RED X19

mkmini said:
FYI
First issues showing up with my rear mounted radiator.
As I have a digital gauge from ECU..
On 1hour 30min drive at ~90km/h ~3000rpm, coolant temperature started to grow up very slowly, when it reached 94*C, slowed down to ~70km/h to let it cool.
It was ~ +15*C outside.

On the next week am planning to open right side scoop.

Summer is coming.. if these scoops won’t help on highway then will have to move radiator to the front.

I guess that already can start to be prepared for that :D
Click to expand...
temerature climbing slowly at sustained speed is generally indicative of a partially blocked / less than efficient radiator...

I always wondered why you chose to move all that weight to the very rear of the car , in a vehicle that already has a substantial rearward weight bias, it wasnt to improve the handling of the car that's for sure....

fibreglass skins glued / bonded to the steel frames of the bonnet / boot / doors would be quite easy provided the thickness of the fibreglass was quite uniform, and not all that uncommon to glue / bond panels with an adhesive in modern cars

the doors, i.e. door frames / hinges and locking assemblies are generally considered "structural" parts and I doubt you'd get approval to make substanstial changes to the frames. They have a BIG intrusion bar in there.

20190716_134130.jpg


SteveC
 
Last edited:
Fiberglass could be as easier option. But my X is not about easy and beautiful 😂 I don’t know about what it is.

@fiatfactory I moved radiator at the rear, because at the time when I did it, was too lazy to route new pipes to the front, and thought that it is not bad idea. This was and is first car on which I’m learning how things works and how can I ruin them :D before this my experience with cars was mostly driving, once changed headgasket on Mini..
Thanks for the picture, it makes me reconsider modification of the doors, that construction is more complicated(better) than imagined.

I should start with making a list what I have to fix and when, and what amount of money it will take 😬.
 
Few days ago fixed fuel level sender. Hade to take off intake pipe between Intercooler and manifold.
One thing made me suspicious. It was absolutely dry, not even a sign of an oil. That turbo is old and no even refurbished.

Maybe there is oil in the lowest elbow between IC and turbo :D, like siphon under a sink haha
 
AND another thing.
Wires that are connected to the fuel pump, looks that are not petrol compatible. Isolation was a bit soft and swollen 😬
 
mkmini said:
Few days ago fixed fuel level sender. Hade to take off intake pipe between Intercooler and manifold.
One thing made me suspicious. It was absolutely dry, not even a sign of an oil. That turbo is old and no even refurbished.

Maybe there is oil in the lowest elbow between IC and turbo :D, like siphon under a sink haha
Click to expand...
From what I've heard, when the turbo leaks oil internally, the intercooler will collect a lot of the oil. But I agree with you, it seems the pipes would have some oil also. Eventually it gets into the intake manifold and the engine smokes really bad out the exhaust pipe. So maybe your turbo isn't that worn?
 
On my UR-S4 (2.2liter 20v turbo 5cy), with 300k miles on it, running 22psi of boost since 50k miles, there was always a film of oil in the intake, but not enough to add oil in 5k mile oil changes. (also, that was with relatively thin oil (5w30)).

Dunno what may be happening with yours, but I always viewed that oil as good intake valve lubrication.
 
Kevin B (Asheville NC) said:
On my UR-S4 (2.2liter 20v turbo 5cy), with 300k miles on it, running 22psi of boost since 50k miles, there was always a film of oil in the intake, but not enough to add oil in 5k mile oil changes. (also, that was with relatively thin oil (5w30)).

Dunno what may be happening with yours, but I always viewed that oil as good intake valve lubrication.
Click to expand...
Wow, with 300K miles on the engine and 22psi boost to it for 250K, that is really good. ;)
 
Dr.Jeff said:
Wow, with 300K miles on the engine and 22psi boost to it for 250K, that is really good. ;)
Click to expand...
The old 5cyl Audi's were beasts. In overboost, you could briefly get 2.8psi of boost.

I have several friends still driving these with excessive boost levels with 300 to 400k miles on the engine.

I never had to pull the head, and was running an RS2 level compressor for those 250k miles. Never had to pull the turbo after installing.

350+hp out of the 2.2 liter was no issue and caused no abnormal wear on the engine.

Heck, I never replaced the clutch in that car either.
 
Kevin B (Asheville NC) said:
The old 5cyl Audi's were beasts. In overboost, you could briefly get 2.8psi of boost.

I have several friends still driving these with excessive boost levels with 300 to 400k miles on the engine.

I never had to pull the head, and was running an RS2 level compressor for those 250k miles. Never had to pull the turbo after installing.

350+hp out of the 2.2 liter was no issue and caused no abnormal wear on the engine.

Heck, I never replaced the clutch in that car either.
Click to expand...
Seems unlikely you could do that with a SOHC. :p
 
Today here was some “distance safe” meetup, I’m not a person who can enjoy these “car&coffee” kind of things. Not a fan of small talks, so drive through a parking lot to see other’s cars and disappeared :D
If anyone is interested- in the link small part of Latvian old cars. *for one Testarossa less here, played too far in the rain yesterday

www.facebook.com

🇱🇻Klasisko, Youngtimer, PSRS - auto, moto, velo diskusijas | Youngtimer Rally 2021 | Facebook

Youngtimer Rally 2021
www.facebook.com www.facebook.com

I guess they have never seen a car with paintjob like that in person 😂

9761F668-81B6-4E3D-A7FD-DF92A6A5C284.jpeg
 
mkmini said:
Today here was some “distance safe” meetup, I’m not a person who can enjoy these “car&coffee” kind of things. Not a fan of small talks, so drive through a parking lot to see other’s cars and disappeared :D
If anyone is interested- in the link small part of Latvian old cars. *for one Testarossa less here, played too far in the rain yesterday

www.facebook.com

🇱🇻Klasisko, Youngtimer, PSRS - auto, moto, velo diskusijas | Youngtimer Rally 2021 | Facebook

Youngtimer Rally 2021
www.facebook.com www.facebook.com

I guess they have never seen a car with paintjob like that in person 😂

View attachment 46815
Click to expand...
Nice collection of cars. I love the early MB's and BMW's. Especially with European trim. Here they are ugly with the big bumpers, etc. And I always laugh when I see American cars in Europe. To me they are complete junk, so I never understand why Europeans like them. I guess just because they are different there.
 
Just thinking loud:
For example if I would make a 3d model of UT exhaust manifold and also make a 3d model of the tubular manifold I have in mind.
After that compare flow simulation in Solidworks. Haven’t tried that simulation yet as have had no need to check chairs for the flow 😅 .what is the bad and good things I will see there? if flow is red at some points then it’s bad?
 
Last edited:
I think you can assign any colors to represent whatever you wish to view. The point is to see the change in values as you alter the design. So looking at color changes (for any colors assigned) you can see if it is improving or not. I'm sure there are also much more detailed and sophisticated levels to this if desired.
 
BMW E90 330XD lost between stoplights, twice 😂

Now in 5th gear when flooring clutch is slipping 😅

Should I look for some “performance” ones? @Bjorn Nilson how much did Your cost?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top