Steering rack bushing failure mode?

[carl]

What is the typical failure mode for these plastic bushings? I have the rack on the work bench and the boot removed. I don't see any pieces of the bushing but I do see what might be the bushing pushed further into the housing tube. Do the locating tabs break and the bushing just gets pushed in? If that's the case, how do you remove it or do you just leave it and install a new one? If you can pull it back into it's proper position has anyone used screws or other externally applied fasteners to relocate the old bushing in it's proper place?

I have not yet tried to loosen and remove the universal joint from the steering rack, the last time I tried this on another X I could not get it loose. The universal is not a reverse thread, right?

 

[128kid]

Usually they crumble. If run low on lube maybe just wear ovalized. If the tabs broke it may have been installed backwards (the tabs should be on the outboard side, so the bushing sits recessed a few mm).

Definitely remove old bits before installing the new bushing. I don't think there would be enough room for two... and it's the right thing to do... Screwdrivers, picks, whatever you can slip in there to persuade it out. Usually once you get the bushing where you can see it through the "ear holes" you can work it out from there. Otherwise pull the inner tie rod, then remove the pinion and remove the rack. Then you can easily get at the bushing and clean out any debris.

 

[carl]

As you can see from the picture it was a locating tab failure. I was able to get it slid out and the bushing on the table is a new one for comparison. If I can't get the universal joint loose then I'm definitely going to just reuse the old bushing with some externally applied fastener in the tab holes, probably a very shallow screw.

 

[Rupunzell]

There will be bits of bushing plastic inside the rack. Those plastic bits should be removed or they can get jammed-stuck between the rack and pinion gear cause a moderate to deadly steering problem.

2011, did a write up on work on this rack. This images are gone but text remains useful. Do not try removing the pinion gear cover without cutting off the four staked areas on the cap. Doing so will destroy the threads and cap.
https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/steering-rack-project-part-2.12238/#post-92908

Threaded or similar fasteners to keep the bushing in place are likely to work loose with the bushing becoming loose then floating on the rack gear. Take the time and effort to install the bushing properly or this will be a repeat and more. Does not mean split the bushing to ease installation. It does mean remove the ball joint end as needed then properly replacing the ball joint.


Bernice

As you can see from the picture it was a locating tab failure. I was able to get it slid out and the bushing on the table is a new one for comparison. If I can't get the universal joint loose then I'm definitely going to just reuse the old bushing with some externally applied fastener in the tab holes, probably a very shallow screw.

View attachment 17710

 

[Dr.Jeff]

2011, did a write up on work on this rack. This images are gone

Excellent Bernice. Any chance you can reinstall some pics to go with the writeup? The whole 'lost picture hosting' thing has created a huge annoyance. Appreciate if you (or anyone) can help illustrate this with more images again.

 

[aarpcard]

As you can see from the picture it was a locating tab failure. I was able to get it slid out and the bushing on the table is a new one for comparison. If I can't get the universal joint loose then I'm definitely going to just reuse the old bushing with some externally applied fastener in the tab holes, probably a very shallow screw.

View attachment 17710

If you manage to get the new bushing installed, could you post a picture of it correctly seated?

 

[Dr.Jeff]

Definitely remove old bits before installing the new bushing. I don't think there would be enough room for two.

There is a aftermarket Delrin bushing for the early VW racks. Oddly they recommend just pushing the old one further in, then install the new one. But that's a completely different rack, so no relation here. Plus I'm not sure I agree with that method anyway.

I do agree with Bernice and Courtney, now that you have the rack out it's worth doing the rest of it correctly. Someone suggested a method for removing the inner tie-rod end recently. Likely in the related thread started by you Carl?

 

[carl]

The problem I had last time was I could not remove the ball socket housing (not the steering ball joint that attaches to the wheel hub) end from the rack. I used heat, large tools, much cursing but nothing worked, hence looking for silly solutions. So, tell me how to just remove the ball socket end of the rack so I can slide off the busted bushing and slide on the new bushing. The ball socket is threaded onto the rack with 54 lb/ft of torque. There are flats on the ball socket fitting and that means some big ass open end wrench. Fine, now how do I hold the rack while I apply 54 lb/ft of torque with an open end or pipe wrench on the ball socket housing?

 

[Dr.Jeff]

I haven't done it on a Fiat rack, so can't say for sure. But it sounds like the one you tried before might have been rusted or corroded in place? There is a tool for removing the inner tie rod (I believe that is what you are referring to as the 'ball socket housing'...see pic below). I wonder if that tool would do the trick for you? It might be something you can get from a local parts store as one of those free "loaner" tools?

