Selling the X & Bought an 75 Datsun 280Z

[lookforjoe]

Swapped the coil & transistor module back in, however the middle post on the ballast snapped off when I did the conversion. Without that increased voltage when cranking, the engine is not starting.

I'll have to see if I can get inside the ballast to add the intermediate post back tomorrow. In the meantime, I think I have to assume the SMP HEI module I bought is defective, the wiring is definitely correct. I've ordered a genuine AC Delco D1906 module to replace it.

 

[lookforjoe]

So the issue with the ballast was that without the center post, there is no continuity.



repaired, then reassembled in outer casing







Started right up....but.... still hunts 2500-3000K rpm with stock module setup. So, moving on from ignition as the cause, most likely at this point would seem to actually be hunting due to lack of fuel volume - possibly crud in the fuel rail, since I did have all that apart to change the hoses.

 

[lookforjoe]

The point of getting it running, was so I could vacuum & charge the AC system, to make sure there are no leaks - so I can put the dash back together .
I found that one crimp I had made was insufficient. The high side line fitting to the orifice tube leaked with the system under pressure. I re-crimped it, and was able to then fully charge the system. Pressures seem OK for an 80º afternoon, and it blows cold. Condenser fan doesn't come on until high side hits about 250, but then drops pretty quickly. Anyway, I now know the AC system is functional.

blurry pic of recrimp. Fortunately it was a fitting I could access & didn't have to remove the hose to do the job.

 

[lookforjoe]

Leaving the EMS issue alone right now so I can get the interior back together. I am going to swap out the 125A breaker on the start feed for something heavier, as that has blown 2x cranking the motor with whatever funky timing is going on with the modules (EDIT - problem with breaker was due to bad rebuilt starter current draw)

Added the WBO2 sensor & finished the wiring routing to the center console for that & other things I'm adding

WBO2 harness passing through floor where cat sensor used to be

factory cover that was used for the Cat heat sensor harness routing

with that wired, I installed the pass undermats & new carpet, then got the dash situated (with the help of the Mrs)

 

[kmead]

I am going to swap out the 125A breaker on the start feed for something heavier, as that has blown 2x cranking the motor with whatever funky timing is going on with the modules
View attachment 77823

MTA CBD?

 

[lookforjoe]

MTA CBD?
View attachment 77839

That is what's in there - the large fuse is a Mega. I'll put in a 175amp.

dash & carpets moistly back together. Have to wire the center console before I start the engine again

Worked on the console in the house , since it's now raining again. forecast is rain this weekend, AND rain next weekend. This weather is nuts.

shifter boot

rear edge can't fit hardware due to fat leather seams, so I cut one of the factory retainers in half

cup/ phone holder to replace ashtray

trimmed radio mount plate & fitted 3 gauge pod. Had to plastic-dip it to soften the forms, it is sold with unfinished 3d printed texture.

Hopefully the rain will stop by Sunday & I'll get the remaining console wiring sorted & console installed. I do have a disturbing amount of left over hardware for the dash - this can't all be for the glovebox & center console

 

[kmead]

View attachment 77864
View attachment 77865

Gah! Need to sand that and then blow some dry paint on it to get to a stipple texture

 

[lookforjoe]

Gah! Need to sand that and then blow some dry paint on it to get to a stipple texture

Now that sounds like way too much work for something that is tucked under the main console. Not that I don't don't things unnecessarily....

 

[lookforjoe]

Hopefully back on this tomorrow. Daughter came in from FL for an overnight visit yesterday. I did a little wiring prep while we were sitting around chatting

Have to re do the worn out silver surround on the switches

 

[lookforjoe]

Happy Indigenous Peoples Day. Gave me a steady 8 hours to work on the Datsun. I did futz for an hour or so sorting a bunch of electrical connectors & terminals that arrived, but besides that I plugged away on sorting out the console wiring & got that installed. Only had to pull it back out once, as the ground connection for the WBO2 controller was NG - fixed that.

I added a Volvo ground tree on the HVAC center support

New Dash center console opening is not even

LED bulbs for the gauges

Charge indicator lamp (needed for AC relay activation). AC T/stat is an issue - the threaded section is too short for the depth of the console. I need to make a recessed plate, or find a shouldered M10x1 nut

Cover plate I made using a Volvo 240 control cover. Have to rework this.

Seat heater switches - 3 temp settings

Shifter boot neck is way too large. Not worth cutting & re-sewing, I'll have to deal. Maybe.

