RED X19
- Thread starter Janis
- Start date
Janis
True Classic
That’s Polo
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
Ha, I missed that, thanks. We never got the Polo so I forget it exists. The early ones appear to share the Golf's front end. Especially when custom changes have been made they look the same from the front...compare it with the Golf behind it. 
Now that I think about it, I don't recall ever seeing a picture of a Polo wagon/estate. Did all of the early ones have that square back end? Or is this a rare Polo?
Now that I think about it, I don't recall ever seeing a picture of a Polo wagon/estate. Did all of the early ones have that square back end? Or is this a rare Polo?
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
I would just make sure there are no "burrs" or sharp edges on the edge (red arrow in pic below). You will feel them with your finger (take caution not to cut/slice your finger, the edge can be very sharp). Maybe a very light touch with some fine emery cloth (abrasive paper) by hand, only around the very edge of the bore if needed. Otherwise a burr can cause a hot spot and detonation.
Janis
True Classic
Unfortunately radiator which I had in the rear was exactly 2cm too long to fit in the front.
Bought some aluminum Nisse that is meant for Golf mk3, well spent 30€.
And that new radiator fits vw fans I have. One electric, the other is belt driven from first. That is good I guess because am going to make ducting to wheel wells, so both will always get same amount of air. At beginning they will exit only in wheel wells, if that won’t be enough then will make extra exits through bonnet.
I have little dilemma what tubes to use under the car- stainless or aluminum ones?
They will be bent with mandrel, so that point is absolutely not a problem.
I guess salty winters could eat up aluminum fast.
Bought some aluminum Nisse that is meant for Golf mk3, well spent 30€.
And that new radiator fits vw fans I have. One electric, the other is belt driven from first. That is good I guess because am going to make ducting to wheel wells, so both will always get same amount of air. At beginning they will exit only in wheel wells, if that won’t be enough then will make extra exits through bonnet.
I have little dilemma what tubes to use under the car- stainless or aluminum ones?
They will be bent with mandrel, so that point is absolutely not a problem.
I guess salty winters could eat up aluminum fast.
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
Excellent choice for a new radiator.
That is a great delima to have, stainless or aluminum for the tubes. I'd use stainless. Normally that big of S/S would be difficult to work with, but you have the equipment available to do it. Aluminum is lighter but won't last as long. How long it lasts depends in part on the water and antifreeze you use; if pure distilled water and a high concentration of excellent anticorrosion antifreeze is used then aluminum will work. However even then aluminum is more prone to electrolysis, which will also eat through it eventually.
That is a great delima to have, stainless or aluminum for the tubes. I'd use stainless. Normally that big of S/S would be difficult to work with, but you have the equipment available to do it. Aluminum is lighter but won't last as long. How long it lasts depends in part on the water and antifreeze you use; if pure distilled water and a high concentration of excellent anticorrosion antifreeze is used then aluminum will work. However even then aluminum is more prone to electrolysis, which will also eat through it eventually.
Janis
True Classic
~3cm or a bit longer would also fit https://www.amazon.com/Nissen-651931-Nissens-Radiator-N1651931/dp/B00CKQ1W8Q
Now have to figure out how to make air bleeder in it or in the top pipe
Now have to figure out how to make air bleeder in it or in the top pipe
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
I'd have to dig out my notes to confirm, but I think that one is a little taller than the earlier (Mk1 and Mk2) VW's. If someone wanted to replace a stock X rad without too much modification to the mounts, the shorter version (earlier VW's) might be a little easier to install. I know in your case it will be a custom installation anyway, so best to get the biggest rad you can fit. I just wanted to comment about the height for anyone else that may consider doing a rad swap. I like these rads for a affordable upgrade on the X.
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
Those plastic tanks are difficult to modify. They can crack when trying to drill/tap a hole. And sometimes it is hard to keep it from leaking afterwards. Maybe the bleeder can be fitted into the top hose with one of these:
I know you want to get it done now, and not sure if one of those adaptors is available locally. But they are very inexpensive online. Perhaps for now just bleed by loosening the hose, and add the adapter/bleeder when it arrives?
I know you want to get it done now, and not sure if one of those adaptors is available locally. But they are very inexpensive online. Perhaps for now just bleed by loosening the hose, and add the adapter/bleeder when it arrives?
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
Ok, I see what you mean in the pics. I was thinking the radiator would be mounted at a different angle or flipped over - with the hoses pointing more upward than downward. Glad you were able to get a bleeder in the tank without damage.
I also see in the pics how well this larger, later style VW unit fills the big opening you made. That will offer a lot of excellent cooling.
Just for anyone else that considers a VW radiator swap, some of the earlier style VW ones have a small hose nipple at the top of the tank for the overflow bottle. With one of those rads that little nipple can be connected to a bleeder. They are the smaller sized radiators that have been discussed in other threads about using a VW unit in the stock location.