Preparing For Dallara Body Kit

Are you running octane boost? I had a friend that went through a couple Bosch WB O2 due to that. The Booster said is was safe for the O2 sensors but Bosch did not agree. We never found out for sure because he along with several others in our group are using ECU Masters ECUs.
They seem to be hard on O2 sensors. I have had no problems, knock on wood, but some of the other guys have been through several O2 sensors. They are not using octane boosters. Go figure.
 
86X said:
Are you running octane boost? I had a friend that went through a couple Bosch WB O2 due to that. The Booster said is was safe for the O2 sensors but Bosch did not agree. We never found out for sure because he along with several others in our group are using ECU Masters ECUs.
They seem to be hard on O2 sensors. I have had no problems, knock on wood, but some of the other guys have been through several O2 sensors. They are not using octane boosters. Go figure.
Click to expand...

No, no additives. I don't know if it's related to the modified ECU. I'm using K-Tuner. With my Volvo C30, the tune overlay on that makes the O2 system sensitive - I get low output response CEL's with it a couple times a year, but with the Honda, it's a permanent CEL, and only replacing the O2 fixes it. This is the first time I've shelled out for the Honda-packaged one, so hopefully that's the end of it.

I was looking at the 2 tapes
The one I've been using is the paler one, marked 3M on the back
PXL_20231124_000806386.jpg

It is also more 'elastic' when stretched than the other version (warmer yellow, no marking) I guess I'll try it anyway.
PXL_20231124_000831975.jpg
 
On the ECU B there is a resistor mod you add to the O2 sensor that seems to help. If you think it may help I will find it for you.
 
86X said:
On the ECU B there is a resistor mod you add to the O2 sensor that seems to help. If you think it may help I will find it for you.
Click to expand...
That applies to the 05 generation RSX ECU 37820-PND-A63?

I would be interested, thank you.
Dr.Jeff said:
Any chance the location of the O2 sensor on your exhaust system may be playing a role in it's lifespan?
Click to expand...

I thought about that - however it is far enough downstream that it can't be getting cooked, which was the case with the original setup (shorty header, sensors at the collector). It's also mounted vertically, so no possible moisture issues from it sitting so much.
 
I redid much of the thin stripe today. Took about 3-4 hours to get the old stuff off & put the new on. Required constant heat application to get the tape soft enough to come off, but not so soft it tore instead of lifting (guess what happened mostly)

The non-3M tape is not as flexible, so I got wrinkles in the bends. I'm going to live with it for right now, just couldn't look at it as it was. I still need to redo the ladder bars

PXL_20231124_194818918.jpg


PXL_20231124_194826039.jpg



PXL_20231124_194831195.jpg


also finished the rear valance DEI heat shielding & installed that
PXL_20231124_155508764.jpg



PXL_20231124_163144308.jpg



PXL_20231124_203611133.jpg


Looking much better overall, tucked away for the evening now



PXL_20231124_203729203.jpg
 
If a resistor is added to the O2 sensor on any other ECU, then hopefully the O2 function can be recalibrated in the ECU/O2 controller because the added resistance will throw off its accuracy a little.
 
86X said:
I know it's a different ECU but perhaps it will be of some help.
Click to expand...

EMU is the EMS? I don't know how that insert ( resistor btwn 5+ and WBO Vs) relates to a factory ECU WBO2 circuit. I'll have to research it. Mine seems to get burned out, the signal to the ECU is what goes away. I can't recall the error code offhand, it's a Honda-specific code, not the 133 -137 lean or slow response codes

What is the "WBO Vs" input? O2 Voltage signal from the sensor?

EDIT: need to move this part of the conversation to the K24 build thread, I'm not going to be able to find it down the road, since this thread pertains to the Body Mods

LINK TO RE-POSTS
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 86X
lookforjoe said:
Finally, the X1/9 is home. I took care of the squirrelly front end - when I drove it to the bodyshop I knew something was wrong. The obvious thing was the DS radius rod was bent- not photographed well, however there is a distinct arc in it.

View attachment 78922

However I think what was more of an issue was the aft radius rod poly bushings were compressed to about an inch. The wheels were sitting too far forward, which presumably caused the 'float' I was feeling. Thankfully I had a pair to replace those, but the forward ones are soft by comparison, so when I tighten the rod nuts, the forward one compresses more than the aft.
Anyway, front end feels good now.

EDIT - ordered a set of rubber ones from MWB, these soft poly ones are not reliable on my setup.
View attachment 78923
Click to expand...
Replaced the poly with rubber ones from MWB today. Also borrowed a Toe Plate from a local garage & got a neighbor to assist with setting the toe.
PXL_20231129_203624726.jpg


My road is pretty darn level, so it worked out pretty well. The toe when checked was buried in. I had to go about a turn & a half in on the DS, and a turn in on the PS (after I realized I was increasing toe in the first set of adjutsments- forgot that since the rack is behind the wheels I needed to shorten the rods, not lengthen them). When I was done I got the steering wheel straight as well as less than a 1/8" toe in.

No pics, I broke my phone last Friday.
 
Last edited:
I was looking at this as it is, and thinking maybe I should just run the tape stripe down the fenders, and call it a day. However, looking at the pictures with vinyl on the nose, that nose tape section really helps define the front end, I think. So I'll have to make a new section, even though it is a pain in the butt 🤪
 
Installed the new frunk inner cable after school, fairly uneventful install. To access the lock screw on the latch, I had to remove the right cover mesh, undo the latch, & move it around some to get to the lock screw.
Today on my lunch break I ran the thin 3M tape down the fender, around the nose and back up to the pass door edge.
I think it looks OK without the wide stripe on the nose, at least I feel that way today....
PXL_20240313_144655071.jpg

After school I removed the spoiler, located the correct push pins & primed & painted them to match. I don't like them standing out more than necessary.
PXL_20240313_213034700~2.jpg

PXL_20240313_213034700.jpg

More tomorrow
 
I agree with you. It is looking more.... x19 that way. I just hope your next step is not going to put back the raising headlamps! 🤪
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top