Alain - The Red Scorpion
True Classic
Thx. Found it and it's OK
EI Distributors - too good to be true?
- Thread starter Jeff Stich
- Start date
Alain - The Red Scorpion
True Classic
Yes, moving
Alain - The Red Scorpion
True Classic
Further testing -
Ignition: there is spark
Fuel pump and filter: both OK
Injection system ground wire on valve cover: yes, connected
Injector plugs: battery voltage at both connectors with ignition ON.
Injector testing with test light (and voltage meter): there is no flicker when I crank the engine. Does this mean the injectors are not getting signal from the ECU and that the ECU is bad? Could it me something else? How do you test the ECU?
Ignition: there is spark
Fuel pump and filter: both OK
Injection system ground wire on valve cover: yes, connected
Injector plugs: battery voltage at both connectors with ignition ON.
Injector testing with test light (and voltage meter): there is no flicker when I crank the engine. Does this mean the injectors are not getting signal from the ECU and that the ECU is bad? Could it me something else? How do you test the ECU?
KBabcock
True Classic
Get the FI trouble shooting document, I believe its available on this web site. It will run through a complete testing of the FI systems to pin point the problem. Its the best way to start getting answers on the FI. If you want the PDF file and can't find it I can send it to you.
If every thing was fine before the start button install I think that is the place to concentrate looking. I don't believe in coincidence.
Good luck, I've been down this path.
ng_randolph
Bjorn H
The pulses are rather short, so you might not be able to see any flicker with an incandescent test light. I would suggest getting a noid light for this.
If the injectors are are not receiving any pulses it certainly could be an ECU problem, but just as likely (and much cheaper to fix) the ECU isn't receiving pulses from the coil primary. I know you checked the piggyback connector on the coil, but it might be with lookin at this again. Does it make good contact, any breaks in the wire etc.
Alain - The Red Scorpion
True Classic
kmead
Old enough to know better
Yes it may be possible as it can make it run rich. This is a very common 124 FI issue, they run like crap if the sensor or its wiring goes bad. I can’t say I have heard of it causing the engine to suddenly shut down.
Alain - The Red Scorpion
True Classic
I tested resistance as indicated in FI Guide. I get 2900 ohms which means that the sensor is OK. Also tested Air Flow sensor, as per Guide:
Terminal 6 to 8: 330 ohms.
Terminal 7 to 8: 265 ohms.
Terminal 8 to 9 193 ohms.
Guide says: Terminal 6 to 8: not more than 600 ohms. Terminal 7 to 8: not more than 1200 ohms. Terminal 8 to 9 350 ohms. So I guess, I'm OK?
Next, how do I test the Dual Relay?
kmead
Old enough to know better
These PDFs cover what it does. Not really a debugger but knowing what it is supposed to do helps figure out what it is not doing.
Alain - The Red Scorpion
True Classic
No-start problem solved. The timing belt had jumped 4 teeth... Changed the belt, aligned crank and camshaft and distributor. After some cranking the engine started and is running smoothly. Why did it jump? Don't know, but I'll keep a close eye and will re-ajust tension in a few days. Thank you all for your input.
kmead
Old enough to know better
I was happy to see the overall problem was found and resolved. Unusual to have one jump.
Tightening the belt, rotating the engine through a few cycles, rechecking the timing marks, then loosening the tensioner nut, give the tensioner spring piston a push and then retightening should keep it tight until it is time for replacement.
Was the washer properly seated in the tensioner idler bearing?