After that I ran the motor until warm , disconnected the CIS system to make sure it wasn't somehow flaking out the EFI, no change.

I'd say the real issue is that the system is just WAAAY to lean across the board - AFR's started out over 14 when it was cold, and got leaner from there. Settled around 16.5-16.7 warm at normal operating temp, so about 2 points to lean off the bat. Regulated pressure is steady at 36psi, and rises when engine is revved, Unplugging each injector affects the running. I'm going to pull the rail again & see if I have a restriction in there, I didn't flush the rails when I did the hoses.

 

[lookforjoe]

I did remove the rails & hoses today, blew out the lines. No sign of debris, but at least I've ruled that out.

Also pulled the plugs & checked that. They're not old, and they look pretty even

The only other thing I'm wondering about, is the AFM - the cover is not fixed, and I've knocked it off several times. I'm wondering if I somehow messed up the sweep. Can't tell if it's actually making contact with the board. Does seem like a stretch, though.

 

[lookforjoe]

I did deal with the AC switch plate. I realized a rivnut would make the perfect shoulder nut

Determined 14mm is the depth I need to seat the T/stat. Cut down a couple rivnuts until I got one that was right. Filed down the OD a touch

Rethreaded the nut to 10x1, drilled out the cover plate to fit, notched the cap so I can tighten it down.

should fit like this

 

[kmead]

I believe there is a Volvo part for this.

 

[lookforjoe]

I believe there is another Volvo part for this.
View attachment 77949

Indeed! I do have one left, I just didn't want to waste it for this application

 

[kmead]

Indeed! I do have one left, I just didn't want to waste it for this application

There’s another one on Ebay, 9 bucks plus shipping seems a bit dear…

 

[lookforjoe]

Fixed it!

First I checked the ECT (cold, 70ºF) - 2160 ohms at the sensor

at the ECU : 2180 ohms

Normal OP temp 263 ohms. Values within normal range according to Datsun chart

I could swap it out for a Volvo one - & make it fatter when cold.... Might need to do that depending on how the cold starts are now.

Anyway, after that I went back to thinking about what could cause the hunting. I realized that when I did the TPS trigger signal, I didn't confirm that the relay I added had diode protection to prevent interference with the stock circuitry. I simply added a diode inline from the TPS to the relay to test the operation.

With that in place, the hunting at 2.5K went away. So that aspect was resolved (YAY!). The system still runs lean though. I don't know if all the cleaning out of coking in the TB & clearing other passages has made it leaner. I certainly didn't feel the lean running condition before I started all the mods. I looked at the AFM adjustment, and that made no meaningful difference.

Manifold vacuum at idle is good.

Regulated Fuel pressure is good

While I cogitated on how to address this, I added the AC switch plate

and added carpet mat stays

So, I decided that instead of futzing with the AFM to try & tweak the AFR's 2 whole points richer, I decided to just raise the regulated pressure to 3bar - using a Volvo regulator of course As you can see form the video above, that brought the AFR's right where they need to be.

new regulated fuel pressure under vacuum. Rises to 3bar with vacuum removed.

Having confirmed the pressure is consistent & vacuum works I installed a nylon feed line & quick connect in the intake. Old FPR location is bridged with new hose above it.

Bay

Now I know the system is fully operational, I will revise the return setup, it is overly long - didn't want to cut down the hose that had to connect to the rail return until I knew it would work.

 

[lookforjoe]

There’s another one on Ebay, 9 bucks plus shipping

hmm.. do you have a link? Not seeing it

 

[kmead]

hmm.. do you have a link? Not seeing it

Nine bucks. There was a guy in NY state I bought several from https://www.ebay.com/str/jsvolvoparts his were cheaper, he doesn’t have any right now.

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[lookforjoe]

So, I shouldn't have declared it resolved.
Started fine cold, but as the engine warmed, pretty quickly the AFR's climbed back into the 16 range, so it would seem possible that there is an issue with the ECT.
I tried plugging in a Volvo ECT, and with it pressed against the t/stat housing the AFR's were where I wanted them to be - 14.5-7 range at idle, so I swapped it out after the engine cooled. With it installed in the cooling system, the AFR's went even leaner. I'll order a new ECT, just to safe. I'm going to have to investigate a thorough functional test of the AFM also.

 

[lookforjoe]

I changed the oil, drilled & tapped the drain plug to 1/8" NPT & fitted the oil temp probe & ran the wire to the harness plug
Also had the Mrs help me finish bleeding the clutch, and doing so blew out the slave, so that's on order

- forgot to take a pic while I was underneath