Going for first fire

jvandyke

jvandyke

True Classic
Now that I have my starter starting. I'm hoping to go for ignition.
Car ran last year, PO said he had fuel supply issues.
Has oil
Turns over
new plugs
I'm planning on: putting in fresh gas, leaving the dizzy cap off, plugs out and cranking it for a bit while holding the air flappy dude open a bit and also seeing if oil pressure comes up, hopefully also pressurizing the FI while flushing gas through the system to get fresher stuff where it counts.
Putting plugs and dizzy back together and going for explosions (controlled ones, in the cylinders).
Sound alright? Is it enough to simply leave the dizzy cap laying off to the side while cranking (plug wires not touching or near anything conduction)? Don't want to anger the ignition system but don't really want spark until I've got some fuel pressure and oil pressure.
Or should I just button it all up and go for it all at once?
PO told me it ran and idled fine last year but wouldn't accelerate, trying to caused stumbling and stalling.
Could be bad gas, clogged filter, loss of pressure somewhere.....he put on a new fuel pump (didn't do a very neat job BTW).
 
How about a bottle of fuel system cleaner?

Couldn't hurt to add that to the fresh gas.

Good luck with the test fire! :)
 
I do have a partial can of SeaFoam on the shelf I can throw in there.
PO did pull the fuel rail and have professionally gone through to no effect but good have done anyway I suppose.
 
Can sea foam be used in the gas?

I thought it was just poured down the intake... which is almost but not quite the same thing. But if the can says it's ok, go for it.

Cleaning the fuel rail was likely futile since it is a wide passageway. When gas turns to gunk, it gets clogged up in the small passages. The pintle of the fuel injectors, for example. Pulling and cleaning those would have been a lot more useful, IMO. Still, cleaning the fuel rail certainly didn't hurt anything.

Pete
 
Hmm...

Me, I would just try and see if it runs.

I wouldn't just leave the dizzy cap off. I'd ground the coil wire somewhere else instead. I'm not sure about the X's Bosch ignition, but some ignitions can be damaged by removing the load from them.

If you want to flush the fuel rail, do the key-on, flap-open thing, and place a vacuum on the FPR. This will dump the fuel back to the tank via the return hose from the FPR.

Have you changed the fuel filter? Might be time to.
 
Pete Whitstone said:
I thought it was just poured down the intake... which is almost but not quite the same thing. But if the can says it's ok, go for it.

Cleaning the fuel rail was likely futile since it is a wide passageway. When gas turns to gunk, it gets clogged up in the small passages. The pintle of the fuel injectors, for example. Pulling and cleaning those would have been a lot more useful, IMO. Still, cleaning the fuel rail certainly didn't hurt anything.

Pete
Click to expand...

I've always just dumped SeaFoam in gas. Great stuff.
I meant to say he brought in all the injectors for cleaning.
I forgot about the pressurizing the FPS. Hmmmm time to get a hand pressurizer thingy I suppose.
I like the idea of flushing new gas into the system before even trying to fire it up.
So it's okay to pull the coil wire off the dizzy and ground the end to the chassis and crank away? I'm not very good with ignition systems, especially electronic ones, this new fangled stuff throws me.

OR
I can just see what happens first, hate fight bad gas and push dirt into clean injectors though. Hard to know, I like the easy way out but sure don't want to make problems for myself (there's enough challenges here already!)
 
I would just try to start it.

What would it hurt if it starts and runs? doesn't start and run? Either way, it's a little more risky trying to prevent spark than to just let it spark away and maybe start the engine. Just my :2c:

Good luck,:thumbsup:
 
Bosch Ignition.

If you don't want ignition, then unplug the pick up coil on the dizzy, Do not crank with the cap off as this can damage the ignition modual and if there is a fuel leak the stray spark will ignite it.

