Rebuilding a Series 2 Electrical System

I'm about to dive into this project as well,
Replacing my rat-nasty '81 harness with a similar '80.
I hastily printed out the couple of diagrams shown here,
But looking closer, the diagram has 12 fuses and my box 16.
How useful do you think this earlier diagram will be?
Did Fiat keep their color scheme consistent through the years?
Day24Wiring2.jpg
 
Clatter said:
I'm about to dive into this project as well,
Replacing my rat-nasty '81 harness with a similar '80.
I hastily printed out the couple of diagrams shown here,
But looking closer, the diagram has 12 fuses and my box 16.
How useful do you think this earlier diagram will be?
Did Fiat keep their color scheme consistent through the years?
View attachment 81045
Click to expand...
For '80 and '81, download the Electrical Diagnostic Manual from the electrical section of the Wiki. The older wiring diagrams you have are missing all the L-Jetronic wiring among other things.
 
This is NOT for the faint of heart ...
I did this about 10 years ago and am including instructions for adding Fuel injection wiring into a non injected system HERE.
No schematic diagram is included (or necessary) BUT you will need a Fuel Injection Harness and all the fixin's that go along with it. (such as fuel lines installed to accommodate the FI system, Bosch ECM, Air-Fuel meter module, injector rail, plenum, air intake hoses, 4 Injectors, Cold Start Injector, Throttle position sensor, Knock Sensor, and Crankcase Fume emissions Valve just to name a few.) :p
If you already have these things, then the noted instruction to add it to a non-FI system will be helpful for you.

Also, if you plan on wiring the headlights "from scratch", THIS might be of help to you if you want to use a rotary or 3-position switch:
(Uses 4 SPDT relays to simulate a stock 3-position X1/9 dash switch)
Rotary Headlight Switch Replacement.png

Also, if you plan on wiring the headlight pods from scratch, this might also help.
Front Lighting Schematic_sm.jpg
 
Clatter said:
I'm about to dive into this project as well,
Replacing my rat-nasty '81 harness with a similar '80.
I hastily printed out the couple of diagrams shown here,
But looking closer, the diagram has 12 fuses and my box 16.
How useful do you think this earlier diagram will be?
Did Fiat keep their color scheme consistent through the years?
View attachment 81045
Click to expand...
I would use the correct diagram. You can get the correct diagram set either from me as a PDF or off of www.mirafiori.com as a member there in the library.

There are similarities in early and late wiring systems but sadly things are indeed different. There are three early systems and three late systems. 74, then 75-77, 78 and then 1979/80, late 80 early81 to early 85 and then 85-end of production. As they added equipment they added more relays and of course circuits. The FI and electronic ignition systems are largely standalone separate systems with a new power feed in the case of the FI system.

I would change from the torpedo fuses to a later Lada block which you can get from Ladapower which is a Ukrainian company operating out of Lithuania due to the war. There is a good how to for changing to a new fuse block in the BOX threads.
 
kmead said:
I would change from the torpedo fuses to a later Lada block which you can get from Ladapower which is a Ukrainian company operating out of Lithuania due to the war. There is a good how to for changing to a new fuse block in the BOX threads
Click to expand...
? pretty sure that BOX stuff only relates to Series 1 cars that have the very basic system with fuse box near the steering column? Clatter is starting with an 81 and stepping it back to 80 so has and will have the Series 2 under passenger side box. That fuse block is a bit complicated as there are many more out wires than in wires - many short jumper buses on input side. I reckon it is X specific.
 
Steve Thomas said:
? pretty sure that BOX stuff only relates to Series 1 cars that have the very basic system with fuse box near the steering column? Clatter is starting with an 81 and stepping it back to 80 so has and will have the Series 2 under passenger side box. That fuse block is a bit complicated as there are many more out wires than in wires - many short jumper buses on input side. I reckon it is X specific.
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Yes it is X specific particularly with the two shorty fuses.

The principle is the same regardless of which of the early or later boxes one is upgrading aside from the 85 up box. He has the late 80 box which still uses spades on the back so an appropriately sized block can be used, it may need some fiddling to fit but will be much more reliable compared to what he has now which looks decidedly groty. All the boxes have fewer inputs as compared to the outputs so there are always jumpers to link fuses to distribute the power across the fuses. Adding an additional power input from the battery wouldn’t hurt anything either along with a smattering of relays to improve delivery as well.

It will be some work without doubt.
 
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kmead said:
jumpers to link fuses to distribute the power across the fuses.
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Yes, these are integral bus bars tho - not jumper wires. So if we use a non-X fuse block, we will have top add actual jumper wires. I am inclined to just keep the torpedo fuses.
 
Steve Thomas said:
Yes, these are integral bus bars tho - not jumper wires. So if we use a non-X fuse block, we will have top add actual jumper wires. I am inclined to just keep the torpedo fuses.
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That’s a choice. That is what is shown in the BOX example. It’s a suggestion of one way to do an upgrade to a more reliable and available fuse solution.
 
kmead said:
That’s a choice. That is what is shown in the BOX example. It’s a suggestion of one way to do an upgrade to a more reliable and available fuse solution.
Click to expand...
Certainly more available but I don't see reliability as a problem. The fuses themselves are not the issue - the loom and circuit design is. But with the relay mods, that becomes OK. I would happily use a Lada blade block if it had enough fuses regardless of the bus situation. But a Series 2 (or Aus Series 1.5] type needs 16 fuses [plus those idiotic inline fuses] so the Lada 13 fuse block does not do the job.
 
