the saga of the stuborn studs

spiderrey

spiderrey

spiderrey
:mallet:the head is still stuck on the block, believe it or not. i welded the nuts to the studs, but they broke loose. so i grinded dowwn to fresh metal and welded again, one came out. the weld held on the next one , but the stud broke flush with the head. then i accidentally broke one loose. the threads were junk, so i found a different nut to thread on to it so i could reweld. it was difficult to turn this nut on. when it was almost on it broke the stud loose going in, so i just reversed it out. the next one i welded the nut on and turned it in. it broke loose. 2 left, one is flush with the head the other sticks out, but i cant get a nut started. for now it sits filled, the holes with spray and will play with it again tommrow. im begining to wonder if its even worth the effort totaking apart.:headbang:
 
You need...

the head removal tool! Anything else is a waste of time. I once hooked a cherry picker up to a unbolted '77 head and lifted the car with it. The real surprise though, was to see the car in that same lifted position for over 12 hours!!!
The end result was buying the tool from Bayless and having the head extracted in about 10 minutes.
 
You need more than just the cherry picker,

you need to put Coca Cola on the head studs and let it soak (while you apply upward pressure with the cherry picker). Keep reapplying the Coke and the caustic acid in it will eventually loosen up the corrosion on the head studs. Good luck.

Dave
 
It's a small company in New York City and AFAIK they do not have any distribution agreements with the usual bigtime auto parts chain stores. You have to buy by the case and mail order it.

My brother works for one of the industries that they mention on their web site, he has brought a can or two home. It is good stuff but jeez:censored: does it stink!!

EDIT: Hey Reyy, why don't the SoCal guys get together and order a case?
 
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Didn't know..

about the Coca Cola trick:shock:, but I did use about a quart of some penetrating oil,don't remember what brand, but that was 20 years ago.
I did give up :nuts:though until I got the tool, which worked flawlessly!:headbang:
Rolf.
 
The first time I heard of this trick was for removing stuck aluminum seat post from a steel tube bicycle. Never tried it, but this is reported to work. Got to wonder what happens to the inside of a steel bicycle tube is the Coke is not cleaned out.

halojm said:
you need to put Coca Cola on the head studs and let it soak (while you apply upward pressure with the cherry picker). Keep reapplying the Coke and the caustic acid in it will eventually loosen up the corrosion on the head studs. Good luck.

Dave
Click to expand...
 
i TOTALLY agree with this ... get the head puller. you'll wonder why you didnt go that route before.

and

ten minutes is actually a realistic estimate.

jim
'81 X
'02 ducati monster
'73 pinzgauer 710M
'02 hyundai accent
 
Try the rope trick

We had the same trouble a month or so back. Put the #1 and #4 cly at the bottom of the compression stroke. Feed a rope into the cyl thru the spark plug opening until full. Rotate the crank and let the pistons push it off. What worked best for us was a steel line with a plastic cover (found at Menards). It did not compress and coiled perfectly in the cylinder. Thank Thai for that.......
 
Phosphoric acid in coca-cola

Not much - it's less acidic than lemon juice and all the stories about dissolving teeth and bones are urban legends - but enough to turn surface coatings of metal oxides into metal phosphates. I'll be giving this one a try sometime in the next few months.
 
You might want to try using Kroil penetrating oil. It comes in a one gallon can or an aerosol can labeled AeroKroil with an orange label. This stuff is much better than PBblaster at disolving corrosion and was available from Eastwood last I checked as well as some oil suppliers. I've had real good luck with it on brake fittings and steel fuel line fittings on rusty cars and trucks. You could also try warming up the head a bit with a torch and then cooling the studs down with ice cubes from the top or CRC Freeze off. This may help crush some of the corrosion between the head and studs. Good luck.
 
If you're going to stick with...

oil:rolleyes:try JB-80 (justice brothers). Their slogan is "It's twice as good" and I swear if you spray a nut at the edge and wait a few minutes, when you get it off the stud, the stud will be wet. This stuff does penetrate.

P.S. I still say buy the tool. You won't be sorry. Before I got the tool I (for s!*?*'s and giggles) put the manifolds and carb back on and ran it for five minutes with NO nuts! The end result was that the head stayed on:censored:, I was mad, and I gave up and bought the tool. I still say also "head off in ten minutes with the tool.:excited:
Rolf.
 
thanx for all the advice, its soaking with the pb one more time. if that dosent do it ill try one of these suggestions. i dont need to by the tool becauce ill be selling all my x motors and trannies. my cars will have different twin cam set ups. one vtech, one fiat. thanx again.
 
im gonna try and find some kroil or jb 80. my next step if that dosent work will be an air hammer, it will destroy the head.
 
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