In your other steering rack thread was this comment from Courtney ("128kid"):
"I remove the rack from the car, then remove the boots & drain fluid. Crank the pinion until enough of the rack teeth are exposed that I can grip it in a vise (with soft jaw covers on the vise). Clamping the "D" section where the teeth are keeps it from spinning when trying to loosen the inner tie rod end, and the jaw covers prevent marring of the rack, and prevents damage to the pinion or rack housing. Unstake the inner tie rod end, grab a big wrench and pop the rod end loose (it can be pretty tight)."

In addition to describing a method to hold the rack still while removing the inner rod end, the comment "unstake the inner tie rod end" makes me wonder if you might have missed this step last time?

 

[aarpcard]

Fine, now how do I hold the rack while I apply 54 lb/ft of torque with an open end or pipe wrench on the ball socket housing?

I'm sure it's not the best solution but this is what worked for me:

I took the rack out of the car, unstaked the ball socket and then had someone hold the rack in place on the floor with a large pair of channel locks (at least 18") and rubber padding so the surface of the rack housing wouldn't get marred. While they were holding it, I put a large adjustable wrench (at least 24") on the flats on the ball socket . . . and jumped on it. Only took a few jumps, but it came loose with no damage. Installation was the reverse process.

 

[carl]

Yes, doc, it's that ball joint. Now I gotta go find these "stakes" I have to undo, I clearly remember not knowing about any staking years ago when I destroyed the steering rack trying to get this ball joint loose.

 

[carl]

Success!

Destaked the nut, pretty obvious where it is.

Put the toothed portion of the rack in the vice, with aluminum angle to protect the teeth. Got my large adjustable wrench and shoved the handle into a long piece of square tubing and leaned into it.

Came loose without too much effort. pulled the old bushing out, and it was more messed up than just busted locating tabs. Will install the new bushing, I guess with a deep socket. What is the current thought on lubing the rack before putting the boots back on, it looks like it had some manner of grease on it.

 

[carl]

Next question, how do you hammer in the new bushing? I got it so the three locating ears are lined up with the three slots using a proper sized deep socket and tapping on it with a hammer.

It's pretty obvious to me that forcing the issue any further will just cause the locating ears to snap off since they are not sliding into the tube, they are just abutting the end of the tube. Do I file a better ramp onto the bushing or file the metal housing at the three entry points to make a ramp? Looks like a pretty stupid design guaranteed to brake off the ears before the bushing is even put into place.

 

[128kid]

Put the toothed portion of the rack in the vice, with aluminum angle to protect the teeth. Got my large adjustable wrench and shoved the handle into a long piece of square tubing and leaned into it.

Perfect! I just took a picture for you but you got it.

To install the bushing, crank the pinion to back the rack end into the housing. It should go in far enough that the bushing can be compressed/deformed and slid into place. Then you can turn the pinion to push the rack through the bushing and install the inner tie rod.

Regarding lube, see the earlier thread:
https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/steering-rack-grease-or-oil.35417/

 

[MikeHynes]

While you're in there Carl... don't forget to check or change the pinion seal. Now's the time, it's cheap and easy.

 

[carl]

OK, seal is in, although I had my doubts when tapping it in. Lube and reassembly. Mike, no leaks anywhere so I'm not inclined to go taking this thing further apart. Boots look great, almost like they had been replaced at some time.

 

[carl]

OK, new seal is in, backed off the rack so it was recessed in the tube, tapped the new bush in while mentally closing my eyes, waiting to see the locating tabs snapped off but it didn't happen. I'll get some moly grease and lube the rack and get this job done. Thank you all for helping, in spite of decades of Fiat play I had never had to do an X steering bush repair, except for the previous failed attempt so that's why I was asking a ton of stupid questions. And when I bought the new bushing I bought two...just in case I screwed up something.

 

[Mechanogeek]

And when I bought the new bushing I bought two...just in case I screwed up something.

I buy MANY extra parts. And extra supplies. And extra tools. One of my many favorite adages: Better to have and not need, than to need and not have.

 

[carl]

That works fine until your basement Fiat parts storage room is totally overflowing. Really, how many X door windows do I need?
At least steering rack bushings don't take up much room but we all know the next time I need one I will have forgotten that I have one.

 

[Dr.Jeff]

Well done Carl!