Steve Thomas said:
Certainly more available but I don't see reliability as a problem. The fuses themselves are not the issue - the loom and circuit design is. But with the relay mods, that becomes OK. I would happily use a Lada blade block if it had enough fuses regardless of the bus situation. But a Series 2 (or Aus Series 1.5] type needs 16 fuses [plus those idiotic inline fuses] so the Lada 13 fuse block does not do the job.
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Actually the fuses are a pain to acquire here and the contacts they mate to are often corroded with poor contact due to losing their spring pressure. There are other fuse blocks available which have the needed number of fuses. I mistakenly recalled Ladapower having a larger than 13 fuse assembly.

A thirteen fuse block could work if one split up some of the circuits off such as moving the headlights and wipers to relays mounted in the frunk with their fuses in a smaller block to get well below the Lada max…

We need not be entirely slavish to our Italian masters from 40 years ago :)
 
kmead said:
Actually the fuses are a pain to acquire here and the contacts they mate to are often corroded with poor contact due to losing their spring pressure. There are other fuse blocks available which have the needed number of fuses. I mistakenly recalled Ladapower having a larger than 13 fuse assembly.

A thirteen fuse block could work if one split up some of the circuits off such as moving the headlights and wipers to relays mounted in the frunk with their fuses in a smaller block to get well below the Lada max…

We need not be entirely slavish to our Italian masters from 40 years ago :)
Click to expand...
Oh yeah :) Couple of mine will be seriously deviant! Many more fuses in total as I do not like fuse sharing.
 
Been working on the loom that runs alongside the tunnel between the fuse box and the engine firewall. This had been damaged during removal - somebody pulled hard when it got caught on one of those sheet metal tags designed to hold it in place [I assume]. Some cut wires, some abraded etc. Cutting out the damage, butt splice crimp, heatshrink, next... Plenty of length spare. But, along the way, I have decided to reconfigure the carby fan power feed. This is presently a decent sized azure wire that runs from the relay in the back of the car all the way to the fuse box where it gets power [eventually] via a jumper to a direct battery feed [when I say "direct" - via the dreaded 4 way brown wire connector]. A lot of wire that is redundant. I will put a fuse in next to the relay and run the azure wire through that to the positive feed to the starter. This will improve the voltage at the fan as power will come via the starter feed which is a big lead to the battery. And I take out a couple of meters of wire... Also get a spare fuse in the main fuse box. Yes - I will be putting an updated schematic in the glovebox!
 
Another change I am doing. Aside from the fuses in the fuse block [item 24 in image], I have an inline fuse [item 23 in image].
1707109763121.png
This inline 8A fuse supplies/protects cigar lighter, clock, radio antenna and courtesy light. It receives power from a connection to a bus bar on the in side of the main fuse block. That bus connects to the dreaded brown wire connector. All good. But notice that fuse slots O and P in the main fuse block, attached to the same bus, are not in use. So, delete the inline fuse [I hate inline fuses] and connect to the out side of fuse slot P [or O] and insert an 8A fuse, I get this.
1707110230847.png
Which is functionally identical - but less wire, easier fault finding :)
 
kmead said:
A thirteen fuse block could work if one split up some of the circuits off such as moving the headlights and wipers to relays mounted in the frunk with their fuses in a smaller block to get well below the Lada max…
Click to expand...
As it turns out... I am going to relocate the entire fuse box to the frunk and engine bay. Most in the frunk in a FIAT looking box right next to the battery and a few items in another box in the engine bay. So, yes, I will be using the Lada blocks :)
 
Steve Thomas said:
As it turns out... I am going to relocate the entire fuse box to the frunk and engine bay. Most in the frunk in a FIAT looking box right next to the battery and a few items in another box in the engine bay. So, yes, I will be using the Lada blocks :)
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Are there other products in your market? There are a number of integrated fuse block with relay mountings integrated which could make your ultimate goal easier.
 
OK - some progress to report. I have designed and printed the prototype electrical box. It sits on the bulkhead next to the battery box. I found a source of new relay bases that match the originals and the fuse box is set up so that up to 12 of those clip in. It also carries 4 by 6 fuse holder blocks giving a maximum of 24 fuses. The original flasher can for the handbrake light and the wiper delay relay clip on too. The box is a 3 part design. There is the armature [the structural part], a lid and a lower cover. Have only printed the armature so far. Just in PLA so I can finalise the wiring.

The part as designed in Solid Edge:
1713393507831.png

And in progress on the printer:
20240417_214326.jpg
And held in place with bluetac in the car :). One relay base clipped in and one fuse block too.
20240418_082053.jpg
The dots are WIP on scanning the frunk. The armature will bolt on in 4 places using nutserts.
 
Ah man I just started from scratch cos the loom had been messed with but no power/relay mods had been done, the main problems were working out how the switches worked. I relayed everything going through anything even vaguely switchy.

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There was some messing with the pod motors to get them to work properly, but all works well now
 
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