy-ass syndrome. One way to fix it is to lower the front, but lately I've been playing with the idea of lifting the back instead.