Slow going today. All I got done was the bearing & spindle/hub assembly, and a couple odds & ends.
Besides pressing the outer bearing onto the spindle first, I didn't find the FSM particularly helpful in terms of assembly directions. It is important to only apply pressure to the side of the race being inserted, to prevent bearing damage, but I couldn't see anyway to press the spindle with bearing into the hub that didn't involve applying load to the inner race as well. I ended up just tapping the outer flange evenly around the circumference to seat the outer race of the outer bearing in the hub. To install the inner bearing in the hub and on the spindle, I just used the old bearing, so both inner & outer races were loaded evenly.
Before I did any assembly I did another dry run with the old bearings to determine if I needed to cut it down to clear the CV. I did need to. Took the nuts off, cut off the shoulder.
Reassembled. Clearance is good here - about a 1mm off the CV inner cup
Both distance pieces were marked B
pressing the inner bearing, after greasing the backside of the inner & outer bearing cavities & installing distance piece. Used an old camber plate from my 98 XC to apply load to inner & outer races, and still clear the spline shaft
#2
inner grease seal going in. It is pressed all the way in, according to the FSM diagram , just doesn't look like the lip is going to have much surface contact with the inner hub flange
I then torqued the nut to 195ft/lbs. drag feels even, no end play. I have no way of measuring 3.9in/lb. My 1/4" drive Snap-on torque wrench is not accurate below 10in/lb
I had notched the nuts, so I could tack weld them to the spindle without creating a weld- mound that would interfere with the CV cup clearance.
#1 welded. In the unlikely event I ever need to remove them again, I can cut the tack weld as easily as cutting the stake shoulders of the original
#2
I found the wheel studs I bought for the rear were actually 2.25", not 2" as listed. Test fit the spindle with a rotor to check depth. I had to cut them down to 2" or the wheel nuts won't seat
after
Another catch - with the larger OD CV flange, clearance off the Strut cast base is an issue - I had looked at that, but without it being assembled, there was no way to be certain what would be best approach. I opted to use press-studs, similar to wheel studs, just M10x1.5
They were longer than needed, so I trimmed about 1/4" off, as assembly on the car may become an clearance issue
cut
After that I test fit the MilkFab brake caliper brackets & swapped out the eBrake as per their instructions.
parts removed
MilkFab eBrake bracket positioned, cable levers reversed L/R as per their instructions
checked offset with a rotor, everything looks good
Going to be out of town until next Friday, so have to wait to get it all back in the car.