Engine Test Stand and Rebuild Project

An engine stand for an X engine could be really simple. You only need to touch the engine at three points so it could be as simple as two primary posts on a base of four beams with the four casters. I like the idea of it being modular or two different stand alone assemblies, one for the engine/transmission and another to hold the ancillary support of fuel, electric, cooling and monitoring. A few of these look way overbuilt for what is needed and likely impedes working on the engine.

Looking forward to seeing where this goes.
 
Do you really need a transaxle hooked up? All you need is a support for the starter and wouldn't an empty bellhousing work?
 
carl said:
Do you really need a transaxle hooked up? All you need is a support for the starter and wouldn't an empty bellhousing work?
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Our plan is to get the "drivetrain" running and tuned and then move it straight from the test rack, right to the car. Plus, the only extra bellhousing I have has a transmission attached to it! :cool:
 
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The project has commenced! Base frame built (48"x32"). As you see, right behind it is a bare block/transmission sitting 8" off the floor, will make the supports from that. Then the fully built engine in top left of picture will be transferred to the new stand.
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davejake said:
The project has commenced! Base frame built (48"x32"). As you see, right behind it is a bare block/transmission sitting 8" off the floor, will make the supports from that. Then the fully built engine in top left of picture will be transferred to the new stand.
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Nice. And fully able to be knocked down if needed for storage. Looking forward to seeing the rest. And to you making one for me. :p
 
Dr.Jeff said:
Nice. And fully able to be knocked down if needed for storage. Looking forward to seeing the rest. And to you making one for me. :p
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Yes, attached to angle iron then bolted together. Definitely break it down for storage. Also cross beams movable for different engines. (Although we have 4 1500s to rebuild first!)
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If/when the time comes to adapt it to another type of engine (requiring different mounting), will you make new cross beams and weld the engine supports solid? Or will the engine supports also be bolted onto those cross beams so they can be changed out?
 
Dr.Jeff said:
If/when the time comes to adapt it to another type of engine (requiring different mounting), will you make new cross beams and weld the engine supports solid? Or will the engine supports also be bolted onto those cross beams so they can be changed out?
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The cross bars will come out for sure. Still debating one whether to bolt or weld the engine mounts to the cross bars.
 
davejake said:
Still debating one whether to bolt or weld the engine mounts to the cross bars.
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Ya, that was what I was wondering. As you can tell from my questions, I'm thinking how I might build one.

I think it would good to make everything removable. A few bolts will be more than secure for its purpose. And overall it will offer more flexibility and make it smaller to store. Who knows, you might even decide to change how it is laid out and this will make things easier to redo.

One thing I like to do is weld nuts on one side of attachment points (like a "captured" nut). That way it is very simple to assemble or disassemble with one wrench - only needing to install/remove the bolt half. Less fiddling while still a very 'knock down' design, Ikea style. :p I also like to slot some mounting holes to allow for adjustments where it might be beneficial.
 
Another day of our Design-on-the-Fly Test stand.

1. realized the frame needed to be 2" higher to clear the engine hoist. (picture 1)
2. Forgot the engine sits at a 11 degree tilt, which solved the problem of the exhaust header hitting the frame. (picture 2)
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Looking great. Just a thought, make sure none of the mounts for the engine will interfere with any parts/accessories needed to run the engine (pulleys, alt, oil filter, whatever).
 
Something else to think about, for the mount just under the dist. It covers up the oil pressure gauge sender boss. It wouldn't be an issue on later engines that don't have that boss drilled and tapped, but if you ever plan to run an engine that has that boss drilled, you'll have to plug it before you start it up.
BTW, that boss is located in a very good place to monitor oil pressure to the crank main bearings.
 
After a couple more days of work, the engine in mounted! Angles all look good. The bracket under the alternator will need to be trimmed. Not crazy about our Transmission support (picture 4), but it works!
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Our transmission mount... not sure I like, it but couldn't think of a better way:

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Transmission mount looks to be great as far as I can see. I'm a little tempted to utilize all of the factory mounts somehow.

Do you happen to have close ups, or in process pics of the front two mounts - to show more detail? I'd like to see how you did them.
 
Did you consider using the OE crossmember to attach the transmission mount to? So then the cross member would be the element actually attached to the stand.

All in all it looks good to me as you have it. Welds look good. Nice work.
 
That style of metal gas can is really rare anymore!

Nice job getting it going. 😁

You'll have to review your MegaSquirt setup and we can compare notes. Mine also has a Ford trigger wheel and pickup, but with a VW coil.
 
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