Personally I would just try and start it by cranking for 5 seconds wait 5 seconds and then try again until it starts. Do not crank for more than 2 minutes as you can over heat the starter.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
 
quest for fire

I buttoned up (all but air filter).
It started and ran for brief second. Runs for a few revolutions each time then quits. Quest for (more) fire continues. Tried a shot of starting fluid up the intake (held open flap and sprayed past. Ran a tad longer but quit. hmmmmm where to begin.....
 
That's exactly what mine was doing a couple weeks ago...

jvandyke said:
I buttoned up (all but air filter).
It started and ran for brief second. Runs for a few revolutions each time then quits. Quest for (more) fire continues. Tried a shot of starting fluid up the intake (held open flap and sprayed past. Ran a tad longer but quit. hmmmmm where to begin.....
Click to expand...

When I realized that I didn't have the hose between the AFM and the FI manifold connected. I would check all connections to the AFM carefully. Maybe test with a replacement unit, if you happen to have one handy.

Of course, there could be a million other causes. But it's one thing to check.

Pete
 
Only one plug to the AFS that I see, there is a connection sitting unconnnected near the injectors....could be PO put in wrong fuel pump....could a million things I guess.

Here is that connector.
notconnected.jpg
 
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that

is a test port that goes back to the computer so it gets hooked up to nothing pic 10375/10376 .
on pic SDC10378/10377 the thin green wire with the white connector is for A/C .the double green with red connector in it and yellow are connected together on my car I've never touched them I think it's for the A/C also the white one and kind of reddish orange I can't tell what its connected to in your pic but if it goes to the rubber black connector with two black wires coming out it probably traces back to a sensor ( revers switch) on the trans when working properly when in you put the car in reverse ( wail car is running ) the reverse light should come on.
whats up with 10379 looks fine?
pic 10380 ground wires clean them lube them (Dielectric grease ) your good to go
Buy a big bottle of it and start cleaning and lubing every connector and gound it will help now and in the future.
 
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By AFM I meant...

Air Flow Meter, the doggie door contraption. There should be a computer-looking connection to it. The main component in that picture is the TPS (throttle position sensor).

The thing I am talking about is connected to the other end of that big hose you can see in the left of the picture.

Pete
 
Yep, I know, That pic was about the "stray" wire, not in reference to the AFS. The one off the air cleaner housing is the AFS, right? It has one multi pin attachment is all I can see. I pulled if off, blew some dust out of the contacts, reattached. I undid and redid a bunch of connections (not nearly all). Runs for 1-3 seconds and quits. So many possibilities. I'll have to just start checking stuff I guess.
This is the AFS, can I smack it?
http://gallery.me.com/jvandyke#100348/SDC10379&bgcolor=black
 
Does the fuel pump run?

Turn the ignition to the "on" position (not "start") and open the AFM flap with your finger. Do you hear the fuel pump running?
 
We could be on to something, PO put in fuel pump. I noted it is not installed as per manual, not bracketed on it's side, up and down and the wiring down there looks suspect (thus the picture I took of it linked above). Pump comes on when key goes on regardless of the AFS door, I can feel gas moving in the fuel lines though. I was going to look for a number on that pump and maybe pull a line somewhere and see if gas will flow and under what kind of pressure, but I'm so dead tired from wrenching last night (this morning really) I think I'm taking the evening off.
Well, almost. I had to at look for a second or two. Here's some more shots of the weird wires and the pump which comes on with the key on first click, AFS door or no (which tells us?).
This pump is making a RACKET too, it is getting louder, maybe it is dragging up crap out of the tank. Should I drain the tank and see what comes out? Seems like a filter before the pump would be a good idea.
Here's some more shots.
It runs for a couple seconds every time, starting fluid sprayed past the door and it runs longer 4 seconds maybe.
Notice in the last few pics the wires zip tied together some of which go nowhere.
lostwires.jpg

This link is a bunch of pics.
http://gallery.me.com/jvandyke#100348/SDC10379&bgcolor=black
 
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I wonder

if the PO knew to use a fuel pump made for fuel injection, looks like a FI pump from what I can see... pump shouldn't run unless flap is open, and it's orientation shouldn't matter
 
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